BigDatto

No signature = no contract. Sounds like purely Gestapo intimidation. Lodge a formal complaint. Be sure to mention his lack of professionalism (ie, no sig). Take it to the highest authority & document everything. I agree with Blitz, driving lights on well lit public roads is asking for trouble & a real nuisance to other drivers. Any blue rice is also asking for it.

"Necessity is the Mother of invention". Glad to help.

OK here's the pics as I described in the PM that I sent you - they basically tell the story. I held them together with some blu-tack. works really well.

Word Up, my Nigga !!

Hi Jive, Let me guess - The white plastic piece went brittle & disintegrated into about 50 pieces ? If that's what happened, It's very easy to fix, at little or no cost. Send me a PM if what I've described above is true.

Check a post of mine from yesterday, in reply to a member, OMRAN who was having the same prob. The test is embarrasingly easy.

Curious. I would be very suspicious about purchasing this part for your Skyline. I looked into this some months ago. B&M seem to think that Skylines were fitted with SR20 four bangers. We know differently. See the attached screenshot from B&M's website. The plot thickens !!

Yep Enzed or Pirtek can make up the lines. When installing a new/replacement turbo the oil feed line should ALWAYS be replaced with a new one. Any warranty will be voided if you don't. Be aware that 9 out of 10 braided lines are illegal for street use, and are an unnecessary expense. Any brake shop can fabricate solid tube lines which will save you $$$. Hope that helps ya !

Hi Omran, You're a lucky one, living in Dubai - how I wish ! Testing coils is so easy - ridiculously easy. simply look at the coils in the dark at idle. You'll see little blue sparks from all of them except the one that's causing problems. You might see a brighter spark - that's your problem coil, shorting out usually due to moisture which is to be expected with extreme temperature drops. Buy some Silicone spray (any auto parts shop) this will fix 9 out of 10 coil issues. Good luck with it, Omran

Find out which of these amps: Has an unregulated power supply Delivers the most current Is stable at lower impedances. The amount of current an amplifier will stably deliver is more important in determining how well it will handle transients & "grip"your speakers than an RMS wattage rating. An unregulated power supply means more current to your speakers ( therefore more headroom for transients) with higher battery voltage. Generally, if an amplifier can deliver more current at lower impedances (2 or better yet 1 ohm) the better. The next most important factor is slew rate (transistor reaction time) lower slew rate is better. Next on the list is THD (total harmonic distortion) expressed as a percentage, lower is better. Channel seperation is next consideration (higher is better). Have I done your head in yet ? :Bang:

Bro if you're using dialup do yourself a favour & ditch Microshite Internet Trawler for Opera. It's a much faster browser with awesome integrated features like... popup control !! no third party software required. It is genuinely faster, I will never go back to IE.

MetalCorp, Bluescope, Onesteel, Smorgon etc,etc,etc. Boj01 is spot on, TIG it for acceptable results. You'll need someone to roll beads into the 'cooler pipes or they'll pop the couplers off. Tips & pointers ? If you need to ask how to weld pipes - Don't do it yourself. Look up "Tube bending" in the yellow pages. DO NOT mention the words "turbo/intercooler/Skyline/import" or you'll get ripped. Guaranteed. Just fax them a sketch, with dimensions & wall thickness & ask for a quote. Make a dummy out of PVC if need be. Specify mandrel bends. Best quote wins. You will be pleasantly surprised how much cheaper tube benders are than exhaust shops whose mentality is "you must have money up the Yin-Yang if you can afford to insure & run THAT". Tube benders mentality is "We make a LOT of handrails & the like, so do our competition. Best price wins the job." Starting to make sense ? This sort of job is just not worth DIY'ing unless you have the skills.

GEAR OIL CAPACITIES ================ RB25DET is 2.8 litres to the drop. I measured it to the mL, squirted it into the box and a single teardrop flowed out the hole. RB25DE is 2.5 litres RB20E is 2.0 litres 4WD RB25DE is 4.1 litres. DIFF OIL CAPACITIES =============== RB20E non LSD is 1.0 litres Active LSD is 1.6 litres All other R33 2WD types are 1.3 litres (90% of ECR33 diffs) Non GTR 4WD types: front is 1.0 litres, rear is 1.3 litres. ======================================= AUTO TRANS CAPACITIES ================== 5 speed is 8.5 litres 4 SPD 2WD: RB20E is 7.9 litres; RB25DET is 8.3 litres 4 SPD 4WD: RB25DE is 8.3 litres ======================= Hope that provides some clarity !

Slightly lower pressure drop (R33)- therefore less pressure differential between compressor outlet & plenum. Ummmkay ?

jvs007 - yes, completely normal. Esp when trying to 'creep' as in inching along. Dave - tricky at first, you will stall it plenty. Then you get used to it & never look back.

A week ago I filled up with Motul 8100 X-cess. Claims to be a full ester synthetic (tho doesnt have that plastic smell a la Neo/Amsoil/Fuchs GT1). 5w-40, No more lifter noise, very smooth at idle, at around $60 for 5L I am very impressed. Hope that helps ya !

There is a JDM only PS2 Initial D game as well. Has anyone played this ?

Serck, Earls, Setrab, Perma-Cool, Oxford coolers are all good brands, proven in NASCAR, WRC, F1 etc. Don't get ripped paying ridiculous $$$ for Jap brand name coolers. Be sure to fit a mechanical thermostat, or your oil will take ages to get up to temp, doing more damage than good. Braided lines are a waste of $$ and illegal (if not ADR'ed). The sandwich plate you can get from Lynx for AUD$59. Ford & Chrysler use the same 1/4"x 16 thread as RB's. It can be tapped to accept gauge sensors for next-to-nothing. All up about $400-500 for all new parts. Ummmkay ?

Hi Billy, If you want to go fast & save your gearbox & clutch, your question should be "What is heel & toeing ?"

Interesting thread. I have had my finger on this pulse for some time now. Before this old thread was dug up, I found out about Cosmo injectors here. http://www.nissansilvia.co.nz/tech/howtous...0Binjectors.htm All the lowdown you guys are seeking !

AFI in Lidcombe are good & their pricing is keen. Did my side feed JECS injectors for a better price than anyone else. They trashed one in the process of removing it from the rail, but replaced it without question or query as indeed they should. Other members here have good reports on AFI as well. Hope that helps out.

Yup, there's no shortage of old timers in Skylines. Because you're only as old as the woman you feel, & my girl makes me feel younger without the tosspot pretension of a roadster/convertible (not that old yet !) - plus it's different, but not that different that you're outcast, and just...well, better ! /end of "back in my day, Sonny" rant/

Yes.

If you were in my state I could help you out, Bro. My factory ecu is gathering dust in a desk drawer - not that it helps you much. Bump for your thread. Hope it's an easy fix for you, Andrew

The ECR33 computer has a fault code for itself, ie "ECU error". Not very likely to be a faulty ECU if it's not flashing that code. Ummmkay ?