T04GTR

there really is not much to it.. anything over a 4 stage is overkill. + hard to mount. they get pretty long. also the pump style is important aswell. a simple aviad spur gear pump is basic, not pull much vacume but will take alot of crap. or a uber expencive auto-verdi roots style pump is better but higher maintenance and pull heaps of vacume. anything over 12-15 inches of vac will ware out little ends my fave is dailey engineering ones. robust and roots style scavenge. you also want one with a built in scavenge manifold for easier plumbing. bare in mind the price of hose and fittings. eg -12's and -16's range from $50-$100 per fitting for anything other than a straight. hose -12 $40-150 a meter and -16 $50-230 a meter our race car at work used 9 meters of -16 2m or -12 and 5m of -10. 10 -16 fittings 4 -10's and 7 -12's...... or and 3 -16 45 degree bulkheads and a -10 bulkhead. the pump is a SMALL PERCENTAGE of the cost.

i would stick to 260's max. one thing ive noticed with the "bolt ons" its very hard to get it sorted with big cams. back pressure kills power production. those cams will be good with a single.

as above. but the pintle caps do not have any effect on the spray. they are they as a protector from impact etc etc.

there are better and easier ways to go faster..

yes. just swap then out. but you will have to get it done buy a diff place.

the fact that its got an external oil pump negates the need for it..

evan if the surface isnt as smooth as recomended, i always apply vht copper gasket cement. regardless

what surface finish was on the head and block ? was it like a mirror or could you see the nice radial machining marks?

if that was the only one rooted. its picked up some shit and scuffed the bearing. NOT DETONATION. i seen the exact same thing on my gf engine after a dodgy oil cooler install. no3 bigend and main destroyed. the rest were perfect... it happens. the problem is at those revs you cant hear it start to go till its ruined. was the crank grubscrewed?

new spigot bearing needed. make sure when you get a new one you sit it in engine oil for a few days. before fitting.

thats no good about the engine! from past experiance no3 or 4 spinning and the rest of the bearings ok tells me oil debis. as they are the first to get oil. and the first to get any contaminants aswell. where as if its no 1 or 6 then id look at oil starvation as a posible cause as they are the last to get oil. unless a grub screw fell out or something..

it is also used as a throttle control. yes well as soon as this american sends my the right photos the ball will be rolling.....

yes. if you could get a smaller ex housing. then it would be ok. so and "t78 or tdo7 housing will work.

well thats basicly a of the shelf td07 from a truck. think of it as a really big t67-25g. the td07 is quite popular on rotaries. as they push out alot of exhaust gasses for what goes in. think of it like a t04z with a 1.32 or so ex housing.

arnt typa a's only recomended for 10.5mm max lift? thats asking alot from a valve spring. you always want atleast 1mm up your sleave for reliability

well. im embarking on a vq35hr awd conversion yes awd out of a infinity in the usa. while im doing the conversion im going to be running the stock rwd 6 speed just to get it going/engineering etc etc. thats untill i can modify my r32 gearbox or a r34gtr gearbox to suit the vq bellhousing. (not same as vq30/35. same as vq40 navara) that with my borg warner s400sx3 will just fry everywhere. so i would not remove the 4wd. for the street its just to much fun being pinned into the seat rather than dissapering into a cloud of tyre smoke..

also worth mentioning is the jap stuff doen not add much seat pressure to the setup. mayby 10lb's or so. so big boost or backpressure you will bo better with the usa stuff.

just get the supertech set up. double springs titanium retainers and good for 13mm lift. about 600 deliverd

the sr20ve has a system similar to honda vtec. the new nissan ve or vvel is a wierd ass system with only the exhaust cam and a a very strage rocker/eccentric set up. i do prefer the 35hr wich you can buy an number of differant cams for them. if i was going to leave it stock then the 37 would be a great choice. but i would not be able to use the factory ecu to control it as its integrated into the whole car. ie: remove the radio and it wont start.... here is the skope of the vvel intake cam lift and is capable of an impressive 13mm lift factory

get the 27-65-18. front tyre for gt3-rsr. also used on a few production sport cars too. ive got a couple stacking up in my garage. (used to work for the utes and lots left after each meeting...) they do fit under my missus r33 gtst. so 32 gtr wouldnt be an issue. but a wheel with +22 or greater will help fitment. (guard clearance) z32 wheels with a custom bolton spacer thickness would be the easiest option

hey guys. just about to do a vq35hr awd conversion into my r32.. just need to know if any companys make aftermarket 4.11 gears for the front diff. seem a shame to not be able to use my ppg 5 speed in the car.

lol. well the rwd sump is all of 130usd direct from infinity parts in usa. just so cheap for all that stuff. there are a few with bolt on turbos with stock internals running 6-10 pound making 500hp at wheels. (dyno dynamics) so the hp potential shits all over the good ol rb....

just getting it bolted in is the main challenge. i do predict some extreeme x member mods/removal. with engine mount brackets fabricated to the chassis rails. and a custom light weight steering rack x member.

the rb diff is about a foot from the rear. if anything the vq one is about the same. mayby abit less. just going off the photo

that will have to be seen once it gets here. worst case there will be lots of room for the firewall stuff and/or room for some turbos.