BigDatto

Try a lower spark gap - .76 works for me where .80 wouldn't. I've had coil issues too, believe me you will know about that if it happens !

1. Buy a used engine off these forums (MattR has a couple at the right price). 2. install a GTR / Bosch fuel pump 3. Replace fuel filter & plugs at the correct g a p 4. Get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned 5. Get aftermarket engine management 6.Get it tuned by a pro, on a dyno !!! If it's a stock turbo it won't live very long at 1 bar pressure. Expect it to throw the exhaust wheel into the cat, destroying it, and potentially being spat back into a valve and.... why am I so unlucky....... engine #4... Educate yourself about your particular vehicle. Then you can modify it -effectively- that's the whole point of these forums. Stock RB25's just won't take sustained detonation. End of story.

Making a good CAI partition is easy if you have the know how, and the key to success is profiling it to the bonnet and feeding as much ambient low pressure air to it. To make a template for ANY car Use regular packing carton cardboard (3 layer is good) & scissors to make a rough template. (more can always be cut/taped back on to perfect it). once you've got your shape right, cut out your holes for AFM, pipes/cable etc stick brads or short lengths of wire into the top edge of the partition(i.e the cardboard "sandwich" construction holds em in place.) Close the bonnet - open the bonnet. Voila ! you have profiled the bonnet. Now make a template from this & play connect the dots. subtract 5mm or more from the bonnet edge. Use tin snips or metal shears to cut your crazy ass shape. Clark Rubber sell all sorts of edgings for sheet alloy. For the top i prefer 3/8" pipe lagging. It's cheap $2-3, closed cell & moulds perfectly to the underbonnet. A bit tricky to describe without pics but the principle is the same as that executive toy with all the metal pins that would profile a face or other 3D object. Very popular some years ago. Seriously I have done this for 3 different cars now and the results are awesome. In a Skyline: use the factory snorkel - it's bloody good; remove the rubber flaps from the headlight harness & the rubber strip that seals the bonnet against the headlight. If you can use one of the I/C piping holes, even better. You don't need to ram air in there, just make it easier to breathe lots of cool air I'll try to find some pics... hope this helps out.

Ooops... forgot to mention if one looks noticeably more intense, it's very likely shorting from the plates due to moisture. I believe that many perfectly OK coil packs get tossed just because of this.

This is real easy. sorry I hadn't seen your thread earlier. 1. Remove the cover to expose the coils 2. With engine running, look (the first word I learned) at night/in the dark. You can quite distinctly make out the little blue arcs from the coils. RB coilpacks are gooood & strong seems almost too simple, eh? I've had issues with coil packs too. Turned out to be nothing more than moisture, but the symptoms aren't that obvious at a glance. Invest in a can of silicon spray, & some easy labour & they generally won't trouble you. Good luck with it.

Hi Matt, I know it's a bit late (old post) but if you still have a bottom end available I may be very interested (subject to leak down test results later this week). PS I enjoyed your feature story in HPI. Sad what happened but I'm glad you've a new project underway. All the best.

I did a Z32 AFM into ECR33 recently using a VL commonwhore afm harness. Now I know that's not what you've got, but this may help.

No, the E-manage will not hack it. For the HP you are chasing you will need bigger capacity injectors. E-manage doesn't support this. For what you want, Power FC, Microtech or Wolf are popular choices. Piggybacks & sensor benders rely on the factory ECU which has limitations. A fully programmable standalone is what you need. Your budget is very optimistic. that ecu will cost you say minimum $1200 (used price) Tuning & AFM/MAP sensor $600 Injectors say $1200-2000+ if you're lucky enough to find bigass injectors to suit the Neo (R33 RB25 injectors are different and far more common) Brakes & supension will need upgrading to make it tractable at that sort of power. $2000+ Fuel pump of course $300 Forged & balanced internals + gaskets/bearings etc. if you expect it to last beyond a week $2000+ A Twin plate clutch $1200 (used price). Labour (unless you can do it all yourself) $2000+ There's 10 large - before you have a turbo, manifold, wastegate, front exhaust section & new undies. you CAN get a complete RB26 for $6000. The GT-t gearbox has the same tough internals as the GTR. ECU's are cheap as. I would recommend consulting a specialist workshop & telling them exactly how you wish to use the vehicle. circuit/drag/motorkhana/street/or a bit of any or all. You'll still need to budget for suspension & braking mods of course, and you'll want to rebuild the turbos with inconel wheels (a la nismo) but a lot less dicking around altogether, & you might be able to afford those new undies... mmmkay ??

Don't know about any websites, but the biggest advantage of multi-piece rims is manufacturing costs. One centre of a fixed diameter can be fitted to almost any offset. This is why companies like SSR, Kakimoto (mfg by SSR) and Simmons can offer one wheel style to suit virtually any car. Simmons can make a one-off set of wheels for whatever you like, without requiring heaps of tooling or warehousing. According to Newton's Law, every action has an equal & opposite reaction. Multi piece rims are dented at the perimeter easily & can have leakage issues. I have witnessed both first hand, & it's not uncommon. One piece forged wheels are generally lighter & stronger. mmmmkay ??

Provided the tyres are in good nick internally, shouldn't cause any grief, unless more than a few tablespoons. Air compressors have water in them anyway and it's not uncommon for this to end up in the tyres if the compressor isn't drained frequently. When I was young (grabs pipe & slippers) draining water from the compressor was a daily chore in my menial job. Fitting & stripping tyres was another menial task. Not uncommon to find water in tyres, I saw it everyday. If water gets to the steel belts THEN you're in trouble. They rust, and tread seperation is inevitable, but I've only seen this on retreads & recaps. Hope that helps some...

Hallelujah Brother, awesome words of wisdom. Should chisel that into a stone tablet.

Michelin SX-GT or whatever the current equivalent is. they're quiet, sticky & ultra-predictable in all conditions wet & dry, awesome stopping as well. last time I bought (about 2 yrs ago) the best price I could find was $330 each. I ran 3 other (directional) tyres on the same car, nothing even came close to them in the "hair on the back of the neck" factor, and they were the factory fitment. For once a manufacturer got it right ! Worth every cent if you value precision handling !

If cooled too rapidly they will become brittle & prone to cracking. Most springs & swaybars are cooled in oil s-l-o-w-l-y to prevent this. My last car snapped 2 factory sway bars before the whiteline boys knocked up a bulletproof one for me. Don't know about resetting coil springs - sounds a little band-aid.

That's some very cool info - thankyou. I'm chasing a reliable 220-230@ the treads on an RB25, which is soon to get the Skylinegeoff rebuild, in accordance with Jedi Master Sydneykid's prophecy for a club/streeter that won't terrify the neighbours and the missus can drive. So I reckons this turbo should be the mutt's nuts for response & squirt on 2.5L with the .64A/R turbine. Steve didn't your GT3037S have the same housing ?? Where did it run out of puff ?? I'll post some findings when it comes together.

Anyone dealt with this company ? They're a 3rd party broker for Yahoo! JDM auctions. There are a lot, nee shitloads of Jap performance goodies there. the HKS car parts section was 87 pages with avg 20 items per page. 1740* items !! My life will not be complete without a "let's beer super robot walker" http://www.rinkya.com/ it will start to make sense. *now at 1993 items.

Unless you have a GT2535 and can't read/speak nihongo.

Cool ! You kicked that one squaw in the nootz !:kick:

Hi USRB, Did you check this thread ? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=22535 Maybe your tacho is drawing too much voltage/current. I have no first-hand experience, but drawing 12v from an 8v rail could explain the carbon & freon smells from your ECU. hope you sort it soon !

Guess I'll just have to suck it and see when it's fitted... Thanks for your input guys.

Hi everybody, Are there any gurus here who can tell me the peak efficiency band of this particular unit ?? Steve, I'm told you have an honorary Degree from HKS University for voluntary community services ?? On the HKS site they rate all GT25xx's power outputs at 1 bar. It's widely known that HKS compressor trims are more efficient at higher boost pressures. But I can't find diddly on this one any help is sweet goodness !!

Hi Screamer, Sorry not much interested in the Blitz, but I have some useful info: talk to the boys at Autostyle in Hurstville for your R32 headlights. and free bump for ya !

OK OK - it sounds a bit silly quoting myself, BUT...I didn't see ne1 else putting their hands up, Blade. My original offer, as above stands. look forward to your reply.

Thanks Croat, please mail to: [email protected] - pics would be great.

Croat, Bro... you are THE MAN !! black is exactly what I'm looking for. Promise you'll save it 4 me !! I'll give you a deposit to secure it if you like. How about 100 legend points in your account as a start ? Shane: Much respect to you - for taking the time to read my post . If Croat decides to keep his M spec we'll do business. or 'nazdrovya' (spelling)!!