T04GTR

unfortently only race type pads are available. i looked thru the whole bendix book. and the pasanger ferrodo book and the only ones that are the same are e39 bmw with 4 piston calipers. fbd1299 for the front that is.

i believe a sparky would be able to source a new relay. it is a seperate part.

i dont know of any racing skylines or the like that use a torson/helical/quafe(all same principle) the shuder is anoying but if you want a quiet diff you need to reduce the power so you can reliably use the helical method.

thanks for the input. now i know the tern anti...... thanks sk. no im not concidering running that camber on the road.(that is slicks spec etc,race car) settings fromals some other people have set up and maintained racing 32s.(it sdemms abit dangerouse to drom some names) aparently some cars use a 27mm adjustable front one. and a 24mmrear or a 22mm rear if its raining. 5.75neg on the front. 8deg caster 550f 4000r springs 200 and 220mmlong respectivly 2.5deg neg on rear 30%anti squat 1.5deg toe out on the front 1deg toe in on rear(i dont kknow the converion from degrees to mm in toe.) (these are for race rubber) please dont have a fight with HRD-HR30 about what is a good................he has got some very valid points. i recon with both of you going at it know one else needs coment. its very educational.(not having a go so dont be ofended) this is just a way for me to get a GENERAL idea on how to set up the suspension based on these white line swaybars. it seems getting these technical settings is like getting blood from stone. its like its a big secret. im not going to run off and tell evry one whos racing. lets not bring thbe race car politics into the threads. at the moment if got 550front 400rear. yes its stiff. but springs are abit pricy. im going to borrow some from my mate mick carueso. i think running standard rate springs is abit of a gay idea. i mean im no suspension expert but an upgrade has to be a good thing. just for referance the mines 32gtr uses 10kfront 8krear for their street time bla bla bla cars (with very expencive biltien coil overs with remote gas canisters etc.) what hapens when you go around a corner and a inside rear comes of the ground? this has been fixed with my new springs. and rear bar adjustment. any way cheers for the input. i understad how it works now.

check the vac hose back into the ecu(no map reading) also try gigeling the tps plug

"n1 pump is nothing but a factory rb26 pump with a stiffer relief spring to raise pressure."save your money, get a stocker and if you like a stiffer spring for the relief valve." i do believe you are completly WRONG. the n1 pump i completly diferant. have you seen them put side by side? diferant gear shape.(directional shape teeth not the symetricle type of the normal one) an extra screw holding the cove on it. 1 tooth less than the normal one. yes a diferant relief spring. billit type materal not cast sinterd physicly they are slightly smaller but the revised design is more eficant. the SAME price from nissan(list price anyway) be aware of places charging more for them.(not nissan spare parts) in stock at hornsby nissan. i think i paid 420. 24ur.bmp

thanks sk i thought they were abit high. ive spoken to a couple of people and im considering using 450lb front 350rear ive been advised that 550front 400rear is a pretty good rate for the track. along with 5degrees neg on the front. (im asumig because of the extra grip from race tyres?) i think if i can get the spring rate close to acceptable the rest is just a mater of how fast i want my tyres to ware out!! could you please explain what "antisquat" in the rear is ie:"im running 30%anti squat in the rear" why do all of the aftermarket coilovers come with such heavy springs in them? mine origonaly had 13kg front 8kgrear. the term "firm"is an understatment! any way thanks. ps. im more at home to late brake fast turn-in powerout. im trying to get more smooth in my cornering. i tend to turn in abit to agressivly. you get that from man-handling a 440rwhp dr30 up the old pac pps. the field ets controler is quit handy in this respect. il let you know how i go. cheers

factory helical difs are fantastic with standard power. put some torque through them and bang. the lsd efct is done through the gears trying to push themselvs apart in the centre against the centret casing(in short). the gears simply arnt strong enough for the extra power. if they open wheel(which they do)it doent take long for them to break a good mechanical clutch pack lsd is the go. ps the halfshafts are all diferant on the inside of the diff. also r34gtt manuel cars come with a helical centre. gtr does not. cheerrs.

due to the complete lack of input to my last post on handling. im aware of the many variables involved with seting up suspension on a gtr. im guesing that -2deg camber on the front is aceptable. thats not my major hurdle: basicly my main question is: i have the adjustable white line swaybars.(front and rear) what spring rates are these suitable for? ie: are they designed to be used with the standard rate springs? i understand that stifening the bar gives les grip at that end.(bar efectivly reduces the amount of force bieng pushed down on the iside tyre,hence reducing its grip.) let me rewind for a minute, my 32gtr is understeering once settled into the corner. its as if the back is simply pushing it across the lane. evan going uphill! the rear is quite nervouse. it sortof bucks around abit. like its got traction and as the front torque cuts in it gets grip and pushes the front. it does this the whole time when pushed. or can i not drive for shit the front end is all adjustable. i need to know if my springs are corect. front:10kg/mm rear:7kg/mm i know that changing them will alter how the shocks operate(they are adgustabe) has anyone actualy set up a gtr for the street/(street tyred)for occasional track use with these bars? or am i better of using the stock bars with heavier springs? somone please tell me what is a good spring rate to use with these swaybars ANY HELP IS GREATLY APRICIATED ps.geting a wheel alignment after each guestimated camber adjustment is becoming xpencive!! i have destroyed a set of tyres trying to get this close to rite

15-20 psi once at operating temp at idle 25-35 psi between 2-4 grand 35-45 psi between 4-6 grand 50-60 psi over 6 grand <{POST_SNAPBACK}> is that with sewing machine oil? or with really really big bearing clerances?

nothing wrong with a Dribbletech. they all have pretty good resolution with the 3dtuning software. and they can be configured to read all of the factory sensors. im not sur about closed loop. at the end of the day it comes down to how well its tuned. fullstop. microtech web site

replace the coolant temp sensor

thats pretty normal oil presure. my 170000km old rb26 has 7 bar at idle stone cold with penrite 5w60 at idle 2.5bar when hot. when hot it maxes out at 7-7.5bar

my two cents. they are all shit. thin wall 304 brittle shit. (in my opinion) i have witnessed many combos. but they are "racing" items wich are ment to be replaced each season. no intension to ofend anyone. i had my ebay/xforce one ceramic coated in and out to keep the heat out of it. all those gcg/ebay ect have runners way to big. the jap ones are the same. for some reason they all use very big runners for max hp. they seem to forget that most of us only want 5-600hp. on a 26 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" internal daiametre runners is perfect. on a 20-25 1 1/4" would be perfect. you have to rembember that the manifold isnt the restriction but the exhaust housing. i only bought one because i couldnt be botherd to make another custom one. i still have the scars on my hands. but for 300 bucks you cant go wrong. ps. whats with the chineese t4 pattern that is half way between t3 and t4? the ports line up but the bolt spacing is WAY off.

nice little to4. according to hks its a 500ps turbo. "o" trim turbine with either a .7, .84, or 1.0 a/r 57 trim comp. in a .6 a/r cover. i had the same combo on my rb26. except with a 60 trim comp and .84 split exhaust housing. it made full boost at 3500-4000 and made 326 rwkw. on 16psi 500cc injectors maxed out on a rb20 it would be pretty laggy in 1st and 2nd but would be great once loaded up go the t04 :lol:

yes after many headsrcatching sessions. hears what it was all about. tps adjustment to get .4volts hooking up the attessa throttle wire to the microtech throttle signal. unplugging the f**king air bleed conector apart from that happy days. now for some power making

the alignment is 0 on the front +5mill on the rear (total) 3 deg camber on the front 1.75 on the rear about 7 deg +caster turn in is good but as soon as the car settles in to the corner it starts understeering quite badly. it feels as if the back of the car is lifting up and overloading the front tyres. this is with the front and rear swaybars on there softest setting. and the shocks on their 1/4 hard setting. are these spring rates suitable for these swaybars?

generaly if there is a problem with the abs unit the term "fix" means replace. sadly there is no easily servicable parts inside.

code 25 is the sun load sensor(doesnt affect it) it will show this if your under cover. -24. thats exacly what mine does. firstly go to step 3 (41-47etc) push the amb button and get 42 thats full cold max. if that gets cold this should work: you need to get a 2k resister(makes it think its 15-20degrees) hoked up to that sensor. remove the glove box. theirs some plugs with 2 wires in them on the ac unit up the top. that one is the one with the 2 wires close together. not the wide one.(last temp) un plug it and see if you got the right one(while looking at the temp displayed) put the resister in the plug.(female one) it should work now.

my sugestion is to buy a non turbo one and weld it up(too hard to weld a viscous) this way after you get sick ok the rear driveshaft clunking you can put the stocker back in. if its a drift or drag only car im sure they are available.(they raced with them )probably from the usa.

cool. that has shed some light on my current post. please give me a list? of cource i noticed this post after i had started mine

hi all.im trying to get my gtr to handle well. hers the suspension list. nismo lmgt2 17*9 255-45-17 tyre midori adjustable front upper arms tein adjustable caster rods k-sport coilovers (shut up they ride really well(and dont leak or break ur back) 10kg/mm (552lb) front springs 7kg/mm (365lb) rear white line front and rear adjustable swaybars rear cradle locking pinaples floor brace/ front and rear tower bars removed hicas. field ets controler.(will post wiring diagram when i have the time) im after a set up suited to fast ROAD type settings. eg. front + rear toe, front camber. the rest is cool. im not after full race settings (not 6deg neg on the front etc) any guidence would be much apreciated.

ive seen this before. check or tighten the wastgate actuator. with it of the wastgate flap you should have to pull it about 4mm or so to slide it over the flap leaver(what the rod pushes on) also to stop that anoying boost dropping at hi revs hook the main feed directly to the plenum. not the outlet of the turbo.

i get pulled up alot. just recently i forgot to renew my licence and got pulled up for it. he was kind enough to give me a lift to work (it was on his way) while i was in the hwy car he had ALL my detailes up on the screen. he showed me that all they have to do is enter the plate number into the system and if its regesterd in your name the whole lot comes up. ie:your address car vin and engine no. colour licence no. and status and driving histry so if youve been abit nauty like me.(4 a4 pages) youl get picked on.

they bolt on. front calipers need to be relieved about 1mm where the stock 16s run. ie. wheels dont fit due to the daiameter of the new brakes. it takes about 5mins to lightly remove the high spots on the calipers.