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Do you have any headlights? e.g. Right front headlight if it's a SII R33

Cheers tkch55, This is quite interesting as at the fully open setting I was under the impression that these would just deliver stock boost levels however it appears that the spring must have quite a pressure on the ball even when just slightly in.. A jump from 7psi -> 12/13psi is huge (5/6psi).. obviously it doesn't work in a linear fashion as you would thing e.g. 7psi -> 10psi. I might just cut the solenoid wire and leave it at 8psi for the moment rather than 10psi with a solenoid. Thanks for that.. hardest part is working out where to put it - i'll check the setup out tonight and have a think about it..

Ahh ok - fair enough than, might have to try laying some rubber down the street and seeing how it goes..

Would the R33 GTR headlights fit an R33 SII gts-t.. my right one is a bit fusked.. Also i'm in sydney.

Gengis - good point.. I got given 2 x sales receopts.. one for RTA.. one for me.. makes 3% a lot better..

Has it already been registered or is it a fresh import? Check that it has a jack and tool kit - small thing but important, also full fuel tank of premium - small things but add up to $200 if you don't have them.. Damage isn't a huge issue - is it the light - check that the 2 mount points are broken as mine are - if they aren't you can adjust it to lower it. If it's not the light it's probably the front bar being replaced. Check that it isn't missing when you drive it (power lag from 4,500 - 5,000rpm - the boost will drop).. Check that the solenoid is still working - goes from 5psi to 8psi from 4,500 rpm.. Check it revs freely without any nasty sounds.. check that it idles well - for atleast 15minutes i'd say.. turn it off and restart it straight away. I got mine checked by NRMA - he checked the suspension and control arms as well.. check that nothing is bent.. don't be afraid to get under the car, get the mechanic to get it up on a hoist and check it.. Should cost about $50 for a compression test.. Overall - make sure your happy with it.. if in doubt with anything - don't buy it.. That's about the majority of it.. make sure you do atleast 100+ kmph in it - check that there are no seals not working and creating annoying noises while you drive.. Aircon works - heating works.. headlights work.. brake lights work, blinkers work correctly.. Good luck.. hopes that helps.. Links

Dancn - how'd you go with that - I just email mark asking exactly the same question.. Has anyone set this up on an R33 with the dual stage boost solenoid?? Wouldn't mind using it so it goes from 8psi -> 10psi when >4,500rpm

Wouldn't mind the other one for $88,000.. lol.. nice cars.. very stock looking.. not quite sure why it would be worth $160,000.. alot of money.. Doubt many collectors would buy it.. save the pennies and get a Z-tune

hmmm $260.. I can wait for the time being, tend not to hang it out through many corners.. Cheers though - might look into it after i've had a trip away..

If you can service the car yourself you'll save alot. If your worried about the age of the R33 - get a 40th Annv. one like I did - it's 98 - got ~70k on the odo, great mechanical and cost about $10,000 less than an R34 GT-T would have. as for getting it on the road.. I got mine 1 month ago and this is what it's cost me so far.. NRMA inspection: $360 (cos it's a turbo, well worth it though) rego: ~$650 greenslip: ~$300 insurance: ~$2000 alarm: ~$900 full tank of petrol: ~$90 (which lasted about a weekend or so lol) Also don't forget the 3% stamp duty which will be about $400.. = ~$4300 to get it on the road fully insured.. Now that i've slowed down - I only drive mine the weekend + a couple of nights a week - so about $30 - $40/week petrol.. Tyres should last a while if your not doing 2 many km's or burnouts.. Service - lookin at about $250 - $300 for a general service.. good luck - great car.. but yeah - adds up..

i'm 22 with 98 r33 gtst - usual shit - $2000 - just cars do within a bracket.. also depends on previous driving record.. personally they gave me 50% no claim off the bat.. I'm a fan of that..

Nismo Racer - if you PM me i'll give you a link for where you can download it from.

Most alarms don't arm until after you have killed the ignition or the turbo timer stops. Turbo timers effectively keep the circuit on the ignition open as you said. My car will set the alarm off if I turn it to the on position without deactivating the immobiliser before I start it, i'm sure if I mucked around with the ignition wires it would go off as well - most cars won't let you arm them until the car is no-longer running making it quite hard for what your saying to happen. Ask Chris Rogers and see what he says - seems to have a good idea of alarms.

How the hell are they using a MD5 hash check on the images - must check the contents of the photos in bits and generate the hash from that.. it's very hard to have 2 MD5's that match - although it is not impossible. They should be running a better hash than that.. personally I think you get a crypto/security specialist in there.. That's the lamest reason for throwing out the evidence. The judge wouldn't know what the hell an MD5 hash check was.. ----------------- good in 1 sense being that he got off.. but fusk him - if he's speeding in a school zone.. he deserves it.. not good - but it's the way it goes..

Heal-toe'in, Double Clutchin, Engine Breaking, Coasting, Neutral, 3rd till 1,200rpm.. you know what - I like to mix it up a bit you know.. do I think the lights gonna go green in a sec.. am I turning right.. like to keep myself on edge - pick one of the 5.. usually it's a case of heel-toe'ing or double clutching if i'm in a racy mood - sounds good.. + never hurts to practice.. also engine breaking is better I guess.. as for saying it puts wear and tear on the gear-box/clutch.. WTF - your driving a skyline for christ's sake.. that's the least of your worries.. i'm sure you never go over 2,000rpm as well.. hmmm... strange..

Differences also include the 40th annv stitching in the seats lol if you've got one.. nismo front bar, rear sway bar in boot, gtr rear wing, sunroof, hicas.. i'm sure these cross into SI and SII - depends on what the original owner got factory.. also what about HICAS - do SI have hicas?

Thommo - you said you took yours to Unique - how much did they charge you to get the diff+gearbox oil changed? I'm looking at giving my car a major service - and reading this looks like my diff's on the way out as well, don't push it too hard but when I do tyre's light up on the right side, in the wet they just spin the whole way up the street - although i'm not sure if this is just 1 wheel (right) or both.. if it's both it's fine.. if it's 1 it's not..

+7 on the gauge is 14.5PSI I do believe.. so 1/2 way is about 7PSI.. should prob go a bit higher than that..

Not good fLip.. are both of them over in japan? or is one of them here and the other in japan? You could always import it here than sell it off? $4,000 is a huge amount.. I say get $6,000 off.. use it to fly over there and extract the other $2,000 from him for being a fusker.. leave him with $1,000 - which might cover the medical bills..

Because of things like this I had a Brant system fitted to mine which includes the keypad.. ppl complain about entering the pin.. I say for the 3 seconds it takes me, I don't care - if that's the difference between a thief looking and walking away - or smashing my window and f**king up the interior i'll do it.. cost around $900 for the brant system - yes I know they are in receivorship/not around - however there are some private guys who are still putting them together and installing them.. or you can get the just cars one which pretty much does the same thing - however I think it could be easy to get around rather than the brant one is all wired in together.. have managed to set my alarm off 3 times so far - the sonic speakers make it very uncomfortable when in the car if it goes off - they hit you at a particularly nasty pitch.. that and i've got 2 sliding latches on my garage that can only be opened from the inside.. Sad fact is - if someone wants your car bad enough.. they'll get it.. i'd recommend keeping your keys within your bedroom within reach.. and hide the spares.. in a safe or something..

Going down the lighthouse road in byron bay.. which is one way up.. and one way down.. only I was going down the up way.. coming round a corner, locked up brakes in FWD celica, let off my foot just as I was about to hit the rock wall, car mounted wall on inner 2 tires and proceeded to ride around the wall (on 2 wheels scratching the hell out of the rims - we were on an angle similar to this) - (wall) |\ (car) - with the road about 30cm from my drivers window.. rode it round for about 10m than came back down luckily on all 4's rather than rolling the car.. $1500 damage to front left panel where it hit the wall, front bar replaced.. and one hell of a scare.. mind you I won't say what was in my body at the time.. suffice to say if police had arrived.. i would have been in ALOT of trouble.. I put it down to the celica having a low centre of gravity stopping it from tipping over..

Could just have different plates on it - vs. it being a conversion..

Say it's the gearbox + driveline - goto remember the whole car is stripped out..

Luckily living in an apartment i've got a garage - chich also has 2 sliding locks that can only be unlocked from the inside.. I've also got a brant alarm fitted so that if my keys are stolen they need to get around the keypad.. I also lock and arm my car even if it's in the garage.. also told the people that live above it if they hear the alarm go off.. they have permission to kick the shit out of the person..

Thanks duncan - might have just been in use.. getting paid this week.. so i'll probably fax it to you guys later this week - which will also get you to filter through all the SnS people that joined up.. Cheers though - got a feeling could have been the number I dialled from work.. might have missed the extra 0 at the front to get outside line.. only just thought of that.. Links