T04GTR

get a new clutch. it will start slipping really hard before you know it.

detailed photos are a necesity. close ups of all the parts. with mesurements showing amount of usable material left

chech ebay. rhdjapan seems to have acess to the bits quite cheap

as far as im aware series 3 is pull. pull clutch is 250mm push is 240mm so id go with pull one.. but your gearbox will be the decider. IE: push or pull?

turbo = 240mm plate non-turbo= 225mm both push. diferant flywheel

cool. just had to put one in a 32 non turbo! was klnocking at all revs regardless of wich gear. it turnes out that gay little bearing on the sandwich plate failed. countershaft. (bearing race ball cage came apart.) suprise suprise. so it seems it really is luck of the draw really. concidering a na. rb20 completly stock lunched it lol

2 way mechanical lsd. not a bad diff. not to tight

r30 na and some honda are the only cars fitted with that pad. get some r31 calipers and discs (hub)

they are poo. many times ive seen stock boosed one snap :

dun no mate. what cams? is that the manufacturers recomendation? put the degree wheel on the crank. (lined up etc etc) ie: o degreese on the wheel lined up with the orange mark on the pully ,the first mark=top dead (0deg)turn it till eg: (as per above specs) :7 degrees before top dead centre on the degree wheel. with a dial guage on the no1 inlet cam valve bucket... adjust the cam till it starts to open it. etc etc. basicly so you achieve the desired timing. cheers. to have it more acurate you need a setting that gives you a 50thou lift @ ..degrees etc.. if that makes any sence. if you dont know what im crapping on about id recomend you get a mechanic to do it for you as you can run into problems easily... cheeres

so when its cold it hesitates under boost? if it doesnt pop and fart its a airflow meter. if it pops and bangs and still trys to rev but is really rough its spark plugs

hmm. looks like there a new 250 degree cam. (from the pic on the site) posibly to retain a nice idle

FLAME-ON. BLA BLA

yes. changing i aslo agree

for christ sake dont tighten the caps just from the center out.. you need to tighten them down moving away from the loaded lobes..

nup. thats how there ment to be ps... id be replacing your pad retaining pin, pin its all bent

ok. the 324mm 33/34/gtr discs/calipers will do a really good job. you would get away with using the caliper on a biger disc. but there only a baby caliper. my advise is to stick with the standard 324mm discs. save up for some good ol big reds and the 355mm disc combo the rears will need attention. ive cracked 3 rear ones just from old raod outings they dont like getting bright orange very much. i upgraded the rears to 34gtr/33gtr brembo 2 pot ones and discs. they work really well. still get a nice dull red glow but. the fronts are f40 brembo's343mm 2 piece floating discs. they get orange. i used to have the 33gtr fronts. they really good. you just need good brake linings.

yes they are marginaly bigger. but stil crap. if there free go for it

yes.. you have to have it jacked up to chech those ball joints/tie rod ends.. just try and rock the wheel from side to side.(as if your trying to move the rack in and out) but mine a rooted and there not noisy : you never know its probably just the exhaust hitting on something for a suspension member to be making noise its gotta be heaps farked..so it should stick out fairly obviously...

ok... its got nothing to do with the oil pressure.could be a number of things.. check the spark plugs. it sounds like there no good. but it could be either a fuel pressure related problem. or an airflow meter. but backfires tell me the sparks getting blown out take it to a workshop ad get them to check the fuel pressure ASAP..!~!

yeah. there the same. there might be some very small diferances internaly. but they would be negligable..

no. it wont be happy

makes no differance at all although #1 with the flow reversed will have a better effect for self bleeding

ok... asuming you know your way around an engine.. the only advise i have is once you have the cam sitting in the journals tention the bearing caps down really slowly and in an evan staggerd way. (dont do one cap up all the way as the cam WILL snap!!!) hand start all the caps before you slowly tension up each one abit at a time.. paying atention to the caps that sit near the valve buckets which the lobes are trying to open...if that makes any sence.. (should only be 2 at a time) the tension on the caps is 10nm. (just niped up) same with the 4 pully bolts there done up to 15nm max.

im guessing full noise by 4500 ish