T04GTR

hmm thats got some good gear. but why the shit hks cams. i would of thout ited have some nice tomei ones. need to know what oil pump and what harmonic balancer it had. ie to see what revs itl do.

engine flushes are shit. only good if the motor has low kays. all the crap that it cleans off ends up bieng jammed i the crankshaft and blocking it. thats why peaple "grub screw the crank" so yoy can remove them and clean the sludge out. just use a good quality semi or full synthetic. my 32 gtr has done 160000kms and i use penrite syn 5 (5w-60) and it works a treat.

hmm. mine did exacly that when i had the wrong computer in it.(33gtr in 89 32gtr) due to the titania o2 sensors in the early gtrs. but it could be an airflow meter problem. if its only just started. see if you can gety a fault code of the ecu. turn the dial all the way clockways and read the little led fashes.

perhaps one turbo is tired. or about to explode. they are standard ones are they. as a referance mines stock and reaches full boost (13 pounds ) at around 3500 loaded up. 6600 is way to late. id check te cat for blockages etc. apart from the obvious air leak checks thats about all i can sugest . sory

n1 pump is the go. probably getting all that extra oil out the breathers due to it pumping more oil up the top. the main benifit of a n1 pump is there ability to withstand more crank harmonics and not break.

wherre are they made

this used to always happen to me on the drive down to wakfield. the cooler was nice and cooled.

get them from ebay or www.hidlights.com. 100 a pair + diferant kelvins available.

100 bucks says it the unleaded fuel filler restricter. what your fuel cap screws into. pull it out and re glue it in. devcon melal stuff.

the afm is the problem here. its not like a bosch afm[vl commo etc] it boesnt have a burn off function like the vl one. its a thick film type. [bosch LH type] once any crap gets on them it stays there and buggers up the signal causing your exact problem. to be sure remove it and clean it gently with brake clean or contact cleaner. but not carby cleaner[leaves a oily residue] hope that helps.

cool. ok. im looking at the attesa schematic and the wheel speed sensors hook DIRECTLY to the atessa ecu. i know everyones trying to help but the wheelspeed sensors are NOT the issue. what we are trying to do is make the attessa ecu think its still plugged in to the abs/actuator assembly.(passanger side of engine bay with all the brake lines etc) and no we dont have the abs/actuator unit. { the abs ecu is the attessa ecu(r32)} for those with a manual refer to page ch-66

the 34 gtt box is a nice piece of gear.(the latest syncro type) apart from having a PULL clutch its the same. WHOOPS. i missed the na bit. no the na ones are the same as 32 33 sr20 ect. fs5w71c box. 33 gtst is a fs5r30a. all non turbo 71c boxes only use single synchros as far as im aware.

so basicly. you have to indipendantly re run each wheel speed sensor wire back to the ets ecu. as far as im aware its all hooked up. just the pump/actuator has been removed. and fault code 8. (abs motor relay/circut etc) not a wheel speed sensor fault. i thought the atessa ecu controles the abs? i know this is a tricky one but somones had to of done this before. i simulated this at work on my own car by unpluging the abs. i got code 8 and 9.(abs motor relay and abs actuator relay) any feedback on the same senario would be apriciated. ps. this is nxtime and myselfs little chalange due to an aftermarket ets controler having been nikked from his car while on the docks.

was a personal joke between charlie and myself!

this is for those of us who have eratic a/c operation (somtimes cold but not all the time) your ac has a self diagnosis feature you can use. leave car undercover for a while.(60+degree interias dont help this test) turn ignition on and start the engine, within 10 seconds hold the off button down till 1.the whole display lights up.(diag mode)to test the display. 2push the heat button now .if the ac has a major fault the code number will fash. if its ok 20 will be displayed. 3. push the heat button and 41will be displayed. this is the vent and fan test. while in this section u can run thru 41 to 47 by pushing the ambient button. the vent and fan speeds should go thru there differant stages. + ac comp. 4.THE IMPORTANT STEP push the heat button. this test runs thru the 4 temp sensors that are used to regulate the compressor outlet(coldness) the 4 sensor temps are displayed in this order. by pushing amb. outside inside air intake > (before evaporator temp) refrigant temp.>( evaporator temp) the outside and inside should be about the same.(leaving car in sun depletes this test) the intake and refrigant temp should be the samish. any masive variation between the two will cause the ac to stop working properly. for example: mine was showing 28.5, 31.5,-23.5,10. (this is withe the ac running in the previus test(41-41etc) clealy the car is not sucking in -23.5 degree air from the base of the winscreen! now i know why the ac turns on and cuts out after a miniute or so.. it thinks its already cold so why run! to fix this its a matter of replacing the sensor of concern with an apropriate thermister of the same value. have a play with it and youl soon begin to understand how the climate control works. to make the most of it the car has to be at an evan temp on a coolish day out of the sun. with the car running or if the ac cuts out while your driving along, quickly pull over and turn off the car and re start it. run through the diagnostic steps till step 4. the temp sensor test. check them and if ones out of the ordonary thats the fault.(they might read ok at room temp,but can be overly sensitive(as with mine) depending on interest on this il go into the 10 or so common fault codes you can get in step 2,and the rest of how to fix them. ps. to revert back to normal ac just push the auto button.

arrre. good old t66. cant go wrong with a "p"trim rear.

a synchro box is a syncro box. fullstop as far as im aware all the aftermarket gearsets that use synchros still use the STANDARD nissan ones. so they are all limmited in the speed of shifting unfortonatly.

has it still got the muffler atatched to it? thats needed to make the flux capaciter work. check if the radio works

i wonder if i should be selling this tool anyone in for a group buy? im out of window bricks

nxtime and my self stayed up till about 2am helping dale fron castle hill exaust tune the car for the day. dale installed the computer on thursday nite. i thought he did a top efort i no time at all. talk about last minuite prep. so realisticly the car went from completly immovable to tuned in 1 day pitty about the attessa problems weve got.

i love every time i take time of work this hapens but i had fun helping with the barbie

sounds like a good excuse to leave work early.

there is nothing wrong withe lowmounts. but this is the reason i personaly prefer a single. to get the most out of them your going to have to run the 1.6or so bar to get that power. just as a referance(no intension on opening a can of worms) i ran a t04e on my 26 the specs are as follows. pon cam 260,s 87 mm trust pistons. 550cc s5 rx7 injectors autronic smc msd dis4 with s4 rx7 twin post coils.(3inch spark with no leads on them!!) cleaned up ports on the head 1.5inch daiameter runner manifold. 12inch long or so big cooler. turbo: 60trim 7blade comp (59.5mm)ind 76major .7ar front cover "o" trim rear. .86 twin scroll turbine housing. plain bearing. fullboost at 3500. 325.9kw atw on 16 psi with 95% duty on the injectors.(98 fuel) a sweet combo till the thrust bearing f**ked out. backed up on two seperate dynos.(sas and one in gosford) lowmounts are good but you need to run heaps of boost.

if you are running a non standard ecu give it the chop. otherwise persivere

not to scare you but the standard guage at exacly half way is about 100 degrees. when i got mine ih had some funny jap writing on a piece of paper taped to the center console. i got it of the towtruck from the docks and the battery was flat so i jumped it and let it idle to charge it up and only knew there was a problem when there was steam pissing evry ware. just give it a good bleed. fill it up and undo the bleeder till it dribbles out you may have to poke a pin in the bleeder hole to move the scale.