Matty T

If that is the case, the MR and the DR trailing arms are the same. Hopefully, Adam will do a little measuring and we can put this puppy to bed.

Even if they aren't, you can get pads cut to size for about $20. Any place that sells performance brake pads should be able to line it up for you. Just take in your old backing plate for them to use as a template. Did you end up sussing out whether the DR arms are the same as MR ones? Measure the distance from the bearing housing to the centre of one of the caliper mount holes. Take a picture of it too if you can. Either post it up here or email it to me. We'll sort this out once and for all...

Nor I. I have tried and tried - emails, PMs, carrier pigeons, you name it. He asked me to make an offer as well. Like you, no reply. It is frustrating, as the strut brace that he has is exactly the one I am after...

I have the supplement, and it has the R200 in it, but still no mention of the L20ET or the FJ20. I think that is because they were JDM only, and never exported. The only R30 manuals that come out with that information in them is in Japanese.

datsqik, Hmmm, could I possibly interest you in a 3.7 that is already locked? What about a locked 4.4? Or perhaps both, if you were willing to part with one of those 4.4 LSDs that you have... P.S. Ghostrider - sorry about the thread hijack!

Mass can be calculated given MAP, air temp, and cylinder capacity. Sure, it is calculated, but that is where your tuner earns his / her money. I have just (as in yesterday) put a Megasquirt on my NA FJ20 in my DR30 RS. I used the factory wiring for everything but the TPS and MAT sensor. I wanted to use the factory wiring so that I could unplug the Megasquirt and plug in the factory ECU (with the re-install of the MAF and original throttle switch). It is literally a 5 minute switch over job. Once I put a diff back in the car, basic tuning will begin. Fine tuning will be done on the rolling road, so while I am there I will plug the original ECU back in. Needless to say, the results should be interesting! I have a plan to slap a turbo on the side of the NA block at Xmas, so having an ECU that would cater for all possibilities was important. Cost was also important. All up, the Megasquirt cost me about $450, including sensors.

Obviously Stu doesn't have the 733T hax0r skillz like Yours Truly. http://nkondo-web.hp.infoseek.co.jp/kameari_Transmission.htm It is a brand-new transmission feast!!! A bit exxy, but you get what you pay for. Oh, and they do not ship internationally...

Exactly. Understood completely. You got it in one. 4.375 on the left, 3.7 on the right. Hey, if anyone out there has a 4.875 or 5.1 lying around, I would be most interested to hear from you...

For everyone's enjoyment, I thought I would show some photos I just took in my shed. I happen to have a 10mm and 12mm (longnose) R200 handy... A shot of the subject at hand. 12mm bolts on the left, 10mm on the right: Note the difference in crownwheel thickness: Another shot of the crownwheel difference:

It isn't an issue drilling out the centre's holes, but it can be more of an issue going back the other way (ie. sleeving the 12 mm centre holes for your 10mm crownwheel - like Stagefumer11 might need to do). The crownwheel may not locate on the bolts, but they help the crownwheel maintain friction on the centre. When the diff gets abused, they sure can be in the line for some punishment! I have seen these bolts sheared off more than once...

Yeah, the thing is, "most" of the (long nose) R200 diffs that are in Australia now came out of Zeds. Of all the Zeds, only the Z31 300ZX Turbo came with an LSD from the factory. On top of all that, you have the 10mm / 12mm crownwheel bolt hole issue...

What are the "old style axles" to which you refer? Do you mean 1600 axles, or the 280ZX axles?

Yeah, mine is an NA FJ as well. Genuine DR30 RS. I can't wait until Xmas, when I put the snail on the side. CAMS won't let me use anything other than the factory turbo, so if anyone has any hints on how to make good torque with the factory setup and a NA engine, I'm all ears. Oh, and the sound is glorious! My car has no sound deadener, no interior, no parcel shelf, no rear seats - nothing. It is just one big echo chamber for that exhaust note. With a helmet on, it is bliss. Without a helmet on, your ears bleed. I have never driven a DR with a turbo, so I have nothing to compare it to. Can't wait though...

You have mail... B)

I am looking for a strut brace for my DR30 - does anyone know where I may get one? Preferably, I want an adjustable one which uses all three strut top bolts. Alternately, does anyone have one that they want to sell? I am getting kinda desperate as I am competing in a week...

I bought a DR30 RS dash through Slidewize Imports and everything went exactly as planned. It turned up a little earlier than expected as well!

I'll also be on the freeway north at some ungodly hour on Sunday. Don't know if I'll drive it or trailer it, but the Dirty 30 will be there, warts and all. It is more about the show than the shine, isn't it? I hope so...

Ebay is your friend... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...=ADME:B:SS:AU:1

It sounds like the metal line that runs under the car may be pinched / blocked. Have a careful look at the condition of the line, from fuel pump to fuel filter. There may be some metal shields in the way - remove them. Spend the 5 minutes to do this properly. What you would be looking for is any sign that the metal line has been crimped (from a rock, jack or the like). All looks good? Disconnect the hose from the fuel pump and disconnect the fuel filter and blow through the pipe from the engine bay end. First, fuel should run out of the line of its own accord. Blow through the line from the engine bay end, just to be sure. There shouldn't be resistance. If it feels like you are blowing up a balloon, you have your answer. Oh, and it would probably be the reason that you old pump karked it too...

What SteveL said. The R31 arms are shorter as well. I will be going down the "modify-the-control-arm" path very shortly. Seeing as it is for my rally car, there will be a bit of cutting, shutting, plating and reinforcing going on there... Discopotato03, if you have no joy in finding any control arms, I'll see if I can find some newbies for you. I only just got a new pair about 3 weeks ago. Cheers, Matty T

Yes, it is quite expensive. I was quoted $135 each (plus GST). I ended up getting them for $99 each. A bit of a bugger, because I will be going through them a fair bit - my DR30 is a rally car. My first run in it is on Sunday at Bega. Woohoo! Perhaps you could send me a box of them with "Happy Birthday!" written on the outside (stupid import taxes)...

The wheels aren't the same as the 200B Aspen. This I know for a fact. I have never been able to find another wheel like it. I think I will just have them powdercoated and use them on my Datsun Sunny Excellent... Yeah, I knew it was a 211, but people at AutoProBarn and the like stare at you blankly when you talk about a 211! The most expensive Nissan, not to mention one of the hardest to find bits for! My once-girlfriend clipped the back of a Camry with the right front corner of the car one night. It took me 2 months to find a new headlight. I should have dumped her then and there, but I ended up marrying her... A year later, some useless POS smashed a headlight with a stick (along with the lights of several other cars) - this time it took 9 months to find a replacement.

Hello All, When I saw this thread, I felt I just had to post. I owned probably one of the nicest examples of a C210 in Australia for many years. It was in near-immaculate condition and was one of the nicest cars I have ever owned. Pic attached. It was interesting to see the list of options available, as I think it has solved a mystery of mine. I have a set of 14" wheels which I have never been able to source their origin. They are definitely Nissan wheels (it is cast into them) and look like 200B SX wheels, but they aren't. I now think that they are off a C211 Turbo. Pic attached of them as well. I now own a DR30 RS 4 door, which is my rally car. Will post some pics soon! Good to see people still sharing the Olde Skyline Lurve!