skyQUEST

any joy with the bov pipe?

pm sent

some further research on this, found some info that indicates 2mS is the required coil charge time.

if you email me the cal file I will check it out for you. lumpy is correct about waste spark, its a good thing, and coils get fried by charge time. but certainly the spark time setting may be wrong as well.

engine: MOTUL 300V 15W-50 + RYCO filter & gearbox: REDLINE MTL

Any more left? Are the barb fittings 1/8NPT thread? Where abouts?

The WOLF can be setup for an external ignition trim, on one of the inputs. If you can arrange for, or have a switched signal, (digital for preferance) that can trigger this event in the WOLF on gear changes, then it should be do-able. The WOLF trim table seems to be able to reduce timing as required for this kind of application, but I have not read of anyone trying it! Alternatively, you could force a momentry change to the air temp sensor reading, by having the gear change 'switch' bridge a resistor across the sensor. Then setup the air temp ignition modifyer table to dump timing on gear changes.

the MAC valve is also recomended by AUTRONIC. They work fine, but Wolf recomend adding a diode across the valve coil, to reduce transients generated by the valve.

Yes, the injector latency (sometimes called void blast off time) can be adjusted. This is part of the issue with the 550cc RX7 injectors, the other is they may not be exactly 550cc/min. Hence, the injector setup parameter may need to be further tweeked for 'best fit'. It may take a few trys but do-able.

For a street car, go with the chip. There is not much that cant be altered. eg. LEVEL 1: speed cut change/eliminate, rev limit change, boost cut change/eliminate. LEVEL 2: fuel map adjustment, ignition map adjustment. LEVEL 3: rpm scale adjustment, load scale adjustment (for higher boost levels). LEVEL 4: injector size re-scaling, AFM re-sizing. Its all do-able, if you can fit an eprom!

EDGE, do you still have the stock airbox and snorkel for sale?

rang up Famous today to ask where was my renewal papers, and was told i was not insured with them! it took 4 phone calls and 2 faxes to convince them i wasnt having a lend of them. however, all sorted out now, but was seriously concerned there for a day. merlin.

on this issue, i think the main worry is whrn to replace the cam belt. if you suspect a wind backed oddo, better to get the belt changed. other than that, things may be all ok.

mine stopped at 50k also. turned out one of the little increment tabs was slightly burred over. my guess is a wound back speedo (yet another one, bastards). it was easy fixed though, just trimmed the burr with a scalpel blade AND replaced the motor (which was stuffed i think because the mechanism was jammed???). dave

famous at $1400 for an R33 at $25k, small mods. call them, it cant hurt, much...

benm, you can get SPEED FLOW braided lines and fittings from STAR PERFORMANCE in Regatta Rd Five Dock. speed flow pricing is a lot less than EARLS, its as good or better than earls, and oz made. go mad with it, but make sure it cant rub on anything. it can be quite abrasive on softer items, like radiators. dave

a couple of Starion driving mates might be interested in coming along, would they be welcom? they usually go to wakefield, but... dave

thats right Steve. also, i have a temperature chamber here in the lab that i can get down to -80 centigrade. i'm wondering how long a pair of rotors would have to left at that temperature to get any increase in hardness, or indeed if it would do anything at all??? dave

question for dbasteve, does cryogenic treatment of rotors make much improvement to disk life? dave

just a short addendum to the part on replacing the filter. yes, do wipe the crap from the filter sealing face, there will be dirt etc there. before fitting the filter, smear some fresh oil on the rubber 0-ring seal. this stops it from binding up as its being tightened. it also means that hand tightening is sufficiant. nice story and workup Sciby, looking foward to the gearbox episode. i hope u r going to use synthetic there as well. also, u might want to try filling the box via a 10mm plastic hose from the engine bay. easier than doing it sideways direct to the filler hole. cheers, skyQUEST