T04GTR

yes, well the vq35hr is a gun engine, but im abit greedy. from my own personal experiences, about 800whp is the "reliable" limit for a stock block with rods and pistons and a good ecu. 900-950 and it starts flexing the liners to much and head gasket sealing is a problem. got some sleeves for it to fix that problem. and the precision 88mm pro mod turbo will need that... i have a vk45de ready to put together, the 41awd has always been a idea i wanted to play with. but for what i am planning EVERYTHING needs to be changed. but, the 41 is an oddball thing. head gaskets, cams and the rocker arm issue with big cams is a problem. that, and they just dont exist much anymore. same for the vk45de really. but, the vk shares alot of bits with the vk56, so aftermarket support is better. im torn between the 2. the blocks are comparable in strength, the vk head is alot better. but the vh has a diff already mounted. but it would have to be moved forward. vk head gaskets are mls, and easy to find. all the valve gear is vq, so easy and reliable to 8500rpm. and its a narrower engine. but is just ugly... expensive and silly decision for a looks thing. i dont know...

stuff it... its looking like i should sleeved it from the get go.. 12yrs later and ive come full circle,, pistons all have cracked skirts, little ends of the pistons are flogged out from the piston being distorted and banged arround in the wobbly bore.. and the liners are out of round 6 thou up the top.. this is the solution...

yeah. to costly to get a stock engine, then another 6k in mods to make it usable.. (1500whp...) on another note, it would appear ive come full circle... lol...

all well and good, but where do you get a vk56de from... i am looking..

lol.... 12yrs later, ive come full circle. doing the same research... vq killing my life

clutch is my fault. didnt leave enough clearance for the release bearing to come back, so its riding on it.. if your not breaking them, your not trying hard enough.. alloy rod oil pressure is weird. really low at idle, but really high once the revs are up. (20@idle-110@4k+) i did shim up the nismo pump. and old engine had really loose oil clearances.

made it to the maccas, but the radiator decided it didnt want to go.. leaking at all 4 corners... looses about 1 liter every 20 mins or so.. so i took it back to the shop.. hope it was a good drive. its been a while, i didnt recognize anyone..

long time between posts. but this thing just doesnt want to go back together cleanly.. hears what happened.: got it in and running. promply snapped a camshaft.. fixed that, then it kept loosing water. coolant top pipe "o" ring split.. fixed that, dyno.. again mystery water strains.. and was pinging bad over 15psi.. fixed, fuel pressure issue. raped it. stuck at 900 atw on 98... checked the logs, clutch f**ked. so it just drives through a twin 230mm carbon clutch like its nothing.. on the street 15psi felt like 20 on the old motor.so we are making some torque.. just left it like that... got it all ready to go for the sau cruise today. made it to the maccas, but when filling up i came out to a river of coolant under the front of the car... flamin mongreling radiator leaking from 6 tube joints.. (probs got hurt when the head gasket blew from before...) the big fan just works to well. it manages to keep it cool even though its missing 3L of water..then it doesnt because there no water to cool anymore.. limped it back to wetheril park. (never went over 90) so there we have it. kunt thing just keeps throwing curve balls at me..

should be as near to 90 degrees to the actuator for predictable boost control. its still a leaver. if you have to steep an angle it wont behave smoothly because of the lever ratio of the back pressure acting on the arm. also, if you have a "back pressure" issue, you can change the angle to a steeper one to make it "harder" for the back pressure to blow the gate open.

pretty well mostly done. also weird cam timing to suit r35 vr38 cams. (same basic engine with same pitch chain, just a taller block and hence different dowel locations for the cams. ) but uses the same cam gears

coming together. hard to find the time. studs tensioned to 120lf/lbs all ok no bore distortion either big ass intake ports, (the main thing that sold me on the vq platform) had to "shorten" the oil squirter banjo bolts about 1mm rods came a little to close for comfort, also "king racing" main bearings are sized for a flogged out bottom size crank journal... had 1 thou main clearance with the "standard" size... so another 220 dollars later for the standard-extra size.. 2.5 ish on the mains, 2 on the big ends. modified the oil passages behind the timing cover plates for better oil flow. was really shit from factory..

thanks mate. yeah sounds ok, but you need equal length pipes and a short y pipe for it to not sound like a chainsaw. https://www.facebook.com/100009048704662/videos/1908770276101244/ https://www.facebook.com/ben.sinclair.568/videos/10155718413276154/

thanks mate. about 100 grams lighter, but the pin is heavier. so more reciprocating but less rotational weight. the thing revs like motorbike anyway. way overkill, but will be interesting to see how they go. it was the cheapest way to get a ford bearing in there. custom pro h carillos would be 2k+ usd. mayby on the next one if this works. just getting rid of the graded nissan bearing was the main reason. as they were getting pounded.(mains aswell, only have 4 bearings doing the work of 7..) went in with 2 thou. cam out with 5... after 6500km.. i think they would be ok up to about 7-750 hp but not at 1100hp.. (engine) its all on the pointy end of all of it. cosworh emailed me and said the pistons are good to 800hp.. we will see

rods arrived. now the fun begins

so it popped a head gasket.. the of the shelf arp studs for the vq weren't up to the task.. the bores are all ok, as it just pushed the middle layer out. i stripped it down, and noticed the wrist pins were bent. 160 wall off the shelf cosworth pins.. the bearings were ok, but were clearly being over loaded with 1000hp at the wheels..as the are the oem shells, and all that is available is the oem graded bearings. no good. after looking at my big end journal size, 2.1246" and 17mm wide, ford winsor, 2.1234" 17.2mm so i will be taking only 1.2 thou!! to make a factory off the shelf ford bearing work i will be using a bme aluminum rod with doweled bearings. (and yes, you can use them on the street.. just need to have the oil temp regulated between 60 and 90 degc on the head stud situation.. im using vr38 studs, have to drill and tap/insert the block for them, but will be alot stronger. pistons are still quite good, no real sign of being at there limit, apart from the pins deforming and flogging out the little end bush in the rods, il just be using some 200-220 wall pins. i have got some cosworth head gaskets for it too. (had stock hr gaskets.) so now its just a waiting game for the rods, then game on