T04GTR

i agree with beer baron. the stock one will work much better so by the time it opens there will be no air left to bleed off. well not much anyway

Heres the codes. 20-normal 21-outside air temp sensor 22-inside air temp sensor 23-water temp sensor(eccs one,2pin one on top hose outlet) 24-intake/suction air temp sensor(the one that plays up)# 25-sunload sensor(will display if you test out of sun) 26-pbr(air mix door/hot cold blending flap) 27-refigant temp sensor(other evaporator temp sensor)# #two sensor plugs behind glove box system check seqance? spelling? 1-display check 2-sensor check 3-mode door position check 4-actuator opp check 5-sensor recognition temp display check(5-outside,inside,intake,refrigant.) 6-temp adjust for display(knob customer who thinks the temp is diferant from what is displayed),its always out!! hope that helps ps.temp sensor resistance:intake and refrigant the same(#) @20deg 2.65kohms @10deg 3.99kohms @0 deg 6.19kohms so to trick them put a 5kohm resistor across the plug for the sensor so it thinks its about 5deg.

we have a nismo 2way centre at work. (only the centre not the whole diff) (came in the boot of a 34 we got in) im sure a reosonabe offer my boss will part with it. if not use penrite "limslip 85-140" to keep that helical diff in check.,it works in fd rx7s.

so i take it you dont need my 26rods with tomei bolts? o well good stuf anyway.

is it just at idle its to rich? does it have a hand controler thingy. or only laptop. check the coolant temp when dead cold. if anything it needs to be retuned. is it running a closed loop set-up(o2 sensor) if you swapped the turbo and o2 sensor for a 33 one they are diferant so the readings will be wayout. you should get it retuned anyway with a new cooler and turbo.

are you sure it has spark and fuel. check if the injectors have power. standard or aftermarket ecu?

first thing. is it engineered? the reason pods are ilegal is. they dont offer the same flame traping properties as a sealed air box. and noise emissions i think. (yes its not like a backfire is going to go all the way down 2 or so metres of plumbing and a turbo!) to make it legal it has to be "out of site"that is what my engineere said for him to engineer it. i think you may of got bent over by an ignorent cop.(there are plenty) it usaly helps if you put your mechanics licence next to your licence in your wallet so they see it. no more gay defects after i did that!! by the sounds of it you need to be armed with a enginereres cirt folder.

1.11 is a pretty good time. especily on road tyres. the best i could do in a stock 32gtr was 1.14.

2 years ago there was a silvia with a vg30tt in it on display in the show and shine at jambo. mayby jump on a Qld silvia site for more info?

thanks. but i know il never run that exact setting. it primarily a streetcar at the moment. so 2deg on the front is ok for me. il set it up around that. front bar on soft rear on hard. it seems alot more stable/predictable now. also as you sugested dampers would hav a influence on springs to. as mine are probably quite simple in design. im only guessing but with a good damper that has go 5 or so adjusters ie:one for big bumps/little ones/fast ones/etc you could get away with a lighter spring? speaking of pyrometers. have you read the latest "race car enginering mag" its got a mad article on a new pyrometre. it is basicly like a infared camera. but live. it shows a "preditor" style image of the whole tyre with user programable contrast for the variation of temp. very cool. it was origonaly designed to test tyre warmers for their efectivness i think. ps. cheers for the subframe diagram. iv got mine by the look of it set up for squat. il be changing that i think

hmmmmm.

im pretty sure jatcos dont have rear pumps in the autos. most euro tranniies havbe them. so they can be tow started. (no oil pressure no clutch/band engagment no spinning converter ...)

what car is it?

no they are s13 brakes

get a handset and enrichen the whole fuel map.(overal fuel trim)

the turbine wheel and compressor (2835 is of much earlier design)

shit. thats who stole my flux capaciter.

thats for the factory boost guage. no biggie

cool. nice big axles but.

all r200. swap the rear plate on the diff. does it have the rubber bushes on the nose of the diff(the 2 bolts that mount the front of the diff. if so you may need the subframe as sk sugested. does it have abs? turbo half shafts are completly diferant. 1. 5 bolt flanges. 2. the splines on the flanges that go into the diff are diferant. but they should go into your stubaxels.(big nut behind the wheel) hope that helps.

not realy because they are relieved of any major single spinner load due to the 4wd. i thought they had the "a lsd" im asuming your talking about the non v-spec ones.

if you have a look at the pics. the normal one only has 2 screw dimples in the front of it altho is abit un clear in that picture.(where the crank sproket goes) also on the back the normal one doesnt have the extra screw that is inward abit from the rest.(normal one has a circle of screws?)

no. unfortunatly they dont. but because of the better materials used they are much mor resistant to harmonics.

clealy they need to up date there website!! il take some pics and show you.

yes i agree. swapp the hoses on the solinoid