T04GTR

hahah i had a great time. go so smashed i felt heaps good at work on friday :s

photos already

hi all. i need to know the diferance in the interchangability between 32/33/34gtr suspension. i know the tops are diferant. but what about the bottom. in paticular the rears. like. is there a length diferance? or is is neglegable. any info would be much apreciated. as im about to buy some 33/34 aftermarket suspension. cheeres

someone pick me up please

i have both front and rear available. (whiteline ones with the links). cheap. im really after the standard ones. so a cash adjustment will do. theyre quite good. im doing some r and d.

ahahah cool. i was having a joke lol. yeah it should be a pretty humbeling session lol.

thats f**ked. keep an eye on ebay and trackdays. thats so shit. sory to here dude

oh i know anna. hehehhehe its gonna be mad!!! if gotta practice my aaron style stomach re-freshing

sik. im looking forward to it

cool. what prize do you want for winning hehe. whats been hapening with it?

whats the retail on that. *ferarri**revs engine*

just overnight some parts from japan. sik mate sik

location?

howcome no pics? just blank out the numberplate? who complied it? reciepts for motor? who built the motor? what clutch has it got? all are valid questions. pm me if you dont want anyone to see it for whatever reason.

heheheh @ box of tissues in background

oh, driveline is fine. just run it in on the stock ecu with stock injectors. or get a quick "safe" tune in it before.

for a referance our race civic motor we put it together and installed it. started it up,bled the coolant and went straight to the dyno. after 10 mins it was hitting 9 grand without issue. doesnt use oil,no blowby and doesnt turn the oil black in 1 race lol

at no time should you limmit revs to a pathetic 4k. if you do that you run the risk of scratching the bores one you rev it up. what happens is as the rings bed in a very small lip is formed at the top and bottom of where they run. and as you rev it the rods stretch a tiny amount. efectivly making the pistons travel further up and down. if its only used to 4k for 1000kms and then give it a bootfull the rings will get dammaged. so after the first 100 kms slowly bring the revs up to your max revs over a period of around 150kms. once yove eased it in to that you need to just drive it normaly and give it some moderatly loaded revving. like back to second to overtake etc etc.

from my experiance this method gives the best result. 100 kays of light duty reving. (traffic but not much ideling) drop oil. and filter 500 kays of "normal driving" on low boost with shit oil. drop oil and filter next 500 kays of normal driving with a resonable oil of the same viscosity as what you want to run. on moderate boost. say 1 bar. so after 1000 kays its readdy to rev and be given a hard time. dont drop the oil for 2000 kays. after that its gonna be bedded in nicly. and not use oil or blow smoke or have heaps of blowby (depends what clearances your running)

madness

hmm. well your gonna have to give it a quick checkover. check the wastgate actuator rod hasnt poped off the turbo wastegate flap. all hoses tight?

yep

PUT ME IN

lol my name is LAGMASTER

il be there (running)