T04GTR

bang!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! piss off the buterfly valve. i remember wrxhoon (i think) haveing the SAME PROBLEM with the t04r setup. it was shuting with the incresed power. they are a stupid idea. and also if its on bakwards it will be blowing shut lol 100% thats the pronblem

thats good power for 18 pound

.84

on mine its 1bar at 4000 bang on

whats the "spl" comp housing worth anyway? (.8a/r)

nice work ps.. black out the file name to. its got your rego number aswell lol akk64t

direct swap. your dif ratio is 3.54:1 33 is 4.11:1 so it heaps shorter. you may have some driveshaft issues if yours is a v-spec or has the a-lsd. and the motors gotta come out for the sump

abit more info is good so you are only getting rear wheel drive ? does the torque guage move?

tru tru

coool twin ta45's lol

well im stumped. so weve got both actuators on, and holding tight. if its got airflow meters, and runs fine but not boosting then its the turbos or a blocked exhaudt. thats all it could be. otherwise the car would run like shit under load if there was an air leak, soo its on the exhaust side the problem

i prefer autronic. but.. need a trigger disc for the crank angle sensor. power fc. your relying on airflow meters. which i hate. and most of the time there 10yrs old. powerfc is a plug in. autronic has better contol of injectors (resolution) and the software is heaps easy to use. power fc is a good unit that is made in korea. (most "jap" ecus are and that includes oem ecu's.) i just prefer autronic. at the end of the day it all down to the tune

recalling back to my subaru school training. on a wrx at idle the turbo spins at between 15000-22000rpm

that is a supercharger pretty much. interesting idea but.

headlight switch plug is probably melted. or the switch is gone. quite common

you do have to remove all the front covers unfortonatly. that includes the front crank pully. sorry the only solution it to pretty much do the belt again,without taking the belt off

full stop

if its to tight (very common mistake) it makes a wir wir wir wir noise if its to loose it makes a flap flap flap noise. the belt tension adjustment needs to be as follows. with the belt on and the tensioner not done up...wind the motor over to take up the slack in the belt. then simply lock off the tensioner. (thats what the spring is for lol ) hope that helps

the timing belt is to tight

anything over about 3grand or max oil pressure most of the oil is diverted through the relief valves. (all 4 of them) all oil filters use the same media. if its a paper one. they atre made to meet cirtan industry standards. the diferance is the "anti drainback valve" and the sealing flange gasket material. yeah castrol egde prducts are as follows.. edge ow-40=castrol slx (synthetic) edge 5w30=castrol txt softec " " edge 10w60=formular R " " edge 25w50=GP50 (mineral) they were re labled to apeal to the younger car enthusiast.

if its wirrering then yes. if it just makes a thud then its probably your diff bushes being hammerd. mine does that cos there alll shagged

get under the dash and "back off" the clutch master cyl push rod. it should be nice and floppy. same goes on the gearbox. if the clutch fok is hard up against the front of the hole in the bellhousing you need a shorter bearing carrier. it to shold be floppy when not in use

it is bieing NORMAL it sends torque to the front on aceleration not just wheel spin. this is it anticipating wheel slip. bare in mind it takes a throttle position input as a main input. not just wheelspin as what most people think. so driving along in say 3rd gear at around 3k. you floor it and evan befor it comes up on boost the front wheels are already being fed power. if you think about it. the system has a degree of "lag" in its operation, in the form of relays,pumps,solinoids,actual moving of the fluid and also the slack in the transfercase and front drivelines. this is the main diferance between 32's and 33/34gtr's the 32's dont run any "preload" on the transfer case clutch. where as the latter is preloaded. to give a quicker responce time. i know its not very smart,but its job is to asume your about to get up it as soon as you put your foot down. so dont stess its perfectly normal. hope that helps ps... make sure the diagnostic plug is not pluged in. ie bleed mode. to evan up the rolling diameter i had a similar problem when i put new tyres on the front and had bald ones on the back. it was fixxed with new tyres on the back.

id go a os-giken twin plate. they cop a hiding. my old ts2bd (480ps rating) put up with my 430hpatw gtr till i simply just upgraded for the hell of it to a nismo tripple. the os was like a stock clutch compared to this nismo one omg its a prick to drive. although i spose any 1000ps rated solid centre tripple would be the one id recomend is the TS2CD model. not sure on the price but it would be a good choise for both power handeling and drivability.

lol