BigDatto

Hi Mashrock, If this is to suit ECR33 I'll take it. Please let me know via PM or in this thread Cheers.

First thing you should change is the fuel pump,fuel filter & injector clean. trust me on this. Far too many RB's get killed from lean-outs after upping the boost w/stock fuel pump. There are many threads about "#x piston/ringland damage after upping boost with stock fuel pump". Just look at Geoff's engine failure thread ! Cheap insurance for future power ups.

Targa Tom is spot on. Pull the black cover off, turn the lights off in your garage, the eyecrometer will tell you everything you need to know. I had the dreaded coil pack issues, turned out to be moisture. Spray them liberally with silicon spray every time you do the plugs. Leave the cover off to prevent them overheating. No troubles in the last 18 months. Standard coils are good for big HP. Only a firebreather needs aftermarket coils.

Bro I bought a Sard reg from Hi Octane racing, supplied as a full kit. The 2 parts that allow it to be mounted directly on the fuel rail were from Earls. I'd suggest you give either a call. Hope that helps you out.

Do you get a nice de-pressurizing "psssht" when you unscrew the fuel filler cap ????? If not: Take the fuel filler neck out of the butyl rubber hose, coat the whole lot generously with fuel resistant Sikaflex, reassemble, let cure & I bet your petrol smell is gone. Compliancers replace them with dodgy units that don't fit - half or more of all nissan imports have "that petrol smell" because of this. There's a few threads on this forum about "that petrol smell". $20 sounds better than $600 or $180

To spice up the deal: FREE 80's vintage sunburst Fender strat air guitar for SAU members only. Used once, A1 condition. Or just make an offer !

No only released in Jap NTSC - but you don't need a chip if your TV supports NTSC. PAL PS2's will play all NTSC games just fine. I've got heaps of NTSC games on a bog stock never-opened Aus ver 5/6 PS2. Something to think about.

Older model, maybe the menu system is the same ?? http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedwa...sbc_manual.html

I'll NEVER replace my old PS2. Where's the hard drive go in the new one ??? Kind of makes HDLoader/HDadvance useless. I have about 40 games that load directly off the HD, in about a third of the load time ! No stress on the laser assembly, which is the key failure in the PSTwo. There is a whole bunch of cool homebrew apps for your "chunky" PS2. Check out www.eurasia.nu the best console hacking source on the www.

You have Z32 AFM's - lucky bugger ! Check my post in DIY section: "save $$$ installing Z32 AFM" Unless you have a powerFC or other management to interpret the signal, they won't be much use. Factory ECU's will freak out.

Check my post in DIY section for suitable plug/loom & Z32 pinouts.

Yes it's the same, although one sticker claims to be a different offset. I measured from the back of the wheel's hub to the inner lip - same as the other three to the millimetre, which is cool because you can rotate them. Your issue will most likely be clearing the bigger Brembo calipers. Not sure :confused:

History of the FJ20. Nissan were on the verge of greenlighting an F1 campaign in the early 80's, when F1 was small displacement engines running ridiculous boost levels. The FJ20 started life as the FJ15, and was designed to cope with power levels approaching 1000bhp, not bad for a 1.5 litre four. Nissan pulled out at the last minute, and with millions of $$ R&D invested in the programme (and tooling), stretched the capacity to two litres & fitted them to DR30 Skylines. So the FJ20 is one VERY serious motor. Yes the SR20 is lighter, but serious horsepower freaks know that the FJ is tha shizzle. Anyone remember Jeff Watsons FJ20 drag Sprite ?

I fixed it with a sharp chisel, cut down spring from a pen & contact cement. 10 minutes - too easy.

Your ECU is running in closed loop, judging by what you describe. Usually caused by no signal from an AFM. Very common on BNR32's. Try swapping them out one at a time for a known good AFM. Then explore other possibilities.

Not quite as nice as yours ! :wassup: Cul8tr - sorry, don't know. You're welcome to a trial fit if you wish.

DO: be prepared for the job to take longer than you think... have a can of silicon spray handy (OK to use with fuel system components) have band aids/first aid kit handy (you WILL cut your hands on the plenum casting dags) have a slim 10mm ring spanner with slight offset. This will clear the rocker cover for the "ultimate bitch" bolt. You'll know which one I mean. have carby cleaner aplenty have some Loctite or similar be aware that there are (6 from memory) black washer type spacers between the rail & head. If you drop one, you might never see it again. have a long extension for your socket. 18" is good. raise the car on stands before you commence. strong lighting is essential. and rags aplenty. Replace all fuel hose w/ proper efi hose & clamps - don't be dodgy & reuse the brittle oldies or regular hose clamps Replace the filter too good idea to saturate & scrub all the carbon & oil from the top half with carby cleaner you'll need to remove a bunch of vac hoses from under the plenum to get your socket on the bolts - pain in the arse. DON'T: use excessive force to remove the injectors - they will be very tight. Lots of silicon spray & gentle tapping helps. let swarf/dust/dirt into anything. over torque the plenum bolts (everything is alloy) This is a royal biatch of a job- but very rewarding. If i had to do it again I could in less than half the time, hope you gain from my experience.

Hi there GTR folks, I have a tasty set of 4 Kakimoto N-GT multi-piece alloys (mfg by SSR) 17x9 to suit BNR32 offset, Gunmetal centres. These rims look stunning on a gunmetal R32. 255 Nankang tyres included. 2 have good tread, 2 have nominal outside shoulder wear. Never-used full set of nuts with hex key included. All legit enquiries welcome. $1800 FIRM. Please post enquiries here, via PM or [email protected] I reckon they look less ricer & much nicer without the centre plate. Hence the 2nd pic. Cheers !

Yep it fits in the bracket with the assistance of cable ties or better, hose clamps. A bit of nitrile rubber sheet around the pump body will keep the noise down, swap the gts pickup for the GTR one, being very careful to not damage the circlips that hold it in place. Also swap the harness over (two screws). If your GTR pump comes with the anti drain-back valve install that too, otherwise you'll need to prime it EVERY time you crank the motor - a real PITA. If this info sounds confusing - don't worry. It will make perfect sense when you have all the bits out of the car. Definitely worth doing as a first mod if you're looking to power up. Overall a very easy job.

Check my thread in the DIY section "Save $$$ installing Z32 AFM" the wiring diagram you asked for is there.

Reduced detonation is a direct result from cleaner combustion chambers. Tin oxide has been used as a fuel additive for years. GI's were issued with powdered tin oxide during WWII so that suspect/contaminated fuel or whatever could be found in the field could be used to power vehicles and equipment. I would be very suspect of any such product that fits in-tank, as any filters or fine mesh will prevent delivery to the combustion chambers. Tin Oxide catalysts must be fitted after all fuel filters, & the fine mesh screens on side-feed injectors must be removed. The biggest benefits in a tuned turbocharged engine ? 1. More ignition advance can be mapped, due to better combustion 2. Emmissions are greatly reduced - to the point where a catalytic converter is not required to meet emission laws under the Kyoto protocol. Take some time to think about the above 2 points. I have used Fuelstar brand catalysts on 3 different vehicles and swear by them. I have no idea about other brands. As for info, the Fuelstar website has a bunch of info including test results from controlled environment testing. To my way of thinking, it makes more sense to treat the cause (fuel) rather than cure the effect (exhaust gases). BTW I am in no way associated with any manufacturer of tin cats or tuning shops etc. Just expressing my experiences to add to the discussion. Attached is an interesting piece from a respected Sydney tuner.

Yeah I agree, Zac is a credit to his profession. Deal with confidence.

part# 531-N005 GT "hybrid" intercooler. Part of an R34GTt kit.

Didja get my PM sed8 ?

This is the A'pex unit Jay referred to earlier. Can't wait to plumb it up !