BigDatto

I have used "top engine cleaner" but the stuff I used was made by Holden & is available thru Holden dealers. The idea is to rev the motor, then dump the stuff in until it stalls !! sounds pretty harsh eh ? The car will then blow plumes of white smoke - and I mean PLUMES of white smoke, for a good 1/2 hour or so after restarting the motor. It dissolves carbon deposits in the cyl head & piston crowns. Made a noticeable difference in 20 Y.O L20B Nissan four. I'd rather fit a tin-oxide fuel catalyst to keep the carbon nasties away - That way you won't have the EPA chasing you (those plumes of white smoke leave a trail for 100m or so !)

Gunmetal has the right idea and I second his post re: .74mm gap with stock ECU on upped boost. check this thread, I just went thru the same BS and sorted it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...5648#post555648 wishing you a speedy recovery !

What did you set the plug gap to, Waz ?

Yup, adam's spot on. it'll sound like a WRX just off idle & runs about as bad as an engine can without stalling ! Swapping the pos of the coils on the alloy mount... well I'm dead certain the moisture was between the coil & mount and that by simply removing/inspecting/cleaning/silicone spraying/replacing (with sighted good ones) the known faulty ones came good !! Also I eyeballed the sus coils arcing (up to 12mm !!) to the alloy mount from their bases which was a bit of a giveaway. I reckon seeing is believing, & there's been a lot of threads about coil pack testing involving swapping coils and tossing the failing ones. So how many perfectly good ones get tossed !! Using the "Crank & Eyeball" test, if the coil is good you should see a spark, but NOT necessarily at the plug electrode ! If no spark do the GraemeW test. Many have questioned the validity of this test, but if it fails it's well & truly dead. I know from searching these forums that other members coils' have passed the resistance test but got binned anyway, consequently the rumour exists that this test is unreliable - methinks not !! P.S. I gapped the plugs to .75mm and no more miss under load @4500rpm above 8-9 PSI with stock ECU. Jay95 posted about this in another thread & I give it the full thumbs up.. gap 'em down with confidence. Oh, and the car runs better than it ever has on higher boost too !! The PFC on my desk goes in soon, so I'm looking forward to more mayhem ! Hope I save someone some headf%ck !

Problem solved ! Checked the spark "oldskool" - laying the coil assembly on its side with an old set of plugs. gave it a crank & identified two that weren't firing. I then swapped the location of the suspect coils ( to rule out the possibility of loom or ECU being at fault). Then the sight of six little blue sparks:D:cool: What I learned was that by doing this diagnosis first the offending coil(s) can be identified and isolated in very little time, and also that the coils appear to be verrrry sensitive. Hope this info saves someone some time & headache...

doing at right now!!! thanks for the support........

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=GTR+fuel+pump is a good place to start

As topic states: losing cylinder(s) when parked outside in the current Sydney weather for 6 hours on an otherwise stock ECR33. after a while (quite a while) & some heat it comes good. The plugs are newish and the Datto has never missed a beat. Are S1 RB25's prone to this ?? has anyone else experienced this ?? It's kinda spooked me... Any help would be greatly appreciated:D Cheers

Use the search Bro I searched this exact same topic yesterday. There's some cool threads with pics & how-tos you'll be fine

10-4 Airzone. The factory fitted restrictor 'slows' airflow to the wastegate actuator, reducing wastegate creep and helping the turbo to spool up faster, what it doesn't do is increase boost. It does (in my case anyhow) appear to prevent overfuelling. Maybe someone with expertise in this field could explain the physics of it. I posted this finding in the hope it might help others with similar issues, and those who are sick to death of pulling out spark plugs & gapping them down another poofteenth of a bee's dick !! ( & haven't we all been down THAT road...).

Hi Y'all, I recently installed a blitz EBC (thx FAT32) and a larger intercooler (thx Amadeo) and all was good - until I wound the boost up to 9psi. As soon as the tacho hit 4500rpm, cough, cough - hmmm sounds like overfuelling. Fast forward two weeks, I'm cleaning out the garage thinking "yeah, I should keep that tee piece left over from the EBC installation, one day I'll need it - hello what's this little brass restrictor in the vac hose ??". I re-fitted the brass restrictor just b4 the W/G actuator and no more cough/misfire. No noticeable change to wastegate creep either !! So if anyone else has experienced the same when upping boost, keep that tiny brass restrictor - It's worth its weight in gold ! I hope this info helps

One word springs to mind, rev. KazaA !! just a passing thought....

Yeah Krys, jo34 has got it right. get it breathing (panel filter, extractors, exhaust) a good 5 or 10W synthetic oil and some ECU tweaking to adjust A/F ratios & ignition advance. I would do the mods in that order. If you want more responsiveness from the RB you could then look at a lightweight flywheel. If you're still hungry for power crack open the engine & replace the cams for a more aggressive profile,head porting,higher comp ratio. (this sort of work definitely requires programmable management). I would love to see a kikass 31 packing a barking, lumpy, high comp RB25 - I reckon it would sound awesome & scare the shit out of unsuspecting people ahhh... so much fun.

Ahhhh, that's the alarming clunking sound ! :nowigetit The LPG tank is 6" behind the seat...:uhh: no book of revelations here ! hopefully the Police/RTA will continue to target cabs, IMHO as a category of road user they by far the most dangerous on Sydney roads and present a greater hazard than any other including performance enthusiasts, who DONT mind spending money on their rides because they own those rides & DO give a shit. OK, Ok... in with hate, out with love... ahhh I feel much better now, 71 of the performance enthusiasts Antichrist are in purgatory & that's a good thing.

It's definitely aftermarket, 'cos the Jap who installed it didn't scrape off all the mylar, & just twisted bare wires together & wrapped a bit of masking tape around the whole lot....dodgey !!

I've got the blue/green ricey "SKYLINE" on my 33. I had the car for two weeks before someone else pointed it out !! You gotta scrape the mylar foil off the lettering (ie remove the panel) light goes in behind, wired to GND and switched thru taillights, hey presto you're the son of rajab Of The Rice ( one rice to rule them all). Personally I reckon it would be quite a mission, but I guess it looks cool enuff to some folks to warrant the effort. hope this helps.

Tony, you mean none were defected for offensive kebab/body odours ?? or for believing "english" is a yellow paste that burns the nostrils ?? As for mechanical defects, has anyone caught a Sydney cab (falcon) that didn't make chronic & alarming clunking noises from the nearside front ?? Like 7 lawyers at the bottom of the ocean, 71 defects is a good start, but I'll bet a cabbies interpretation of clearing a defect is to scrape the sticker off !!

Hi Mark, was the unit you were quoted on a new item or a repack ? Only reason I ask is that unless you mention the word "repack" you might be getting quoted a higher price than they can offer. Just out of curiosity....

If you want a better deal than retailers can offer, go straight to the importer. www.hagemeyer.com.au will have the contact details for Hagemeyer Australia - agents for JVC. They sell "repacks" which are mainly last years stock (still new) at silly, silly prices. Give them a call & you'll see what I mean.

Yes Yes YES I lurrrve this game. Esp when you apply the D3D patch it looks AWESOME. BTW there are a squillion "home brew" tracks out there inc. Bathurst, Oran Park, Adelaide, Albert Park etc, etc, etc. The Coolest track i've seen is Ridgehill Raceway. I love the realistic dynamics of this game, much like Gran Turismo and yes it's a biatch w/out a steering wheel !!

You could rebuild your current clutch - say $300+ labour then do it all again in 9 months say $300-$350 + labour ( TVM & inflation) or go a twin plate & be happy for much longer... meaning the initial higher cost will pay dividends over time. Don't overlook the 2nd hand market if shopping for a twin - there are bargains to be had at parts joints & in these forums. hope that makes sense !! BTW these are Sydney prices - I bet you could do better !!.

& keep well away from the green HKS filters. They only filter insects & birds:D

www.alltrac.net/manuals should help out. Cheers & good luck

morboost, Check your PM. Cheers

It can only be tuned with an HKS notebook... BD4's or Silverwater Auto Services in Sydney can do it. Perhaps either could advise of someone in ACT who could help.