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Doodz - i'll be looking for a 10am arrival.. depending on traffic for the A1 - could be good/bad.. Which way you gonna be heading out there.. No one wash their car - that way it won't rain..

Don't believe there were any on the cruise AMS.

I think alot of people would recommend you look at private buys as well.. You will find that most dealerships - especially Parramatta Rd have quite a high markup on cars.. e.g. the equivilant R33 to mine - 40th Annv will cost you up to $26,000+ in a dealership, when privately you would be looking at $22,000.. well - it's up to you.. check him out and see what you think - all dealers MUST offer you 3 months warranty, this can be a good thing, personally if there is something overly wrong with your car in the first 3 months i'd be a bit worried.. Anyways - good luck

Saturday A few showers, mostly in the morning . Moderate southeast winds. Min: 19CMax: 23C This was taken from the SMH website.. hopefully it'll be a-ok

makes for an interesting read, not wrong about it taking along time.. lol.. be good to see how it all goes when your finished..

R33 FAST moving parts has been uploaded..

Stan.. did you want to give people an idea of what area this was in.. North Shore.. or Parramatta area..??

hmmmmm... don't even know if I can be bothered saying anything.. Go and read up on how a BOV works and why it works and you might realise that putting one on an N/A car is ridiculous.. The rules in NSW are there for a reason and there is nothing you can do about it unfortunately.. wait till your a bit older, than buy a turbo car.. edit: i've even gone to the effort to find a page for you to look at.. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf/bov.html

Looks like I got a spot - Cheers for that NXTIME i'll catch you out there..

So does anyone have a spare spot.. I'm still a lookin..

another vote for hicas here..

Chances are it is probably running richer as it will sense more air-flow.. you should be fine - if you want to check - stick it on a dyno and if you want to change - look at getting an SAFCII or something along those lines.

You need someone with a colour printer at work that'd do the job.. .. If you go to Officeworks - sorry wasn't thinking straight - it might be cheaper than that and get it printed on A4 paper than cut it out.. Looks great mate - looking forward to the Trailer being released.

It's usually ok to run up to about 12psi @ the most.. i'd probably keep it at about 10psi depending on how old your turbo is and how likely you think it is going spit out the exhaust wheel.. Also depends on how you drive probably.. but 11psi should be fine

Mine is stock except from exhaust.. it still does it.. I wouldn't be too worried..

VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): 6U90000ER34002717

I have a '94 Nissan Cedric, VIN#: PY32-770579 As it's in japanese it makes it very difficult to tell you what it has.. I've found it - the VIN is actually: PY32 - 000579 for anyone that can look it up in japanese.. I could go through all the parts, if I get a chance i'll check it out..

I'll setup a different location for you and give you details of how to access it.. The server is on a 10mbit+ link so should serve it up to a fair few people @ approx 200kB/s..

Do you need somewhere that's fast to host the trailer stan - or you got it sorted

Still looking for a spot .. anyone

You forgot to mention whether you have an aftermarket BOV or not - if you do these are known to cause issues with idling/stalling in skylines.

It's running rich.. that's what they do - especially when it's using the O2 sensor to control it's A/F ratios.. put it on a dyno and watch them drop.. You'll find sometimes after having been going hard up a hill it'll dump fuel when you completely back off the throttle and sounds like someones making pop-corn in your exhaust.. that's the way it is.. Having a stock BOV won't totally resolve the issue, mine still does it.. but you've goto be doing some quick shifts usually for it to happen..

Hmm.. sounds a bit strange, sometimes when idling mine will get a little rough.. but can even this out by just touching the throttle a little bit.. The RPM's should go up a little bit when the Aircon is turned on as the ECU should automatically adjust the idle RPM according to the power required. You could try resetting the ECU and get it to re-learn it's timing as per the new fuel and so on and so forth.. I don't know about the whole "it's running rich to cool it down" even after pushing mine very hard it's still idling pretty well - maybe if you turn it off than back on it has trouble hunting for a idle RPM. Get a couple of other guys to listen to it and see what they think - it's a bit hard to guess at what it is when we can't hear it.. Does the car have HICAS? what year model is it? When was it brought into Australia?

Black smoke usually shouldn't be coming out unless your really punting it hard or maybe just when you back off the throttle and it's dumping excess fuel into the system.. is it diong it while you are idling - or mainly pushing hard.. Best way to check A/F ratios is put the thing on a dyno.. also get a conzult cable from someone and check that your O2 sensor is working correctly and that it isn't just defaulting to running rich.. Doesn't sound like there is too much of an issue, might just need to be cleaned up a bit.. also maybe change your fuel?

Cheers, looking forward to it