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Something that decomposes into the air vents.. man THAT WOULD SUCK.. Cos I know i'd hate to have fish smelling my car out.. If you could put it in under his bonnet that would be great.. bit of cooked fish..

Chances are he might have read this already.. intersting.. see what others have to say, than maybe we'll see if he'd like to comment..

Hmmmm.. it's interesting seeing everyone's different perspective.. Sydneykid - if you were after better photos - it would almost be worth emailing Dino - http://blog.gtroc.com/dino/ - who takes a large number of the photos and writes the articles.. he's also on gtr.co.uk - as DCD - however people already know that.. As for technical.. I think sometimes it's good.. some bad.. I end up reading 3 different magazines to absorb some new things.. including FastFours which has run 2 x Skyline modification articles in this one + last one.. Some of which has incorrect information - 99% of which is available on this forum but is always good having in a concise article rather than searching 10,000 posts.. Autosalon.. well they appeal to a different market, however once you get past all the ad's plus glossy crap have some alright articles to read.. HPI - was good.. until otomoto started to pop up.. this was around when they were doing their R32 -> 2.4ltr conversion.. I stopped reading after all this happened.. as I also located Dino's blog which had photos in it.. Interesting article in Autosalon is the C-West S2000 which has some intersting carbon fibre details.. which than made me look at the website and they have a comparison.. anyways.. it's a quick scan at the newsagent.. pick it up if it's good.. flick through than either put back.. or it goes in the pile next to the toilet

Depends - if not having a bleed valve, but the vacuum line is still hooked up to the actuator than it'll run standard boost.. if the vacuum hose was NOT attached to the actuator, than it would never open the wastegate and the turbo would boost until your foot backed off the pedal.. Check which it is - 1. does nothing to the turbo.. 2. could cause permanent damage..

When is it happening.. coming onto boost.. or when you back off boost.. Is it happening ALL the time, or only after you have been giving it a bit of a run.. If it's a) backing off boost & b) after you've been giving it a bit - the excess fuel is just being ignited as it hits the turbo/exhaust causing it to pop.. not really a huge issue.. Not sure why you'd get a "Dyno tune" when the car has the stock ECU.. unless you think there is something seriously wrong I don't see the point.. unless you want to see how rich your A/F ratios are going.. Not sure how a new fuel pump will help.. Hmm.. trying to think of what else it is.. more details on when it happens would be good..

I believe Ben(Editor or Columnist) is also on this forum - also runs otomoto..

Some people cut it than remold it to fit..

As much as I'd hate to say it, i've now been purchasing Autosalon magazine over HPI.. Used to get Speed -> HPI -> Autosalon.. I did have a 6 month subscription.. but it just wasn't cutting it.. Why.. well.. I find value for money Autosalon is better.. Not only that, but maybe if they combined the sister magazine's - drift battle & HPI, i'd probably buy it.. chuck Zoom into that as well and I guess i'd almost pay $18 for them.. becuase that's what I think they are worth.. I do like the fact that they have old ones chucked in, but if they do that to sell it's a worry..

Thought i'd bump this one - Emsta - noticed you've ended up getting a PEII.. how's it sound.. what else did everyone else end up doing.. My trip to america has prevented me getting a new exhaust

Looks great.. also looks like you've got an aftermarket cat-back on it which is good.. what's the plan with it??

Top of the gauge is 13.7PSI.. it's in x100mmHg.. so > 3/4 is about 9/10PSI

See what i'm up to.. might drag the grey thing out of the garage for a run..

Careful sidd - 0.8 is close to 12psi.. you'll be fine though Anyways - you'll be fine on 10psi.. My car is stock e.g. stock SMIC & the rest i'm running 9/10psi (spikes on quick boost delivery).. Never missed a beat, just don't run it non stop without letting it cool as that's when your exhaust temps get high.. With a R34 GTT SMIC you should be even safer.. Try it out - see how you go.. if you get hesitation, lower the boost a bit..

Pictures may help people decide..

Good luck with it.. just ask them about it and see what they say..

No worries.. wait and see what a couple of other people think - do you have some photos.. Probably nothing really to worrie about.. RTA won't check the VIN against something like nissan fast.. just interesting to know what's going on.. Don't stress out too much - from the sounds of it that's probably what's happened and should be easy to find out.. are you getting it here - or importing it over?.. BTW - KR4 (Sonic Silver) is the same colour as mine as a reference..

Well - that VIN belongs to a R33 SII that rolled off the production line as a Auto.. I suggest you find out if a) a manual conversion was done or b) someone's swapped the VIN.. What colour is the car meant to be as well?? If you would like extra confirmation - call nissan tomorrow - they can run the VIN through nissan fast.. however you'll get the same as what I did here..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry2393326 Looks like a bit of cross posting on the same topic.. thought i'd link them together..

Another interesting fact.. Cars 135079 and 135081 are both 40th annv.. so what you may find is that Auto's didn't get the 40th annv badging?? Does anyone have a 40th Annv in auto

Interesting.. I'll upload you yours.. And i'll upload you mine.. As you can see - i've included what the model codes mean - specifically the 16th one which on mine denotes 40th annv.. Yours however.. is Auto.. and doesn't have that same model code.. Interpret how you want.. Looking at this - there is a possibility that all 98's are 40th annv.. however - i'm not sure.. Your VIN does match up.. so that's a good sign..

What is the VIN.. and we'll check it out..

DO NOT hand anything over until racepace have looked it over.. DO NOT agree to anything, from what you've said you already put a deposit down, so just wait until someone's gone over it.. Sounds like a good deal, however you should be able to do a bit better (but everyone always says that I guess).. Good luck with it tomorrow, don't rush into anything.. From the sounds of it you'll be going through with it though.. get him to get it registered and than drive away!!.. As for "compliancers" selling cars.. I had the same thing.. if you sell more than 9 cars/year in NSW than technically your a dealer.. and need to have a license.. Reasons for not being licensed - they don't have to give 3 months warranty.. that's a huge one.. they just get someone to buy them.. they compliance.. than sell on behalf of the person who originally brought it in..

Fast does show that they were 40th annv I believe.. If I recall off the top of my head.. i'll check later if I get a chance..

Joined - Hot Wheels Racing in the champ car series.. currently coming 6th fastest in practice.. see how I go in qualifying..

I don't understand why you wouldn't get a SII R33 for around $2k more including RWC & Rego... you'll be getting a newer car.. ANYWAYS.. Compression test <- important I think.. FULL TANK OF FUEL <- $100 saving later on down the track Take it for a decent drive <- make sure your happy.. Get an inspection <- combined with point 1.. Start it when it's cold <- make sure they aren't starting it and warming it up before you get there.. Remember you've got insurance to pay + better tyres once you've bought it.. Steering wheel looks crap as well, get that replaced.. what about the brakes? get the rotor's machined..