T04GTR

hi all. just a quick one, whers the atessa ecu located in a stagea. or more importantly how do you extract fault codes from the 4wd system. is it a flash code from the atessa ecu or the dash light. thanx in advance cheeres

r34 gtt is a pull clutch. same as r33 GTR (250mm) r33,32 early 32gtr all push all the same clutch (240mm) to keep the 250mm flywheel use a 300zx tt pressure plate and disc (250mm push)

ok. well due to the late notice make it 3pm departure ish

dont you trust yourself???

2.30 pm @thornliegh maccas kthanx. heading northish viar some "scenic"roads

but are differant. but work. the 10mm bolt somtimes doesnt line up. but meh

but it works for me and others wih no bad outcomes. but the factory setup is crap and needs atention.. a good oil pressure guage is a very nessesary tool for ironing out this engine destroying fault. see for your self and im sure youl be alarmed at how much it surges with the oil leval on full. just in a straight line. the best test is to do it when its cold going up a hill.

yess. this is for us who couldent be botherd to fab up a 10 litre sump with the usual baffeling

the water pump seals are squeeky.. if lost count on how many na-33s ive replaced the waterpumpon to get rid of the mad scream at idle for some reason its the non turbo ones ive had trouble with. go to holden and buy some (coolant or water pump pellets) they lube up the seals on the pump. if not you need a water pump.

for those of uss who are after a good "band aid" fix simply fill the oil leval to the "hump" on the dipstick. works for me. i tested it using a mechanical oil pressure guage looking for oil surge. at the drags and at wakfield park with good tyres. anything below the hump and the presure would bounce like crazy. this is for my street driven gtr with no baffeling etc etc. so if you are thinking about any track work or nasho runs and the like and drags i strongly sugest you fill er up to the hump. works out to be about an extra 1.0-1.5 litres extra. so if you want to keep all of those legs in bed then doooo-it.. ps... it doesnt fill up the catch can any extra either.

its a single blade terminal on the oil filter housing on the bottom. it can be seen from looking from the bottom directly above the front diff

i dont think they like like the 2 stage voltage feed that is used for the factory one. you need to hook a direct earth to pump negative. also hook a direct 12v feed to the positive of the pump. to bypass the factory fuel pump controler. so it gets a constant 12v feed.(the relay is next to the boot fuse box)

pretty normal for an old aftermarket arm to knock. the bearings just get dry and rusty. you could deal with the noise or take them out and go to a bearing shop like cbc bearings and get new ones for it. ball bearings arnt expencive, probably under 5 bucks each for the ones in the arms. i was gonna do mine but couldnt be botherd.

yes it will

yeah the number is painted on the bottom of the spring where it sits on the lower mount.

id need to get the dampers rebuilt to suit as they are on the limit for fast street on the bump settings(ie bottoms out) but working for a v8 supercar team ive learnt that its all in the damper itsself. you can get away with a lower spring rate if the damper can adsorb it for you. just turn up the high speed bump a couple of clicks.... but with our run o the muck shit we need hevier springs to stop the botoming out. corect me if im wrong but thats my undestanding of it anyway

yes, if you doing it at home a whel brace is fine for doing it up. just get a long screwdriver and brace the hub with it(so it doesnt spin) make shure you put some greace on the thread. it will make it easier.

yess, we had a customer who had some "coil overs" out of the box they had 13kg/mm springs front and 8kg/mm rear. i changed them to 9 in the front and 7 in the rear. much better but the bump valving on the front is now to soft. if i get them rebuilt to suit the lighter springs they would be very good. im using some wierd jap bilstiens in my 32gtr and they are sweet. still quite firm but the bump on the front needs to be harder. as the shock/suspension bottoms out on big bumps the rebound is spot on from what i can tell. no pogo sticking down the road. i would sujust the coilovers if you get them re-valved for the lighter springs. ps. the g4 ones seem exacly the same as the k-sport ones in spring rates. they need to be re-valved for the lighter spring. (having a lower power gtr walk away from you on the old pac with old ohlins stut inserts.(same as bilstien kit you are deciding on) made me go back to the bilstiens. havent looked back. but mine are a jap spec kit with hevier springs than the aussie ones so the work great. gtst id say 7kg front 6kg rear i just want the sachs 4way adjustabels out of the v8 supercar im helping for that way you could use 375lb front and 300lb rear springs in you car with 280 slicks and still be to hard on the springs

yess, we had a customer who had some "coil overs" out of the box they had 13kg/mm springs front and 8kg/mm rear. i changed them to 9 in the front and 7 in the rear. much better but the bump valving on the front is now to soft. if i get them rebuilt to suit the lighter springs they would be very good. im using some wierd jap bilstiens in my 32gtr and they are sweet. still quite firm but the bump on the front needs to be harder. as the shock/suspension bottoms out on big bumps the rebound is spot on from what i can tell. no pogo sticking down the road. i would sujust the coilovers if you get them re-valved for the lighter springs. gtst id say 7kg front 6kg rear i just want the sachs 4way adjustabels out of the v8 supercar im helping for that way you could use 375lb front and 300lb rear springs in you car with 280 slicks and still be to hard on the springs

ive seen the back of them on juds one. basicly the same design as the ta45 ta51 gt42 garrett compressor with the small holes feeding the lower group of blades. just with a pretty cover bolted on instead of the usual 3 or 4 ports on the comp cover. but yeah no pics. im sure if you pm judd hel give you more info. hope that helps.

ok, heres the part number that is stamped on the damper body front:1799 B46 1916HO rear: 648 1792 H000 hope someone can give me some info on them... thanks in advance

8kg/mm front 7kg/mm rear

NO, the bottom mount on the rear is diferant

depending on what pistons you are using just make it clear that they get the piston/bore clerance correct probably the most critical part of the build. and yes torque plate honing is recomended(dummy head bolted to the block)

hmmm. interesting. ive never really stoppped by. well when i wasd little driving up to brisbane with the folks... omg --agony