Matty T

It was a while ago, but I think I mounted the 180B booster (and spacer) to the factory firewall mount. Here is a pic of it as it is today. Edit: Sorry about the crappy pic.

I don't know if this helps you at all, but I used a Datsun 180B booster on my DR (and a 15/16" master cylinder). The booster is a much smaller diameter than the original. Where are you looking for clearance?

Did you see this thread? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430712-dr30-gear-for-sale/

I am looking for an RB20 gearbox. Specifically, I am after the gear set - the case is not important. I would prefer one in good condition, but will still consider one with worn synchros. Prefer one in ACT, but will travel for the right box. Let me know what you have. Thanks. Post, PM, email, call or text O4O2 996688

I am looking for an RB20 gearbox. Specifically, I am after the gear set - the case is not important. I would prefer one in good condition, but will still consider one with worn synchros. Prefer one in ACT, but will travel for the right box. Let me know what you have. Thanks. Post, PM, email, call or text O4O2 996688

I have both sets. NA is 5025 and Turbo is 5178. I got them through CAMS. Are you after an entire copy, or are you looking for something in them? HomologatedForms-SortedByMake&Model.pdf

Whereabouts are you DeRuX? You should be able to get an equivalent one locally.

Yeah, you want the fans to run off the post-cooled (ie. bottom tank) water temp. The aim is to keep the water entering the engine at a consistent temperature. Running the fans off the pre-cooled water temp does not take into account the thermal efficiency of the radiator. To take it a step further, the thermo switch should be mated to the thermostat being used. That way, the water flows (cools) when it reaches a certain minimum temp, and the cooling is boosted when it reaches a maximum temp. If I remember correctly, I am using an 82 degree thermostat, and a 90/85 degree thermo switch (with a manual dash-mounted override switch). This is in my DR30 rally car, which uses the factory radiator. In 26 events, it has never had an overheating issue. Actually, I lie. It did once, and that was when the thermo switch failed. Hence the Tridon replacement. Fortunately I caught it in time and saved the engine.

Mine sits just under half as well. IIRC, the top sensor is for the "low water" light on the dash. The fans run off the sensor in the bottom tank. My sensor failed at one point, and I got a Tridon replacement from AutoPro. It cost about $16 at the time (which was a few years ago now). http://www.tridon.co...35&G=483&P=2014 Edit: replace your thermostat as well. Just to be sure.

Not to a C210, but I have in my R30. I put a pair of Sparco (bottom mount) seats in. I just made up a steel frame which bolts to the rails, and some strap which goes across the frame where the seat mounts are. Seats are 7 kg each (IIRC), and once you add the rails/frames, probably end up around the 10 or 11 kg mark.

Yep, that's pretty much what I found. The 4 spot calipers just stick out too much, so spacers need to be used. I ended up using the 280mm disc and Nissan Stagea 2 piston sliding calipers which, again, all bolt up. No clearance issues and no spacers required. The Stagea caliper is large and iron, so weighs about the same as a small planet. Pads are the largest I have ever seen in a "normal" road car. I had some SBS Dual Carbon pads cut for them (which are no good for the street, but phenomenal when they have some heat in them). Rears are VT Commodore rear calipers on 290mm x 18mm vented discs. SBS pads as well. I have put 296mm front discs on my 180B, with VT Commodore twin piston calipers. 15" wheels fit nicely. Having said that, it is a very custom setup, and not one for the faint-of-heart...

Hey, before I go off about non-faded - has anyone got a picture of some faded ones? I mean, mine don't look brand new (why would they), but the red is still red and the yellow is still yellow. Interesting offer D-limo! I'll give that some serious cons... no.

I think I had better take my near-perfect, non-cracked, non-faded hotplates off the rally car then! Problem is, what's the point in having them if you aren't going to use them (or to keep as spares)...

In addition to what Dennis (correctly) said, the piston is 10mm (IIRC) larger - ~45mm vs. ~35mm. You will also find these brakes on the rear of a Z31 300ZX. The 1982 R30 Skyline came with rear drums. You can remove the drums and make your own rear caliper mounts, utilising the original drum mount bolt holes. Just the same way as people mount discs to the rear of a 1600/180B/240K etc. The only problem is finding those trailing arms, and then finding a spare pair...

And if anyone wants a full set of inferior (in my opinion), but still adjustable, Nolathane ones, let me know.

Oh yeah, be prepared for some grief though. The original bushes are a pain in the bum to remove. It's easiest to burn them out with an oxy. But you have to get the metal outer sleeve out as well. This requires either, a) patience with a hacksaw blade (you don't want to score the bush housing), or b) use of a press. Worth the effort though.

I use eccentric bushes in the rear of my DR30 rally car. They are made by K-MAC - part number 540526. About $350 last time I checked. They are the same part number as the bushes for 1600s and 180Bs. Fit perfectly. They come as a set of 4 bushes, but I would recommend only using 2 of them - one in each arm. Otherwise, you will have a bugger of a time with wheel alignments. If your car has been lowered, then yes, every little bit of camber adjustment helps, but the real benefits are in adjusting the rear toe issue. Edit: $320. Linky here: http://www.k-mac.com.au/Kmac_catalog.pdf

Ah, poop. Wish I'd known about this. I would have brought along the DR30 rally car. Not really a "show car" per se, but would have been good to get it on the dyno again. Hey MAG86, what injectors are you looking for?

I don't think your mate looked too hard, then. The factory spring rate was only about 90 lbs or so. You can buy a pair of King springs in the rate of your choice, and I'm talking about 1000+ lb. S13 stuff isn't going to make it any better. You will still need an appropriate spring and dampers that are up to the task. My rally car has 175 lb rear springs and Bilstein dampers. I'm in the process of getting softer springs because mine doesn't squat enough. In answer to your question, I believe that is the case, yes. Though the coilovers are shorter, IIRC.

I'll part with it. No probs. Cheers, Matt

Dennis, I have a couple of Series 1 dashes. What are you planning on doing with it? Putting your own gauges in it, or replacing the fascia? P.S. Sorry about the super-bad photos. The camera in my phone is absolutely deplorable...

Dennis, you may want to look into a Sparco Evo XL (aka Evo 3) seat. They are 2.5 inches wider than a normal Sparco. Either that, or a RaceTech seat (the "W" is a wide seat). Both suit the "fuller" driver... BTW, I just may have what you are looking for. I'll let you know.

Sorted. Thanks all.

Not even. Just the bearing retaining plate that bolts on inside the bellhousing (5 bolts). The input shaft comes out of it. Anyone?

As the title says - I am in desperate need of a gearbox front bearing cover for an RB20/RB30/S13. You know, the one that houses the gearbox front bearings, has the clutch pivot on it, and that the clutch throwout bearing slides on. I'm Southside, but have no problems getting to most corners of Canberra. Let me know what you have. PM, Email or phone/txt 0402 996688