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I've pm'd him the details of my ftp.. Nellah if you get a chance upload and pm me the details.

And if there is a spot for a spectator as I dont' have a awesome digital camera please pm me.. abo bob - i've pm'd you doodz - same as ^^

Normally it'll be higher when it's cold e.g. you first start the car, it'll go up to about 6ish.. than when warm settles down to about 2.. when accelerating it'll tend to go up to 4 - not much higher.. should sit on 2 when idling though and warmed up.. it changes with RPM though - higher the RPM the higher the oil pressure..

Was about to say as paul said it could be due to a restrictive exhaust unable to flow enough..

^^^ mmmmm.. that sounds bloody tempting.. but unfortunately I have to work on friday

Doh.. don't know if i'm busy or not.. i'll have to find out and see if someone has a free spot.. (crosses fingers).. it's this or the A1 - i'd rather see the SAU guys in action.. hehe

It's a defectable modification - however I doubt they will.. my car got complianced with one - maybe they just said it's a boost gauge (which it does do) so I don't think it's a huge issue..

Although they are deemed illegal nearly every man and his dog with a turbo car has one, including myself. Best advice is - take it easy for the last couple of minutes when giving it a boot before you turn it off, this way you've got cool air moving through the engine bay.. For you to damage the turbo I believe it is caused when you have been running it hard for a long time, than turning the engine off straight away the metal can change it's shape due to sudden temperature change + the fact that the oil is no longer flowing you can get heat soak.. generally not good for a car whether it be turbo or not.. Just take it easy, and it'll be fine..

It depends on what state you are in - according to the RTA in NSW it is illegal to have an aftermarket turbo-timer.. Just car require you to have atleast a 2-point immobiliser fitted, they dont' require an alarm.. "legal" - is dependant on what your state's rules are.. email them and you'll get a response. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anthony, Turbo timers are illegal in NSW. There are a number of reasons. 1: Where a vehicle was built to meet the Australian Design Rules, from 1972, it is a defect if the key can be removed from the ignition switch while the engine is still running. 2: Under NSW law, it is an offence to leave the engine running on an unattended vehicle. If you have any other enquiries, don't hesitate to reply or contact Technical Enquiries on 1300 137 302. Regards Colin Lambert Technical Enquiries Officer

Get a power FC.. much easier

My car has similar sounds when you turn it off... it'll kinda hiss for a bit like there is a pressure releasing.. Makes a couple of other noices, ticks a bit than settles down and stops after 20secs or so.. I've got over it as I don't think there is anything wrong I think it's probably just the engine cooling..

I had my car on about the same boost level as you last weekend on the way to avoca.. if I 3/4 throttled it so that it was about 8psi it'd gun it, as soon as I went full throttle 10psi it'd rich and retard, wouldn't accelerate till it settled down or I backed off the throttle.. It's a protection mechanism for the ECU, you could try maybe a SAFCII - not sure if this would make a difference..

R33 GT-R Vspec - no options.. Made in March 1995 enjoy

Good choice with Sewid's car on the front.. not much more I can say really.. that thing is FAT.. (it better be his V-spec)

If it's coming fully on boost and hesitating it's usually due to Rich and Retard.. turn down the boost a bit until it stops doing it than run it from there until you can get a power fc or something like that..

Well sounds great to me stan.. put me down.. Covers looking great mate.. I'm keen for this.. my p.o.s. better be in it..

Nellah if you want to PM me i'll set you up an FTP so that you can upload what you've got to me and i'll take a look at it than put it up. Some programs for the parts is FAST cut down to only work as the parts checker.. As for the service manual - is it different to the ones up on the site already.. We're still after the R33 owners manual..

They are used to stop back pressure from slowing the turbo down.. there is plenty of arguments for and against.. I'm sure there is some other reasons as well

After talking with Eli and a number of others, we are going to leave it in there for another couple of weeks, dump the oil and replace it and the filter and monitor it for a week.. reason for leaving it is that if it is in fact sludge buildup it will hopefully get all of it free - suspended in the oil and get rid of most of it in 1 go.. I will also be switching to Motul as most people on here recommend.. i do realise people say my oil is fine.. but I don't like the fact that in the space of 4 days - i've completely saturated it with carbon.. cleaning it out is a good start rather than leaving it in there for more to build up or overcome it's suspension properties.. After eduacting myself in the past 2 days - I think there shouldn't be any issues.. when I get it serviced next i'll probably get a comression test done and this should give me an indication of any piston issues.. i'll keep everyone posted.. As for the A/F ratios - i'm thinking about looking at a SAFCII + R34 GT-T intercooler for the summer as I know how hot it gets.. For the popping issue - I think maybe a Split 3" dump pipe might help resolve this issue..

I'm surprised people actually change it from the stock one as it's well known that it causes idling issues.. personally i'd rather not attract to much attention/defects

One of the more amusnig threads i've read.. as for the idling - get a atmo/plumbed back one to combat this.. not that I would bother.. and not sure if it will help your fuel issues.. welcome to the club of shit milege.. was just reading SII r33 is meant to be 9.8L/100km.. - MY ASS!!! mines about 15L/100km.. and that's stock except for exhaust..

Its like like wot boost u run, and some one says 10, we all know they mean 10psi, its just the common thing. What.. you think saying i'm running 0.85 kilograms per centimetre squared isn't understandable .. your damn right!!.. Hardest is when you are trying to work out shit in your head.. it's the same as bar.. but just confusing when you get 0.66 or 0.41 or crap like that.. they're about 5psi and 8psi..

Put it on the dyno in August - was running rich and i'm sure it still is.. A/F dipped down to about 10.5:1..

Thanks Roy - I just got set off by a combination of factors.. however i'm not a fan of things that go from one extreme e.g. clean oil to quite black oil within the space of 5 days - considering he did a "flush" as well.. sure it'll be black - however I wouldn't have expected this to happen for a while - but maybe the weekend driving accelerated what normally happens..

Well yes.. I could.. however I don't believe that is the issue as it's not losing any power..