T04GTR

get the lsd for the 33 diff. as long as you have the 5 bolt diff flanges. ps i take it you have the crownwheel and pinion from a 33 diff?

got any oil in the front diff lol?

i think they do. because the majority of the dyno charts ive seen make as much power at 5k as they do at redline. seeming like the head cant flow hte extra air for high rpm. instead of the nice diagonal line with ever increasing power with revs. hell we have a very tough rb30 at work with kelford 280/10.5's and -10s and it is only making 330rwkw on 20 pounds.... seems abit low to me. cam timing would apear to have an efect.

perhaps it has a sticky pressure relief valve.

nismo oil air seperator with your catch can. nothing else will work.

keep the autronic. i did.. arias/eagle piston and rod kit. nitto oil pump and a performance metalcraft sump. and a 33 crank. or crank collar. and assembled on the loose side of factory bearing clearance specs.

nothing wrong with arias pistons. ive used them alot with no problems. jap stuff is the best. back in the day i paid 2500 for a set of trust pistons.... nice <2 thou clearance..

UAS WILL DO IT FOR 1100 fitted and tuned. pretty sure you get a 10% discount if you are a sau member..

for a general rule of thumb. on a n/a motor. more lift = more power. the duration simply moves the power band around. with turbo. you want more lift and more duration if you are using smallish turbos. the boost will fill in the hole left by the larger duration.. with a larger turbo you would tend to do the same thing.. but this does make the power delivery more abrupt. in my experiance a "safe" choice is no more than 270 degree with as much lift as possible. if you are going to race it. a larger cam is better. unless you putt around at 3000rpm. in which case you should sell it and get a v8 with cam gears it up to the tuner to make them suit the turbo set you have. ex back pressure has a large efect with big cams as there is generaly more overlap in which exhaust gasses are forced back into the combustion chamber at the moment there is overlap. alot of these little t28 sized turbines can have as much as 2:1 back pressure so if youve got 20 psi boost. you will have 40psi in the exhaust manifold. so for that short time there is efectivly 20psi boosting its way back into the engine. this can stop power production, this can be seen when more and more boost is added yet the power starts tapering off. also can be seen as black soot evident in the inlet ports.

why not a bw 8375.. like 750 from gcg.....

atleast the rb has a iron front pully not the craptastic alloy one that is a service item at 100k... all gthe 'warmed over" 2jz ive worked on have them cracked. but the kunt things never seem to mind....

ok. after more searching, the front diff is not the same. its a f160a not a F160 like in a rb. but is the same as the new gtr. just need to see if any companys do aftermarket infinity/gtr diff gears.... cool stevo. cheers.

well after much interweb searching on the differances between awd and rear vq 35's ive decided to go with the vq35hr. much better block and head design, also available in awd.. since the chances of finding a skyline 250gt-4 half cut is next to nothing.. i looked up the sump differances.. all can be had from infinity usa for $100 for the 4wd upper oil pan and $60 for the oil filter housing.. lol so cheap. oh and $1200 for the complete front diff assembly. as it is a bolt on unit not cast in like the rb.. fx35 bits now ive just got to find a vq35hr engine..k now of and twin throttle wrecked 350z's anywhere?

how do you get 4mm out? if so your front pipe will be 4mm out to... in wghat dimention are they 4mm differant?

most hks turbo kits come with a 0.8mm restrictor at some point garret changed the restrictor inside the bearing retaining pin from 2 really small holes(prone to blocking up) to 1 larger one. its the single larger ones that tend to smoke abit.

just make sure its the one with a proper cartridge filter not just a perferated disc..

point me in the rite direction! i really dont want to buy a halfcut just for a diff... and finding a 3.5awd engine would be abit tricky?? ps. whats the go with single vct and twin vct? early and late? or is it just the 25 thats got twin?

i am after a vq awd sump badly!!!!! will pay top dollar!! am looking to do the swap in my 32gtr.... ps. is the dif a "f160" model?

finding a vq25 awd sump seems to be abit hard. they are still quite new. bellhousing adapter/cut and weld. or when i get my hollenger il just order it with a vq bellhousing( apparently been made) so the vq engines blocks arnt differant like rb blocks?

hey all, i was wondering if anyone has done a m35 stagea sump on a vq30 or 35 4wd in a r32gtr? i was doing some head porting today on a vq30 head and man are they a much better design than the old rb!! the exhaust would evan rival the intake of a rb... would be a pretty cool conversion, light weight vvt big power potential and 4wd. yes would use a bell housing adapter.. and custom front shaft.. would be a challenge but im sure its possible. any ideas?

the whole point of a dry sump is to eliminate oil surge issues. so if plumbed up normally its a set and forget affair. the only extra thing i would install is an electric gear pump plumbed into the oil feed so it cuts in if the belt breaks or for pre-oiling before start up.

would be perfect! i was going to get one but instead got a s372r from bullseye. someone needs to makle them better known in this country..

depends if you want to smash it into 3rd or not with over 300kw..

thats a very nice power steering mod!

lets see. i wonder what most race cars and drag cars use.. as long as the driveline angle is in check (most of the time its not..) i cant see any problems. besides a longer shaft will have more twist and hence be nicer to the unies..