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Stunning - car looks amazing team - well done - a great outcome and another incredible restoration by Omori factory. How were they with the restoration - did you get much choice on what you wanted to do with it, or was it largely a refresh and refurb? Great collectors car that hopefully gets to see more shows and driven a bit. Well done.

Thanks for your help - worked a treat! For anyone looking to do this you'll just need to take the turn signals out and reach up to the 10mm bolt which holds the headlight in.

A few happened yesterday arvo unfortunately that's for sure!

I would try Enthusiast insurance, I just insured my 97 GTR and found them price wise good and easy to get coverage at agreed value. https://www.enthusiast.com.au/

Thanks for confirming, i'll try both and hopefully get the right one first. My assumption is that it is the one facing inwards from outside - there appears to be a white clip or something it goes through - is this the right one?

Morning all, I'm trying to work out how to remove the Series 3 Xenon's (with ballast attached) from the car without removing the bumper. Is it possible, if so, how? The main sticking point is what do I need to undo to release the headlights in the corner where they are attached to the bumper internally - is it the 10mm bolt that has the white clip on it? I can probably access it through the turn signal holes in the front bumper - just need to know if that's the right thing to do. Any guidance on how someone has done this before would be much appreciated. Links

For future reference. Car is an R33 GTR. I got the Autotechnica Stormguard Cover. Ordered the 1/184 sedan large up to 4.74m. I would go a size bigger as it is tight over the rear wing. Really happy with the design, quality, fits right which is great - definitely recommend.

Team, does anyone know what size of this works for an R33 GTR. I've ordered a Large one, however am not sure if it will fit with the rear wing.

Awesome! Thanks for that - much appreciated.

For everyone's benefit if searching: Using a NSW Unregistered Vehicle Permit to drive the car from Melbourne to Sydney. NSW UVP is valid in all states if you end up in NSW. Includes CTP for that duration. Have purchased comprehensive insurance. Booked in at AUVIS centre for Blue Slip to then rego. Will update once completed.

Hey Grim - car looks great - what LED's did you use for the dash upgrade?

Great day everyone - well done team for organising! Attached are some of the shots I took.

Thanks Randy - been using both as a good way to cross check!

More as an option, you can also look VIN up on the following site which I tend to use in conjunction with FAST. https://nissan.epc-data.com/ - just put in the model # into the search box e.g. WGNC34-103359 https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/286-rb26dett/?frame_no=WGNC34-103359&ref=

Sorry and sad to see Nick passed away, always super helpful and friendly. No doubt I've got a few pics from different times - will try and find when back in Aus. Thoughts with his family.

Maybe, maybe not... any answer though?

I’m looking at purchasing an R33 GT-R in VIC and bringing back to NSW. Is there any specific process above getting a blue slip and rego to transfer that I need to be aware of?

All, After having sold my R33 a few years ago, i'm interested in looking at purchasing one again. Am looking for a '96/'97 R33 GT-R VSpec or GT-R series 3. KMs wise looking for ideally < 150k - however am also realistic. I'm based in Sydney. If anyone is interested in looking at selling their car, shoot me a PM - would love to have a chat. Regards, Links

Morning all, Thanks for the prompt as always good to close out a post. After plugging in a consult cable and tracking the data when the car died the ignition was stopping. I called a Brant alarm technician to come and have a look. Keypad immobiliser module had a faulty relay which was triggering when it over heated - this was causing the relay to trigger and cut the ignition. Crank angle sensor was also replaced which has addressed the loss of power issue so all back on the road. Links

Morning all, Update in the last couple of days. Received consult cable hooked it up, ecu is showing 55 so no errors being reported. Turned the car over and it started first go - left it to idle for a while and then have taken it up / down the road while monitoring. Everything was working ok which means I now need to consider heading out for a few longer drives. Brant alarm keypad isn't lighting up so my thoughts are that there is still an issue and it's the alarm however i'll deal with it shortly. Thanks everyone for your feedback. Still not confirmed what the root cause was however will see how it goes. Links

Afternoon all, Thanks for the feedback. Update: - Have ordered ECUTalk to be able to look at what is being read from the sensors. - Based on the ECU returning 55 (all is ok) I am planning to look at disabling or removing the Brant alarm so that we can rule that out. Given the behavior and everything seems to be ok in general, i'll give the alarm the next focus and see where we go to from there.

Update: - Fuel Filter replaced, no issue with fuel as pushing out when pump priming - ECU is now showing 55 (no error) and the engine still won't start. - Next step is to check the wiring and see if there is anything other things broken

Afternoon, Idle prior to stalling was fine, no lumpiness or change in tone. Quick update: - have disconnected AFM to see if it would start in limp mode, engineer turns over but no starting. - checked CAS is connected ok and rotated to see if any difference. No change. - won't start at all now. Next steps: - purchase consult cable so we can see what the sensors are showing - going to replace field filter and check fuel pressure to make sure issue isn't a blockage. - will also look at testing CAS again and then start to check electricals and also lines to make sure no leaks etc

Thanks, not sure why a compression / vacuum issue would see it randomly fail - would have expected it to be more consistent however worth thinking through.

Afternoon all, Quick background: - 1998 R33 S2 GTS-T with minor mods - brant security alarm fitted. - 120,000 kms Summary: - Engine was losing power (would hesitate then pick up) at 1,500 - 2,000 RPM and then died suddenly after having been doing this for a few weeks. - Electrical's continue to work and immobiliser not kicking in (engine light on), engine will turn over but not start immediately after. - Starts again after 20 - 30 minutes and runs for maybe 5 minutes at most before dying again - Fuel pump flowing ok and primes when power turned on, mechanic checked and fuel flow ok. - Checked diagnostics and returned 11 CAS code (need to check again now it's died again) - Replaced with second hand R34 NEO GTT CAS from JustJap, mechanic says car ran fine for "30 minutes" - Picked it up and same issue occurred within 200m where engine died and wouldn't start. Note: - Coil packs / spark plugs were replaced approx. 10k ago Looking to get some assistance in understanding what the issue may be and how best to isolate. Consideration: - AFM - ECU - Wiring issue - Earthing issue - Immobiliser - ? Links