T04GTR

hmm iff you reif it in quickly it will crunch as the gears are still spinning in the box for a short time . i dought yuove got a colapsed or broken clutch diaphram spring. can have the same efect

ahah just dont smash it threw the gears and it l be fine :lol: oi howd your front diff roblem go. is that you?

dude. oil is your friend with it ideling in neutral the gears in the box are spinning at engine speed! the transfer case will be sweet as it only spins as you drive chances are youve damaged a bearing in the box from no oil. if it makes a knocking type noise. one of the roller bearing "cages" has broken.(the metal cage that seperates all the ball bearings in a roller bearing) did heaps in my old dr30. not from no oil just revs. the noise will only get louder. so start saving for a box sorry to put the scare on but the reality is it is dying now

yay, all i need now is a damm tune i dont like running 13 psi at the runs. r/t: .373 60' 1.911 330' 5.337 660' 8.142 mph: 87.74 1000' 10.547 et: 12.587 mph: 108.66 i was doing 12.8/9 all night. then fried the clutch, then it slipped abit so i could boost of the line abit. i miss my stock gearbox,pitty about the synchros (190000kms old ) i was doing 1.7 60's in it. stupid tall first gear i had fun, just a shit getting of the line with a first gear that does 85k's, more power perhaps :lol: anyways, she didnt go bang, all practice. haha

any confident mechanic should be able to do it "drive in drive out in about 2.5hours :lol: not a bad clutch, chops up the flywheel but

your a champ. :lol: where do you find this stuff? looks familiar too hmmm *rubs chin*

what ever you do, dont touch the crank pully :lol: all the other ones are fine, but having said that, if you have a bigmac before you drive it you would of made them redundant (with that extra balast of a burger lol)

YEP, you need to bypass the fuel pump controler. (drivers side on the parcel shelf) basicly run a seperate earth to the pump directly, also run a power wire directly to the pump.) the relay is on the side of the boot fuse box. if you can, remove the fuel damper of the fuel line in the tank (the metal thing inbetween the pump and the sender)if it has it.... its purpose is to "dampen" the fuel lines, to stop the hammering noises you get through the lines from the injectors pulsing, this device can cause the pump(bosch roller cell) to cavitate when the fuel is hot. the 1 way valve should be removed off the pump to (unless you use banjo fittings on the pump with a cap bolt on the pump ie:blocks of the thread on the pump fitting with the banjo fitted..)

in the boot. next to the boot latch :lol:

yep. i read it. but i need the japanese options

who knows. as long as it doesnt break

anytime. il do your "oil lines"anytime haha toyota-san :lol: :lol:

tell them there retarderd :lol:

i think those in the pic are 6 inch vg30 ones. if your gona make good power get some aftermarket ones. although dirt has proved its not really nesesary. just insurance. stress relieving somthing that is on the edge is a good idea. but im pretty sure arp doesnt make bolts for the 26. only the vg30. i had to get tomie ones. people use them but the nut doesnt thread on all the way.(dodgy)

try running a direct power wire to the fuel pump. is in bypasing the factory fuel pump controler. also a direct earth mr r32gtr did this for ages. well it kept on staling

im asuming its for a ca18. make sure you use the circlip of the ca18 one also check if the smaller bearing (counter shaft) is the same size. ihad the same issues with my fj20 box delemers. 12 in total

you need to remove the thrust bearing retaining plate. behind that there is 2 bearings. :lol: you need to remove the circlip that goes on the big one. a piston ring expander is a goot tool for it. or a flat circlip plier. hope that helps

cool. not.. is the pedal heaps tight up the top?? ie. is there any freeplay. because ive seen it heaps where the pedal isnt adjusted properly and the clutch mastercyl "pumps up" holding the clutch on abit.. you need to back the pushrod off abit to obtain a small amount of freeplay :lol:

ok geabox gurus...or googalers who makes aftermarket gearsets for the fs5r30a or (gtr 5speed) in japan that is.. os ppg par .... there has to be more. im trying to work out whats in mine. :lol: ps.. helical that is. pps.. in the standard casing

whats with the springs n shit i know. just abit diferant

nice con rods too. all the meat in the right place. did he tell you no one here buys his stuff. and that it all goes to the states? :lol:

il second that. my little ts2bd clutch is feeling the strain. just like taking of in second

you need to check the splines. 28,29,30,or31. then happy days.

its definatly not standard. heaps better and there is the usual gear noise(whine). helicly cut. gears look chunkier. not by much. but noticable.(with a torch threw the drain plug) 1st is very tall. 2nd 3rd 4th nice and close. 5th seems normal. the synchro selecter looks differant from the stock one. chunkier looking but not as thick.

clearly im wasting my time