CameronBNR32

to make sure this is what you are hearing: turn the ignition on let the pumps do their thing until its stops pumping and no more noise turn the ignition off (and within 30 seconds i think it is?) then turn ignition back on = the transfer case pump will not prime, but the fuel pump will. ^^ i hope that makes sense ^^

you are probably hearing the pump for the gearbox transfer case, that is a loud pump which turns on with ignition and goes for around 5-10 seconds. The fuel pump will only do a 2-3 second prime on ignition to get pressure in the rail and can hardly hear it.

awesome thread guys! inspiration to get stuck into mine again and get it up to spec! Good luck in Japan Russ, would be great to watch time attack over there, let alone compete. and now the 32 will be going even quicker! will be good to see it back out there in action.

I buy at the Shell in Runcorn, just down the hill from the Calamvale Hotel heading towards Underwood, its good stuff!

Sounds good, I'll attend if I can get front damper pully and tune in time.

Im not sure on their technical names but maybe you can use the speedflow parts numbers. if your using stainless steel hose use these: http://www.speedflow.com.au/catalogue/hose...0037/index.html or if you are using the rubber 400 series hose use these : http://www.speedflow.com.au/catalogue/hose...s400/index.html if the fitting on your rail is dash 8, then you want a dash 8 hose end

Sorry BOOSTD, I havn't been checking back with this thread as I thought it had died. The injector lag and size value caculation I worked off was in my powerfc user manual. The settings I have in my car at the moment are: Injector- 55% (444/800) Lantency- +0.33 (1.10-0.77 it starts and runs, but runs rich (I'm not sure the reason to running rich is the setting on the new fuel regulator). Cubes- RB20 powerfc on a RB30? wouldn't that be the problem I've got to get my tuned asap, hasnt moved since the thread has been made! I need to stop modifing the dam thing!

That looks really neat, I might relocate mine and make some deflectors, would work alot better...

Is there a rule of thumb to mount the oil cooler below the oil pump? I've noticed most oil coolers are mounted lower than the oil pump in the inner guards. I have mounted mine in front of the radiator, and always wondered if its mounted too high? never had a oil temp problem on the track though...

I've heard there is unleaded avgas out and about now if you can find it.... I was thinking of running it for the next tune... I'm not too sure the stock bov's will handle much past 15psi and may leak.

bump still for sale

Still for sale

***First Post Updated*** :sorcerer:

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Congratulations Mark! Wonder what she will do with the laughing gas hooked up well done

***Rims and Exhaust Sold***

I think he is asking about R32 RB26 vs R33 RB26I've done the conversion, R33 RB26 into R32 GTR, its rather straight foward. only differences I found when installing was -the knock sensor loom has a different plug. (just pull the one off the 32 motor and bolt it on the 33 donk) -the heater hoses at the rear are larger on the 33 than the 32 (I just made a step down inline brass reducer) -Also Use your R32 GTR dash water temp sensor in the 33 motor. ( the 33 sensor didnt register anything on the dash) You will get the stronger oil pump drive coller at least, I think the 33 motor has a little bit more tourqe and hp, thought I'm not sure if its a slighly different cam grind or port desgin? somebody will know... Ecu will work fine on either 33 ecu on 32 motor or 32 ecu on 33 motor too. Hope this helps Cameron

I only change the injectors sizing and drive on that tune so I can drive it to get properly dyno tuned.

It was 0.04 in the powerfc, just a typo by me thanks

I think I will have to make up a new/bigger power steering resivour aswell, I wondered why I had power steering fluid all over the place when I went to the sprints. Could I please see pics of your setup T04GTR?

Nice engine bay! Think I've seen you out at the sprints a couple of times... does that cause any dramas with head pressurization? I always thought the head needed to 'breathe'

Yeah, to be 100% legal I would have to run a pipe back into the valve on the inlet to burn it off. I havn't had any residue deposites around the catch can, so the scourers do their job well. I was thinking of getting a little k&n style filter on the end of it also, but didnt bother as no residue/vapour gets to the exit of the can anyway.

I've been wondering the same thing. Thinking of getting a carbon bonnet for mine. Dry carbon on a black car

Hey, I was in the exact same position you are in now a couple of weeks ago, couldn't find any catch cans that was to my tastes for the RB26..... so I made my own. to me the one that sits on top of the cam covers doesnt do sh#t, has no internal baffles, and is just hollow.. so wtf does it do?!?. the cusco one is abit better,if you fill it with something to slow down/catch the oil vapour, but with a GTR's engine bay, there is no room for it. this is what I made: Just a simple alloy box that sits infront of the battery, with a inlet tube, filled with stainless steel scourers and a hole on the other side, bought a plug to block off the recirculation valve in the head, plugged up the pipe running to the inlet side and ran a length of tube running from the ventalation pipe to the catch can.... some pics of what I made: Oil Catch Can Pic 1 Oil Catch Can Pic 2 Tube Running From Cam Cover All up probably cost me around $60-70 for all materials... hope this helps Cameron

done and done