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T04GTR

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Everything posted by T04GTR

  1. they do look quite laggy with not much stick. you need to get a graph wich shows the boost curve to asses the lag. you never know. it could just be a blocked cat or something.
  2. dba make em. not listed but. about 300 a side of the top of my head
  3. federal ss595 are very good value. abit mooshy at first but really good grip if your willing to push it. my 255-40-17's were 190 each
  4. hmm. il just ad this to the list lol
  5. thats good. f50 brakes aka 355mm and big reds are a good package. ive got f40 brakes on the front of mine (343mm disc) and there way to small. they can overheat really badly on the track. but thats my fault for using generic brake fluid lol the white brembo writing on the caliper is now a nice shade of brown. just to give an idea of how hot they get. pads are fine. just fliud boiling is an issue.
  6. rda are made in korea or taiwan lol
  7. dont get an "e-damage" there not to crash hot. well from all the tuners ive spoken to anyway. it doesnt really mater. anything that doesnt use a closed loop 02 sensor as a input will drink fuel
  8. yeah. normal. malpasis are the worst. at least you'l be able to here when your running out of fuel lol
  9. dont be a dodgy basted
  10. oh wait. neo's are solid lifter. hmm. posibly a dodgy oil filter draining out when the engine sits. get a decent quality oil filter.
  11. tired lifters. put some "lifter free" in it. nulon $10
  12. in throey. if its dirty it will take more voltave to keep the element hot. given the same volume of air. coz the dirt will be insulating the film. give it a clean(if its dirty) this will restore it to the factory parameters. if that makes any sense. also oiled type air flow meters are no good for longevity on any hotwire or thick film afm (z32) it oils up the element and the dust sticks to it.
  13. this is why i prefer map sensor equipped ecu's. coz your not relying on a sensor that gets blasted with dust and shit all its life
  14. well. it must of been making some power to reach the limit of the z32 afm. to much fuel can cause pinging. not directly, but by carbon buildup in the cylinders. this glows and causes pinging. not detonation. this is a pretty obviouse question but there isnt any air leaks is there? also worth checking is the timing. if the cas hasnt been done up tightly it can move and the timing can change.
  15. hmm. interesting. fuel in it ? it will smell like fuel. but its just oil from blowby. most of the time if an engine is worn all will be whithin 10% of each other. unless theres a busted ringlad or something
  16. mine does that. it pises out the breather on the top when driven had. like badly. you need to put a longish hose on it so it raises it up abit. later ones had a small checkvalve in them. to keep them shut longer.
  17. ok. there a c**t if you get air in them. i found you need to back off the master cylinder so theres heaps of freeplay. then bleed it normaly. do the big pipe one first. then the slave.
  18. check the oil condition. if its all burnt then thats the first sign. if its lazy kicking down. like it disengages and revs then goes clunk into gear, aka flaring. noisy operation. like whining sound. basicly just being sloppy.
  19. that is very low power. and thats some pretty huge leakdown aswell. ps. arp dont make bolts for rb's people stick vg30 ones in them (abit dodgy) umm. are you sure the cam TIMING is corect. is the vct working or jammed? how often do you need to empty the catchcan? why was ir rebuilt? is you cat rooted from the old motor filling it with oil?
  20. yeah as long as you have the side flanges with the new diff it will bolt up. i was refering to the drive shft flanges
  21. the 3/8 drive plug on the ver back of the transfercase about halfway up. it should be up to that leval. fill it threw the gearboot.
  22. smoke. hmm gts4. well thats auto fluid filled in there. id be promptly checking the oil level.
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