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Rev Limiter on the R33 GTS-t is 6,800rpm.. My car infact beeps when I hit approx. > 5,500 RPM.. Personally I haven't heard that in about 3 months.. In a turbo car there isn't really a huge need to push it that far i think.. sure.. if you lose traction you might hit it.. but you can always back off.. I haven't driven an N/A R33, however I don't believe pusing it to the redline will really do the car any good.. I hope you are changing your oil every 5,000kms.. with decent oil.. And have had all the mechanics checked over if the car is only newish.. You don't want to do it round a corner and spin a bearing.. As someone said it's to stop excess rotational force.. there is a fine limit up the top end.. Learn to make the most of the torque range and as beer baron said it's going to make peak power/torque before the rev limiter..

Only thing is you don't want it to burn up your cat.. but yeah - should be fine.. mines been doing it for a year or so.. All good..

I would have to take a stab @ R&R is kicking in.. what's happening is that it's ramping up the boost.. detecting the increased air flow.. than dumping in fuel and retarding the timing..e.g. rich & retard - protection system is kicking in to prevent over boosting.. By slowly easing it in - you won't experience this as it won't see a huge spike of air flow.. I would suggest lowering the boost.. or just not slamming the foot down in 1st and 2nd.. OR - get a power fc and tune it.. edit - It won't be leaning out.. if it's using the stock ecu this is a protection system.. and will be riching up the mixture instead.. Do a bit of a search. you'll find plenty of topics..

Stock ones do it all the time.. usually when you've been going up a hill @ full boost for a while.. gets really hot and than ignites the excess fuel when you back off.. Shouldn't bee too much an issue..

I also did.. I believe that you.. myself and cubes are all in agreence..

Thrust bearing/Throw Out bearing are the same thing.. input shaft bearing is different.. it's the main bearing that the input shaft sits in and is between the shaft and the gearbox housing.. The noise I believe is from the thrust bearing/throwout bearing.. The input shaft bearing will make a noise at the same time, however slightly depressing the clutch will not make it stop.. If you are slightly depressing the clutch and it goes away than it is probably the thrust bearing.. usually happens when you put a new clutch kit in.. If the whole car is under warranty - get it fixed.. they should pay for it all that's the deal.. if it isn't.. unless it's driving you nuts.. i'd leave it.. when it's gonna cost you aroung $400 to pull the box down I don't believe it's worth it.. The bearing isn't rumbling.. it's just squeaking.. Also - changing the clutch won't fix a worn input shaft bearing.. they have to re-pressed to fix that..

At the moment I haven't done anything to fix it.. the whole thrust bearing will be spinning freely I believe when the input shaft is spining as there is nothing putting any pressure on it.. it's different to when the bearing is worn, as that noise happens when the 2 sleaves spin at different speeds and the bearings rumble.. I believe the whole thing is spinnng freely but possibly off balance or it's rubbing on something..

well.. gee.. lets all go get carried away here.. lol.. I don't see how comparing a mines GT-R to street cars is really the best example.. how many times do you see the mines GT-R stuck in bumper to bumper traffic???.. Anyways.. Top Gear is on.. so i'm going to watch that!!..

I think they had one of the ns.com guys on there.. Said he got completely suprised and nearly flipped at them till he realised.. Hilarious.. think he was the DRIF7N one..

Feeding colder air would be a better proposition.. I find it hard to believe that an open pod in the engine bay will get colder air than from the stock snorkel.. It is around 1% for every 4 degrees I believe.. It would be better to try and find a cold source of air e.g. if you have a front mount, feed air from where the Side mount used to be.. or use something such as Maxxs where it sucks using the stock snorkel.. I don't understand how having a pod behind a headlight is going to get cold air fed to it.. That's my thoughts anyway..

Ahahaha.. sounds just like mine.. I can kick the clutch in a little and it goes away.. than comes back.. than goes away.. my thoughts are that it is the thrust bearing not sitting right and wobbling.. does it increase with revs??.. As soon as you put pressure on the clutch it is moving the clutch fork and grabbing the thrustbearing and stops it from wobbling.. that's my thoughts anyways.. might be wrong.. but mine did that after I put in a different clutch from the stock nissan one..

Would agree with SK.. maybe it's getting a higer rate of flow.. R&R'ing.. which will of course feel slower to you.. See how you go easing it onto boost.. Also - I don't see how the boost could change e.g. yeah, ran a bit higher whilst the computer was learning, but sorted itself out in <1km..... as I don't believe that the boost would be controlled by the computer in any way.. Might be wrong.. maybe it's time for a Dr. Drift ECU tune!!

Lingering - probably depends on the tracks?.. Dan - what's your entry speeds compared to some of the Jap drifting guys?

Was good.. not sure about calling everyone by their nicknames everytime.. was amusing listening to it.. Oh.. and to much of the Monaro.. It's great that it makes big smoke.. but that's not all of it!!.. Maybe do some other stuff focusing on the cars.. give people a run down on a couple of them.. engine.. turbo.. mods.. power.. this and that.. Great to watch though..

Cheers Dan.. unfortunately can't spend the whole weekend out there.. see how I go..

Not sure what i'm up to yet.. hoping too.. Dan.. what would be the best day to go.. you reckon the Sunday..

Dan got knocked out early in the other R33 when his handbrake locked on and he spun.. Goto say.. was good but they talk that Monaro up way too much.. gives me the shits..

Ohh.. that sucks..

make sure you get a mechanic to check it over.. Steering wheel and seat look like they have a bit of wear and tear.. hmm.. 50k seems right.. (maybe)

Just wondering how you find the vid.. Well.. seems to be a fair few skylines having accidents at the moment.. probably the fact that sydney people aren't used to the rain lol

Yeah was amusing chatting with smasha - I was just heading home from work.. Man traffic sucks @ 4:30pm..

If you were filming.. who was driving your car Stan.. lol.. Anyways.. Stupid idiots.. Where did you find that out of interest?

I would say your gauge is stuffed as well..

That's correct ^^.. and 300V is ester based which is more pure I believe.. However that won't stop the oil pressure behaving normally.. http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke15.html

When cold - oil pressure should be around 6.. When warm - @ 4,000 rpm should be around 4.. When warm - idle - should be around 2.. - Colder the oil.. the higher the oil pressure.. the harder you push the car.. the higher the oil pressure.. normal cruising - you should sit around 4 unless you come to an idle.. Oil pressure should vary.. it's normal.. if you don't know why - I suggest you read some sites on the web regarding cars or oil pressure