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Afternoon all, Posting for others in case they run into the same issue. Problem: R33 GTR running Nistune ECU - cold start was not a problem, once warmed car would struggle to start again if you turned it off. Sometimes with throttle. Symptoms: Cold start was fine. Warm start once at temp was not. We let it cool down + had a battery booster pack (was low due to trying to start) and it started. Actions taken: Replaced CAS as had a rough idle when at lights + started once it was cooled down. Adjusted base timing (removing TPS). Did not resolve the issue. Looked at Nistune and saw that battery voltage was dropping to 7- 8.5v when trying to warm start. Replaced with Supercharge Gold Plus MF55B24L battery ($160 from Autobarn wih 40 month warranty) which has a CCA of 490 - you just have to unbolt the rear strut and move it out of the way. Note that the battery is too tall, so factory brace won't reach. Post battery replacement - minimum voltage seen when cranking > 10v and no issues seen starting. I also found that during testing using Nistune my O2 sensors are not responding (they are dead) showing 0v - will replace them. Summary: insufficient battery voltage to crank when warm. Hope that helps someone in future to check if they are having a similar issue. Links

And great shots @sammi_d

Great to see everyone today!

From 2001 - after someone on the forum reached out to me thought i'd revive a thread. No idea when / how I came across this - but it's actually good fun as it simulates the ATTESSA system really well, you can get points and run higher tune cars etc. http://crankroom.org/sau/RCS/ Download and un-rar the file. Run SIMR.exe to play, also there is a config setup for keys / graphics driver - characters don't display as it was in Japanese font which I dont have installed on my PC. This ran this morning on my Win10 PC with no changes... so should be good to go. Enjoy

Afternoon all, Confirming this guide was fantastic! Oil pressure sensor on my R33 GTR went the other week, ordered a new one off Just Jap. I used a 17mm stubby spanner from Supercheap Auto ($26 for the set). I didn't have to remove the fuel line, just pull off the seal boot, unclip it, feel you way around, put the spanner on and undo it. Cleaned up around where it screws in as there was a little oil coming out. Note, I used some Red Gasket RTV high temp gasket maker to put about 5mm run around the bottom of the screw in bit to then seal it (nissan manual recommends this as well). Left it an hour, tightened it up and off I went. Links

May 2020: After bending a rod got a rebuild which was just finished, run in tune at this stage, will update when finished. 97 R33 S3 GTR: Ross Racing Pistons + Spool Rods ARP head studs Nitto Oil Pump + Head Gasket + Turbo Gaskets GT2860r-7's Upgraded 880cc injectors Walbro 460 fuel pump Nistune ECU HKS EVC6 boost controller Fujitsubu equal length front pipe + HKS hi-power exhaust Run in tune was 285rwkw @ 15psi, will update when full power tune done. Links

That is shit. Good luck and hope it's found.

Good question, from everything I know it's stock - i'd need to double check though - it was done in Japan and seems to be rock stock with HKS FCon IS + Exhaust + EBC... Inevitably i'd find out quite quickly, but don't want to cause any issues. Other option is to leave it all in and swap it all out when I put new injectors + fuel pump + ECU in - just looking to see what I can do myself.

Bob, I've had a look, it's got a piggy back harness e.g. not hardwired into it - if it's as simple as that then I should be able to just disconnect it from the HKS IS / ECU and check the car starts / runs before switching to the Nistune.

Afternoon all, I've got an HKS F-CON IS piggy back ECU that came with the car from Japan and am looking to swap it out with a Nistune ECU. Before I go ripping stuff out, I wanted to see if anyone had any experience removing one and whether it is just as simple as unattaching everything and removing the harness / ECU and replacing it back into the stock one or if anything is rewired in any way. Appreciate the response! Links

Awesome - was looking at that earlier today, will order the kit from them. Thanks Ben.

Thanks for confirming Ben - the gasket kit I put on the front page has an option to have a 1.0mm restrictor included in it so will look at getting this when ordering.

Thanks for that, good advice - i've been mindful on the tight spots of getting to everything.

Thanks Brett - much appreciated!

Thanks for more input all, sounds like i'll need to invest in a few more spanners. As for going to single - good question, i'm here and have the -7's so i'll just forge forward and in years to come can come back and reflect on where it all went wrong on this post... Any thoughts around the gasket / stud kit - plan is to get the complete one and replace the studs potentially? Views on the oil restrictor for the '7s?

Thanks Duncan - yeah the studs snapping is on my mind - good advice to get some WD40 on it for a few days leading into it and just taking it easy. Will factor that in definitely. Sounds like braided lines are the way to go. Thanks - the good luck's piling in...

Great - thanks for that, exactly what I wanted to know. Will look at getting the stud kit then and replace those and save having to do it again. Re: Braided lines - good thoughts - something like this I assume - https://www.ebay.com/c/651282471 Cheers - might need it, or just some patience!

All, I've picked up a set of GT2860-7's for my R33 GTR and looking at swapping them out myself (yes have read through the pleasure that this will be). Am after some advice on the following: Any specific tools someone would recommend I get before starting it off to avoid having to do the inevitable trip to supercheap etc while mid-flight... What do people recommend from a gasket / studs etc kit - seen that Kudo's have a complete one however looking for advice on what's really required - http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/turbocharger-install-suit-nissan-skyline-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rb26dett-p-5.html Oil restrictor - is it required or not? Have read multiple threads however not clear still - some say yes.. some say no.. Thanks in advance. Links

Hoping the weather holds out for tonight.

Maybe look at something like this which is a '95.

That's the one - a great read - thanks Peter.

Unfortunately in the past 6 months the auction prices have risen and average costs are probably mid $45k. Didn't read properly and realise it's for the US - yeap, prices are crazy for all the reasons you said! If you weren't in a hurry could you get a '96 and store it locally in Japan for a while? I saw some others seem to be doing that...

Fascinating they are extremely flexible on some fronts, but on others are quite strict - makes you wonder why... I'll try and track it down, there was a great blog from someone recently describing the whole process they went through getting their R34 refreshed. Aki from http://www.r33gt-r.com/ is just getting his R33 GT-R done and dropped it off in June. He has expressed the same challenge around not having much information of the process while it is going on - so you are not the only ones. We can only dream, even just the thought of shipping + refresh + shipping back makes it a costly exercise.

Evan, Having just spent a few months trying to buy a GT-R here I would definitely avoid anything that has had strut tower repairs, even more so that you are based in Japan as you should be able to find better quality cars IMO than we can. Avoid any rust - you'll end up having to pay for it later one way or another. I'd also be trying to find a '96 S2 or '97 S3 if feasible. There is quite a few on goo-net - pricing looks to be $45k+ - how much are willing to spend? Otherwise I would go an auction and potentially use Garage Defend to find one @ Auction for you. Links

Some shots of my new(old) 1997 R33 GT-R Series 3