T04GTR

IL BE THRE

yep, pretty standard

8th of march ... bring it

hmmmmmmmmmmm :

i just used the workshop manuel. followd the nessesary test steps and bingo. fixed.

just read the thread page 8

this will pretty much work with any aftermarket ecu. or anything that doesnt send info to the attessa or a-lsd ecu

hahah my birthdays the 26th

nissan "matic d" or castrol tranzmax z. or if your poor tq dextron 3.

: ok people. my gtr is being a pain in the arse. driven hard (old pac etc) the power steering simply stops working mid corner. then cuts in at the exit or when you arnt pushing it.. : the hicas has been removed all together(did it before i removed it too) anyone with a r32 have this problem ps.. has plenty of oil in it and the pump doesnt groan. the rack isnt leaking either... any help is much apreciated. before i start throwing coin at a rack and pump

yes, il be ditching mine soon, too loud, in my opinion only 10 sec cars should have them. a whole lot of noise for not much pace(my case anyway)

My 2 cents. t04e turbo corectly set up works very well indeed. in my dr30 i had a rb26 with 260 poncams,pistons etc... it had a t04e (tw41) bush bearing. "o"trim turbine in a .84 split housing(euro flange/t3 flange) "60"trim comp wheel in a .7 cover (14blade/7uper/lower) on a himout manifold i made myself with 1.5" od 316 ss runners(1.1/4" id) IT MADE 325.9RWKW on sas dyno on 1 bar. spiking to 1.1bar. bleed tap no good.... full boost by 3500rpm loaded up. 4000-4100 in 1st 2nd gears so t04e is not a bad combo. ps, recently dynoed my gtr with a t04z (internaly stock completly) it made 315.6 on sas dyno. on 1.2 bar so going backwards with a bigger turbo is posible *spewing*

89 gtr. 195000ks 315.6awkw t04z on 1.2bar autronic smc/cdi engine is un-opened dead stock just the turbs bolted on. 044,bosch 363 injectors. 3 inch exaust, trust front mount yada yada... left dyno sheet at work. will edit it in later :

because they are ghey. and dont want people to know it takes less than 5 minuets to fix any time lol

yes, the a-lsd works exacly like the attessa system in a gtr it needs rpm,and tps to work,(others too, but irelavent for this) the power fc. does not "relay" the tps signal to the alsd/abs ecu. all that needs to happen to restore a-lsd is for the tps signal wire that goes to the a-lsd(pin 56) to be spliced directly int the sensor wire its self (pin 38) one problem that i did encounter is the power fc outputs 5 volts from that pin for some wierd reson. so snip,problem fixed OR JUST GET A POWER-FC FOR AN AUTO TRANS CAR LOL

mad a vintage car. 1 wheel drive sik

cool cool

hahah indeed. i knew it was you. i remember your psycho brake pad noises :lol: i havent been up there for ages hmmm "the old road" eah. let me see.........corners n shit=yay hows the motor going anyway?

envy imports. www.envyimports.com.au got a couple of na beasts/ located on the northern beaches :lol:

pretty sure i saw mik?(can tell that brake noise anyware) and some others posibly coming back from the old road at 2.30 am the smorning heading to thornleigh maccas <_< :lol:

yep yep

dude thats the shizel. makes me want my dr30 back. (rb26,450@wheels :lol: ) stupid magna t-boned it) if only i had the cash. not being a time waster but i couldent not say anything. good shit. youl move it for sure. try the vic area. i= noticed lots down there. ps.you dont need a brand new bootlid do you? ive got one pps. thats got some really exencive hard to get stuff on it to. ie sus,cast manifold,front bar,watanabies etc easily 10g in cool shit oh yeah and the diff$$$

ummm. not very clear. posible for a closeup? but yeah sam did talk to me about it lol etc etc

ps.. the bloody input shat bearing is the last to go. its quite large. the first one to go is the countershaft bearing on the sandwich plate. or the input shaft gear itsself. this is speaking from experiance having poped 12 fj20 boxes over the past by the sound of it youve iether galled a mainshaft bearing(most likly)(the ones the driven gears spin indipendantly on) or done a sandwich plate countershat bearing. either way. its easy to check anyway. if its noisy in 1st. its the counter bearing. if its noisy in 2nd or 3rd its the maishaft ones. if the noise goes away in 4th its the input shaft gear(very unlikly) other than that just drive it and find out what gear its noisiest in. try to keep the revs at around 2000rpm in each gear so you can acuratly guage the noise hpoe that helps

yes it its. toyota. same as the holinger etc but with a little spigot bearing. (im asuming its a input shatft for a box,or a clutch of ebay lol ) nissans 24 spline