T04GTR

some lower what? damage

umm, il say wtf :angry, i wouldnt mind getting a closer look. to inspect why... im abit woried one of the rod bolts is snapped.. any way bell us later

sorry disco, just voicing my opinion and "limited personal experiance" i spose the new gen turbos are good. just i prefer a good kik when they come on :lol:

i did have that happen though. needed 40thou to cleanup!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

yess. it hasnt "gone" the turbine oil seal is leaking. and yes 170psi in all 6

heres another weird one. my front turbo is rooted. BUT: im filling up a catch can in 15mins of hard driving!~!!!! i was concerd id done a ringland. when i did a compresion test it came up 160-170psi in all 6 cylinders. (hot) it only started breathing since this turbo f**ked out.(heaps smokey) is it posible for the presure in the exaust housing to be forced back thru the turbine oil seal???? which is non existant. any takers?

wheel alignment needed. if its got aftermarket mags this will magnify the efect.

turbos. just give it a hard time. it fixed my ones :lol:

id stick with the stocker. its not a "tuned,equal lenght" only moderatly better. + it will crack. money better spent elsware my two cents

TFH_rnd2_Madness4.84.wmvdm_MadnessETRecord.wmvTFHrnd2_MadnessvsSSS.wmvmadness

ahh. thats makes sence. il check on monday with our v35 :lol:

... Maybe the CAS is faulty yeah???? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> YES IT IS we had the same problem at work. faulty cas

it all doesnt matter(sort-of) so long as the presure in the turbine housing doesnt get over %50 more than the inlet manifold. ie: 1 bar boost/1.5bar in the turbine ect. needed to make good power. generaly speaking the major diameter if the turbine/comp wheel of ang given turbo frame will not change. its just the miner dia of the comp/exducer of the turbine. ie trim nothing wrong with "vintage" turbo wheels. THEY WORK. gimmi a p trim and any to4 front. soooooo versitile and they dont "choke" like the current gt range well, only some like the chokemaster gt35/66. on a 13b lost 46kw at the wheels due to turbine choke. (a trusted turbo workshop that is "precise") my main point is the "early" design turbos are quite versatile in there design. meaning you can "hi-flow" them easily and not worrie about the turbine choking. one thing ive noticed is that with the "gt" range your pretty well stuck with what you get in the box. albeit a nicly matched turbo. but limiting for the engine etc. in that there are very limited choice of turbine housins/configurations. any way my 2 cents

%99 sure they are the same. 33/34/z33 same. 324mm by 32 thick. just 33 ones are black. 34/z33 use diferant size pistons(diferential size) to reduce taperd pad ware. rears are the same.

it doesnt really mater what u pay. more expencive is NOT always better. it all comes down to your given set-up. and a tyre that can take heat.

federal ss595. dont knock them till youve tried them. the best old road tyre ive used. abit doghy till there warm. then they come into there own. very predictable and they give good feedback. they suite the gtr very well. they need to be treated agressivly to get the most out of them. when they feel like they are loosing grip they keep on gripping harder. quite a wierd sensation. -2.5deg camber front/-1 deg rear camber/9deg caster/2mm toe out on front/5mm toe in on rear/ slightly lower at the front ,whiteline swaybars. rear hard front soft. 500lb front springs, 400lb rear springs 6 months worth of trial an error getting this set up that works and doesnt understeer. for my 32gtr :lol: they were better than s02,re01,fk451,gIII potenza, re03 potenza, sp sport9000 the main diferance was the leval of heat they could take. they did not get all "ski-jumped". but they run best at 34-36psi hot this is on a r32 gtr. 255-40-17. nismo lm-gt2 17by 9inch. FOR $185 EACH NOTHING COMES CLOSE. to be quicker round corners than those crazy honda guys that hit the old pac everynight. federals are doing ok.

the strut tops are diferant. but you can rotate them to suit. the shock body is longer in the 33. but if there height adjustable that can be fixed. the valving shouldnt mater because youl probably change the springs anyway. hopfully they use a standard 65mm id or 60mmid spring( not the ghey taperd tein type)

if the codes indicate that its the tps/tps circuit, get a multimeter and check that there is 0.4volts at idle. if not adjust it to get 0.4volts. i think its the middle pin its easy the 3 pins willbe be ground/5 volts/ and signal. if not then you may need to check the wiring for damage. and/or check there is no break in the wires between the sensor and the attessa ecu. hope that helps :lol:

count me in!!!

yes. it really depends on whos tuning it and how much timing they put in it. if evrythings up to spec(fuel system etc) 20-25pound should be fine. you can run more but it will ware out just like any engine

itl be fine, just less laggy, your injector duty cycle will go up about %5

ahh. im thinking of gtst, woops

give it heaps till it gets real bad. it really depends on how much "blowby" its got. to help it remove and plug the pcv valve. (breather pipe on to of the inlet manifold) using a 1/4 bsp plug(common as ie, airline fitting thread for rattle gun etc) also plug the breather going into the rear turbo inlet pipe. WHERE THE PIPES GO INTO PLUG,DONT BLOCK THE HOSES. NOW TAKE THESE TWO PIPES AND PUT THEM INTO A CATCH CAN ARANGMENT venting the can to atmosphere. this did wonders for my 190000KM old GTR. no mor oil shit getting into the motor :lol: