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As for getting one for you car.. You could probably order one from nissan *sAfrican American*.. also need to change where your blinkers are located (they are inclosed in a grey plastic part similar to the GTR ones).. and lose the spotlights..

Yeah - check my pic - rancix is the same.... Sorry to dissapoint you - looks like he's full of shit.. Never seen that one before.. They were offered as a factory option vs. the stock S2 bumper.. Also side skirts as well I think (not 100% on that one).. That one actually looks like a fibreglass bumper not a plastic one as per the stock ones.. "front bar is being replaired"

Adelaide to Sydney in 1 day.. wow.. how long did that take you.. East lindfield.. not bad..

i've got them in plastic.. but not in metallic.. so it could have been a factory option..

Hmm.. interesting.. how hard are you pushing it through the corners?? Maybe try better tyres and some wider wheels..

Check how much boost the car is running as well..

Personally ^^ that looks like a much better deal to me.. Remember - if the ODO is screwed.. your gonna have issues selling it later on down the line.. Getting it down > $2,500 your game.. but meh.. see how you go.. Also - check out the VIN in Fast - someone on here can do it and double check..

i'd be leaning more towards 150kw.. which is around what people get when dynoing them stock..

Very sad to read.. never good to hear when something happens.. condolences to the family.. I hope people realise not to drive with space savers unless required.. if i'm correct - running a space saver (15" wheel approx.) vs a 20" wheel with an LSD is very dangerous as it will cause the diff to lock prematurely (rotating at different speeds).. anyways.. unfortunately these things happen.. hopefully people learn from it..

I think that may have been done on the 1998 manufacturing rollout as they were developing the R34GTT.. maybe they changed them at that stage..

hahaha.. ahh funky.. actually I think there were also R33 Type MR GTS25t as well.. just to throw a curve ball.. http://rps13kuma.hp.infoseek.co.jp/Friends...33/kuri_r33.htm It was done by the Kangawara prince nissan - 280MR (i think it's called..) goto babelfish and stick this in the translate.. http://club-gts.sakura.ne.jp/skyline/conte...tory/index.html

^^ wouldn't personally do that.. don't see how the air is going to be any better.. it's not about the air being "rammed" into the stock airbox.. it's about providing the airbox with a cool supply of fresh air.. I think you'll find the design is quite good and will draw cleaner, cooler air than a pod with no box... why is the title " R33 R33 Airbox," when you've got an R34... anyways.. as the turbo spools up, it's gonna suck in as much air as it can get it's hands on.. short of feeding it air from near the front bumper I don't get how the air is going to be any better..

Personally.. if they aren't willing to fix it asap than walk away.. sounds like it's got some issues that you don't want to be dealing with yourself..

Depending on whether my gearbox is fixed by than i'll be in.. leave me off for the moment.. update closer to the time..

Second that ^^.. looks like you've had some nice jobs there..

There was a nissan factory option "sports suspension" I believe.. Just like my "sports exhaust".. and nissan option gearknob (looks carbon fibrish)..

Most people recommend ultimate..

Your mechanic seems to tell you alot of things aren't worth it.. but doesn't seem to be able to fix your problem.. Maybe look at an SAFC or a power fc if it's a manual.. get a SMIC, and try and find a way to keep the boost ~10psi (preserve the stock turbo)..

You could try running a hose with a wider diameter so it lets more air through and opens the wastegate earlier?? It does also depend on what is causing the issue.. is it the solenoid?? try a bleed valve and have it screwed out completely and see what boost it runs..

The current boost solenoid will never prevent your car from overboosting.. if you free up enough back pressue your turbo is going to run a higher boost pressure.. the solenoid does not know how much boost you are running, it is purely an on/off device, >4500 rpm it opens, letting less air hit the wastegate spring therefore requiring higher boost before it starts opening the wastegate.. using a boost controller is a damned good fix as it allows you to set within ~1psi of your desired boost level.. you just can't do that with the stock solenoid. Your only protection against overboost really is R&R by the ECU when it detects too much airflow (overboosting)... but if you run say an Aftermarket ECU - you lose this.. Your choice.. I wouldn't recommend changing the wastegate spring, most people would probably recommend putting a bleed valve in or an aftermarket boost controller.. Also - limp mode locks the car to <2,000rpm.. you'll never be able to rev above it if I am correct.. currently the only thing setting your boost level is the restriction created by the hose running to the solenoid/wastegate.. add more restriction or free up the backpressure on a turbo and it's going to run higher boost/or more efficiently.. not sure why it is spiking to 12psi.. what does it go to when you go over 4,500rpm - does it go from 7psi to - 9/10psi?

You could look at getting one of the bleed valves from the forum for about $30 delivered.. That should help you with the boost atleast.. as for the errors.. not srue..

Cheers guys.. Spoke to my mechanic, we've narrowed it down pretty much too the input shaft bearing.. quotes about $700 to do the bearing.. or $1200 to do the clutch at the same time.. $460 for labour.. rest for parts + oil..

Out of interest, how does well does it fit in the front left guard area.. have you removed the panel that's in front of the wheel? How much are they as well.. Wouldn't mind getting a R34 gt-t SMIC.. as really i don't need a huge one.. but would be nice to have..

Well.. very lucky for you.. once again.. get insurance.. but well done..

Ahhh.. probably got confused there than.. cheers