T04GTR

thats really cool. now i just need hats to suit. "f50" style. im pretty sure there a standard ofset in japan.. i will have to do some homework/ask people to find out lol. thanks richard

yes, me to!!

had a great time, and thanx to all who orgonised it. and james (lingering soul) for giving us a lift

from the sounds of it the list you have there is a good 8k drive in drive out

umm your not meant to pull them apart. if there anything like ate calipers thel be a wierd ass copper seal in there that you cant get anywhere lol

in terms of arms id say the traditional midori ones on the front are the go. the rear id say ikeya formula. very nicly mae and extreemly good quality rose joints. cusco rears always sieze up. the plating on the rose joint seems to react with that of the arm its self. heaps gay halfway threw a wheel alignment. really 6 degrees? thats heaps. i can only get 3.5 max. hmmn mayby ive got them on the wrong way again lol. il mesure the lenth tomorrow..

well these are behind 17's. (yes they fit. i theoreticly can run a 360mm rotor. but thats with about 1mm clearance to the rim. i dont want a stone getting caught in there and cutting my wheel inhalf lol. the calipers are the "f50" brembo. same as a big red but suited to bigger discs. i think ther known as "big blacks" v8 ones would be ok. but i need hats aswell. oh this is going to be gay. yeah the dba ones arnt deep enough. and the same money as brembos.

bang for buck get one of the "engine kits" from hi octane etc etc . and good hoice in the halteck. i just hate airflow meters

i beam is better for torsonal loads ie.. hitting boost. h beams can be made lighter. it really depends on what your aiming for. then you got the whole wich brand argument lol. from the look of it youd be safe to use some cheap china made h or i beams like eagle, scat and some of the sub 1000 a set i beams.

woops cant read lol 8000 should be ok. but no higher.

what rods?, what flywheel?

keep it factory or be prepared for a 15k bill to do it right.

mainly reliability. fuels etc etc. if i rana workshop i wouldnt build up a motor, hand over the keys and go hey, pump 2 bar thru it . sik mate sik. is it a bush bearing turbo? mayby therre woried it might shag the trust bearing. with more boost.

hahahahah i got the same manifold aswell. still hasnt craked and doesnt look like it is going to any time soon lol. hmm looks like im going to have to turn the boost up. oh. ps.. when you got yours deliverd did it say "sample diesel pipes" on the invoice to avoid tax lol.

it will fit. as they came with rb's anyway. a generic highmount will fit. the x-force one is pretty good. it sits the turbo further back so theres more room for intake stuffs and clearance of the power steering resovior. dump pipe is abit of a chalenge. but not that hard.

ij any day of the week. but. transmissons arnt as lego-like as a nissan.

what

those dixel ones are 700 each in japan lol

i know i know. gay

well i usaly get 10k out or a set of pads. not 60k so id say you need new brakepads

id say you need a new hydrolic unit. (the thing ontop of the diff.) the wiring is pretty good. but just check that is all intact undernieth.

direct clutch i think.

dont get a single. it will shuddder and eat your flywheel. jim bery in qld rebuilds the os ones for i think around 1100. rated to heaps. the rebild kit from os giken as roughly a grand. yuo need to find out what sort of twin plate it is. steel cover or alloy,205 or 215mm plates.

i asume your talking about an aussie deliverd r31? best to have a stab in a vl commodore forum. as there the same. just 5 stud. oh and some are drum brake.

very tru. but the fact the "alarm" was disabled is the worst part. at my old work they stole 4 cars and ram raided etc etc . the cops couldnt find any solid evidance so.. they turned artound and blammed my boss and tryd to convict him of the thefts. i hate thieves and i hate retarded fresh coppers straight from goulbourn.