T04GTR

gts4 is 4.336:1 :lol:

33/34 gtr ones work really well. the fronts still get red hot but. the rears work suprisingly well. im running 34/33 rears and f40 343mm floating brakes on the front. rears only dull red fronts bright orange!!! i had 33 gtr ones on the front but they dont cop the heat and take ages too cool. stock 32gtr rears are way too small and get way to hot and crack inhalf!!! it happend. gotta love the old road. :lol: :lol: so in reality it depends how hard ur gonna push ur car. bigger is better. a355mm front with big reds will be the best i recon. can fit 17s over them too.

stock 32 gtr wheels fit over 33/34 gtr brakes. verry good. take alot of abuse before the get red hot. have to linnish the high points on the caliper to fit them. easy to do with a file or belt sander :lol:

it is aligned properly isnt it

umm. no ofence. 35psi boost and race fuel + a really good box. and somone who knows how to drive. how longs a piece of string

im sorry, do disrespect for twins, but single is the shit. so long as the manifold is corect. none of this 40mm odd massive thick runners. sorry hks,trust im not reving it to 12grand!! in terms of exaust housings. .84 splitpulse is the most versitile.(garrett) for a comparison my old motor (26 with stuff) made 326rwkw on 16 psi. and it was a. tw41. or t04e with o trim turbine 60trim 14blade compwheel .84 split rear .7 front cover. 1.25"id runners about 18inces long give or take. full boost at 3600 in second. lowmounts would struggle get that without the bottle. besides they are laggy but not. (builds boost from low rpm but not full boost till quite late) anyway nick my advice would be to go for a drive in one equiped with what u are thinking of doing. just so you can see. and perhaps come to a compromise. cheeres. :lol: :lol: :lol:

youl always get reversion with an aftermarket valve. unless it a twinchamber or seqential one the dodgy plunger gfb/tsmart are very tempremental on light boost trailing throttle

yep, sounds like it has to much toe out on the front. and posibly rear. camber will afect it but not as much as toe. if its got big wheels with the wrong ofset it can cause the same problem,along with low profile tyres. un evan caster can have the same afect(more than a degree diferance will do it) if the caster bushes are worn it can make it toe in excesivly on braking wich will make it jump all over the lane!! get a wheel alignment: front have slight toe in. (+1mm or so total)(if understeering toe out 1mm ish) rear toe in abit more (+4 or 5mm total) better stability caster should be abit more on the left.(.25 of a degree or so) camber should be evan. ie front -1.5 rear -1 or so hope that helps

are you using the 33 or 32 oxysensor

ok. its a 040 intank!! :lol: doesnt matter i fixed it. i put a peirburg scroll pump from a merc in. (had them from my old car) now its not airating the fuel and im much hapier

YES it will have the weird 02 sensors

standard one is rooted,hence the replacment

no sock. just has the flat bottom with the mesh

i couldent agree more. :lol:

hmm. that still doesnt explain why its cavitating

umm. you could swap to r33 ones as they are normal. but you would have to change to a r33 ecu. to hard basket what year is it?

WONT WORK wrong type of oxy sensor. nothing works with titania ones

umm. no full tank evrything good. pump just isnt hapy, do they have to be VERTICLE in the tank?. im a mechanic and not retarded(some may argue) cheeres ps. worth noting i removed the inline damper in the tank. this helped but still shit. also the return that directs it back to the base of the pump. (so it doesnt suck warm airated fuel.)

i recently instaled a bosch 044 in-tank fuel pupm and after about 5mins of driving it starts cavitating and not pupmping. its starts making a bouncing groaning noise, when you squeeze the hose it pulsates has this happend to anyone? in a r32gtr

once again im retarded. thanx mate. i do believe it is the rear. that makes sence

stick a 5litre bottle in. slighty over full. but no oil surge id be checking the breather hoses for blockages

you could high flow it. just change the comp wheel for the 38gk one as the turbine is the same (t88h) cheaper to sell the t88h34d and buy a t88h38gk :PBJ:

not to spoil the mood or anything. but there WILL be a problem complying that. just a gues youl need these parts. non braded brake lines posibly brake calipers/discs engine wheels seats and pretty much anything else non standard. just make sure you know were the raws auditers are so they can submit the paperwork when their on the otherside of the country. sick car but MASSIVE job. oh. the engine should be fine. :lol:

sorry dude my heads not working well enough to decifer your question

yah. i work in a import shop and am fitting the complete whiteline kit to the stagea. iv had the arm in the press and it wont budj without bending the arm. i need somone who may of seen it done before. basicly i want the easiest way of doing them bexcause time is money