T04GTR

32 02 senors are a "titanium" type. they work completly diferantly.much like a proper a/f sensor but not as advanced. they vary a voltage going through them acording to the a/f ratio. rather than put out a ocilating voltage. i think. 33 ones are the normal type whatever that is. besides i used a 33 computer on mine 89gtr(a/c testing etc) and full throttle is fine but light throttle was so bad i thought i had a dud afm!! basicly any throtthe opening where closed loop control is used {everthing except full throttle} it will buck and carry on and give him the shits. wont notice it till they are up to temp. i first ran in to this when i thought id use a 33 computer to get the better programing.(more torque) hope that clears t up.

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it will all go in. hel need to use the 32 clutch and flywheel. also the 32 02 sensors. diferant. it will have drivability problems.

excelent work. it seems that your boost control problems are long gone il have to pull my finger out and get my motor going!!!

anything with a 3/4 thread. z9,z89,z115,z145a,z418,z386 to name a few etc.

yeah thats ok but youl not use all the tyre the edges will ware out heaps fast. but if thats of no concern i spose its not a problem.

the noise is sticky pistons in the calipers(usally only one is doing it) peel the dust boot back on the noisy one and carfully push the piston out but not all the way! get some brake caliper lube(clear liquid used during an overhaul.) cote it nicly and push it back in and your done. every third 32 i comply has this noise!

Skyline model = 32 gtr Wheel diameter = 17 nismo lmgt2 Wheel width =9 Wheel offset =+23 Tyre size =255-40-17 Modifications to fit =nill

my two cents. i fited 33 brembos with the factory 324 rotors behind 32gtr wheels. i hat to linish the top of the caliper(the middle bit to make it flater)

thats pushing it. id say no due to the stretched on tyre buldge youd get. 265s would be the bigest id go.

no dramas. hopfully it has the nylon bit on it. 33gtst gear lever has a small ball on the lever(at the bottom) gtr has a large metal ball so you cant fit the gtr nylon bit to the 33 lever. (the ball im talking about is what the nylon bit pushes on to)

umm. yes it will. im using one in mine. the one you need is te one with the large base (big nylon bit) there are two sizes. ones about 9mm. the other one is 14mm or so. the 14ish one is the one you need. hope that helps.

im not a huge fan of splitfire coils as i noticed no diferance with them. a twin power would be the easiest option. sort of half a cdi but withought all the mucking around withe signal conerters for a msd and leads with twinpost coils. etc

cool. poncams have 9.15 mm lift. and iether 260 or 252.degrees procams have longer duration and more lift. if your head has been machined around the buckets for hi-lift cams its a procam. if it hasnt its a poncam. they all look like factory cams.(they use factory cast blanks and machine them to there profile.) except for a part number stamped in the back of them. as far as im aware tomei dont do a 264. they do 252.260.270.280.290 there procam range has 3 levals of lift in the 260.( 9.15. poncam),10.25,10.80) the 10.25 and 10.8mm ones use a 30mm base circle on the cam. get out the virniers and mesure the lobe size.

my first blow up. dr30rsturbo. fj20et. i had the motor freshend up and it started to get more chain rattely than normal. till the point where it could almost be heard while driving along. took of from a set of lights and then bang,nothing. i pulled over and removed the rocker cover yes it apears the lower chain had snaped. got it home and striped it down to find the lower chain tensoner had worn down to the metal backing on the plunjer i rang the engine shop an he informed me he had used a non gen tensoner. it was a stiff rubber rather than the hard nylon factory one!! he then said sorry mate ,"because its a race motor we cant help you!" thanks mat it had only done 15k. i got the shits and put a 26 in it. (refer to story one)

ok now for some 4cyl. sr20de. full exaust and motec m4 not very exciting but what some owners do is quite funny. no 2 bigend spun. i went to remove the engine and had to drain the oil. this is no joke but i got 17.8 litres out of it.(filled up a whole neverfail spring water bottle!!!) im suprised it still ran. and didnt blow much smoke at all

third one almost blu up. r34gtr v-spec with 34000k came in with a large oil leak. front crank seal pissing out. removed all the parts and noticed the seal had been ripped up i pryed out the seal an there was a nice piece of oil pump ripping it up. i informed the customer ant got the authority to remove and inspect the engine. the oil pump was fractured through the middle. and a little piece of the front had broken of and made short work of the seal. customer wanted a new head gasket/ metal inlet,exaust gaskets/ 2530turbos/hks dumps/ tomiesump baffel +restricter.+n1 oil pump. and powerfc. (i wish my bank acount could be like that) i removed the head and noticed alot of pitting on no.3 piston. ad o look a valve guides half missing!! so after a lot of cash and time its all good. but goes to show that age has nothing to do with the durability of these motors. if this can hapen to a genuine 30k engine then anythings posible.

second one was a customers car. 94 32gtr stock witha a exaust. running 13psi spun no 4 bigend. he thought it was ok to do 10k between oil changes and use gtx2 oil crank was rooted as well as conrod. all other bigends were down to copper backing. yes no whitemetal left at all. to top it of he kept on driving it for a week with the spun bearing. when i removed the engine the front diff had no oil in it. he informed me it recently had a clutch and major service at his local gararge. also worth noting it had traveled 198000kms!!!

rb26. r33 gtr type 60k stock ecu, .7bar boost. in dr30 rs-turbo. rear turbo turbine faliue. hears the weird part. turbine fragments went back UP the manifold and destroyed the motor. <_< found this out from loud knocking niose imediatly after the turbo failed. also the head had ceramic fragments imbedded thru all six cylinders. it kept on breaking the head shops tool bit on the head mill... the block needed 40thou to remove the scratches from the bores. and also no detination marks on the pistons(except for were the ceramics had been squashed.) no broken rings or ringlands engine builder said it lookes somone had fed it a couple of handfuls of sand at full noise. conditions of blow up was on limiter frying down the road in second.(quite embarising bieng at holden as a mechanic at the time and having just come back from holidays to do the conversion. )

dont stress. its a pain. youhave to do it in 3 stages. 1.open the bleader on the master cylinder and bleed that 2.open the bleeder niple in the big loop thing under the car.(square block that the clutch hose goes on to.) and bleed it. 3.bleed the slave cylinder. you should have a good pedal. but dont let the clutch pedel fly up on the up stroke.

shit thats no good. you can still make it work but. it still has a spline on the cam. just try and line up the broken bits. it might take a while but its better than replacing the camshaft...

thats all good. ive got next weekend of for the drift nats aurun? park. forgot how to spell that. should all cruise out there?

well it hapend again. i have to work today my mate with a white ceffie with white enkies will probably turn up make sure you guys gets som good pics have fun. i be sitting on my arse serving flamin mongrelstomers.

i work at autobarn chatswood on weekends so il get some vac line too ()does the hose clamps have just 8mm head OR flat head screw aswell

sure im not doing much. il call u when i finish work at 5 ish do you want to keep your old one aswell?