T04GTR

standard issue 32 gtr brake cooling ducts. they all have them. if not they have been ripped of on a driveway or the like. :lol: :lol: :lol:

heres a free tip that WORKS: you need to fill the oil up to about 0.5cm above the hump on the didstick prettymuch an extra 1.7-litres over full. i tested this im my r32gtr at wakfield with a mechanicl oil pressure guage and after a whole day of trackwork shes still good. not a smidgen of oil surge. cheeres :lol:

EASY MATE. the only wires needed to keep the atessa working is: tacho (pin 7) tps signal (pin 38) need to splice this wire 56 (purple one) into pin 38 as most aftermarket ecus dont have a tps output for other things. should take about 2 mins to do cheeres :lol: ps.. make sure you adjust the tps with the engine running to get .04 volts at the output (tps signal input) otherwise code 21 will pop up...

you need a biger wastgate flap. period

hmm. has it had a manuel conversion done? ive had it where the dust cover on the back of the box had a dent in it. rubbed the tailshaft each revolution. also check the tailshaft for ware. ie.centre bearing(midle bit) and the unis. also stones can get behind the brake disk backing plate. similar sound but i really need to know if it speeds up with the car/engine ctc

nitriding a rb crank should be about 100-200bucks. but youl have to get it straightend after... they bend from the heat

dude, all jap cranks are induction hardend from new, it is about 10 times as thick as nitriding well if its a steel crank anyway,thats what the heat afected areas on the journals are... (unless you have linished of about a millimetre) you can do it, but its a waste of cashjava script:emoticon(':lol:') smilie

rebuild,rebuild,rebuild. cant beat a nice "weatherd" block. besides n1 engines arnt all the bees knees anyway. apart from the water and oil pump. the pistons are still cast. sure the block is better, but are you aiming for 1000hp?? just do a rebuild. youl have a much stronger base. with all the fruit and some change to blow at the casino :lol:

n02. :lol:

on all the 300zxs iv complied in the past they all look the same. turbo and n/a same size same plug same colour sticker. much like rb20de/det...... rb25de/det....are the same aswell

could be an injector. seen it before pull the sparkplug out and smell if its all fuely :lol:

all the same. whether it be turbo twin turbo or na. (corect me if im wrong please. but they all look identicle)

pretty much any "engine shop" can do it. i personaly have used graham wilkens. "wilkens performance engines" in sevan hills, he is very good and has been doing it for ages. very talented at making ports work.. he was responcible for building some of the group a sereras and the hyundai wrc engines before they went overseas. most importantly he does what you ask!! very important when using jap forged pistons that only run 2 thou clearance. nothing worse than bieng told "no thats way to tight" and end up with a rattle motor. im sure there are other builders that are equaly as good or better. but at least this is done all under the one roof. hope that helps.

dont like syntrax but. bad experiances

if you gonna give it heaps id go a twin plate. like a ts2bd. 480hp one. comes with the flywheel etc. if no then a generic heavy duty organic single plat. with a 1 tone pressure plate will sufice

if its turbo, 4 litres aprox in the box. and about 1.5 in the diff

all push type turbo rb clutches are 240mm. yes it will fit. later pull ones are 250mm and wont. well the flywheel will fit. ectc

what should i use? or.... what do you use??

cool. thanks. buy whine i mean only slightly. not like a straight cut one. looks like il get oily again. i should of checked it more carefuly before i filled it with redline oil. what other peaple make helical syncromesh gear sets in japan? cheeres perhaps someone slapped it togeter without doing all the gear heights lol.

cant really go past a os-giken one. they are cheap to rebuild and buy. but a good "heavy duty" single plate would be suficant. :lol:

you need to use the ones with "MT" stamped on them, not the "05u" or "04u" ones. they are slightly shorter. they still do up but start to bottom out(the 05u,04u ones) hope that helps

hi all. i just installed a new/secondhand gearbox in my gtr and i think its a os-cross mission one. 1st goes to 80kph!! clutch is not happy jan :lol: 2nd,3rd,4th all nice and close. 5th is normal i think. posibly slightly shorter.?? the first 3 gears make a nice whine sound. ive looked at the countershaft and there is no markings on it. i didnt check the input shaft but. the only diferance i can see is on the countershaft the "machining" is nice and smooth and uniform, the 1st,2nd selector fork is abit narrower and diferand shaped. anyone able to give me an indication what ive got?? ps.. what revs in 5th is 100kph for the stock one compared to the os one?? cheeres dave :lol: :lol:

hi all. i thought id have more luck in this area. :lol: ive got a brandnew dr30 coupe boot lid for sale. check details in the for sale section cheeres dave

not generaly needed, but a goood idea

dr30 bootlid (coupe) is 4 inches longer than 4 door one) sydney BRAND NEW IN BOX dont own a dr30 anymore $400 ono (paid 560) (cash or direct deposit etc..) pick-up preferable was orderd ex-japan last one available thru nissan (took 3 months to find) dave, 0416181632 or pm me un-painted in the box