lordsnipe

sounds awesome! but i can understand why you'd want to quieten it down.

Hey guys, I've noticed some rust on one of my rear quarter panels. I've taken the car to several panel beaters and have received quotes ranging from around $450 to "budget for around $1K" and a few in between. The $450 quote involves removing the rust and fibreglassing up what is left, painting over etc. The more expensive ones talk about welding in new metal instead of glassing it over. Is there a right or wrong way of doing a job like this? Atleast with glass, it won't rust in the same spot

if you want reliable, don't mod it.

anyone got a brushed aluminium look? anyone know a contact in Perth who does this sort of thing?

Post em up here, I'd like to have a little listen!

JASMA exhaust systems have to pass certain DB requirements don't they? Why does the power getter have a JASMA stamp on it then?

more power you have, more fuel you'll use. this is why mildly modded cars will drink more fuel .. cos they are driven faster. however if you can maintain the same driving habits, the fuel consumption should be better as you are making the same power with less fuel.

Plain and simple, yet effective. I PM'ed the guy cos I wanted to know who made em, they were made with good old electrical tape

going from a N14 Pulsar to a S2 R33, here were some things i found: 4 years age difference, interior build quality is worlds apart. nothing rattles in the R33. There wasn't a lot of back seat room in the N14, and there isn't a lot of back seat room in the R33 either. Although the R33 is a much larger car, the boot and interior space aren't that much better than the N14. The car drives very nicely, doesn't feel like a boat until you park it. Car can become twitchy in the wet. When the tail is out its not too bad to control but when you're least expecting it....

the point of having a turbo is to have the power when we need/want it 95% of the time is off-boost driving.

there should be a stamp on the muffler with atleast a brand.

i got a magnaflow (oval, not cannon) on mine .. got no probs with it. i have a second muffler just after the cat and i think it's too quiet! might take out the second muffler but i'd hate to spend the cash and have it too loud.

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if they're the same weight, same power at the wheels and same torque, then how is one going to be faster than the other? but this is a stupid question anyway as you'll never have a rwd car and awd car the same weight/power/torque. there is an advantage to 4wd. it's when twisties are involved...

unless you have an electronic boost controller which can adjust the bleed on the fly and always maintains a steady boost level.

haha whats the point on whacking a bleed valve and not adjusting it? of course it's not going to spike!

anybody interested? open to offers.

yeah I've made a few bids on the Yahoo Auctions with Zac from slidewize. Have been pipped right at the end of the auction twice. $300 for 32 GTR seats ... where from? pair or just drivers side?

yeah i saw those leather seats too. pfft .. R32 GTR seats are 800+ now dude :-) Trying to source a set of good condition ones. Most have holes etc.

yes, my bad... got confused with evos. but i still like wrx seats, but haven't been on a long drive

Is there any difference between R32 and R33 GTR seats? They look the same, they bolt up the same, the only thing apart from age (and therefore condition) is that the R33 seats have stitching across the middle section. $600 for a set of R33 GTR seats .. I would pay that in a second. Nobody has any, R32 sets are going for 800+ atm.

Hey guys, Thinking of getting some R32/R33 GTR seats. Are they much better than R33 series 2 GTS-t seats? Or should I go for aftermarket? Just looking at pictures compared to my GTS-t seats, they don't look much more supportive. Went for a ride in a few mate's WRX's and the Recaros in them are a dream. Not having sat in a GTR before, I'm not too sure if the GTR seats are like the WRX Recaros. Can anyone shed any light? Cheers

K&N will only affect the AFM if they are too wet. stick to the instructions and you should be fine. even if the AFM gets coated in oil, i hear a bit of carby cleaner works wonders.

being a converted job doesn't necessarily mean it's dodgy. you sure it has no hicas? i was pretty sure all skylines, be it turbs or non turbs had hicas. maybe the cluster was changed for some odd reason .. could be a million things...

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