T04GTR

for 100% street the getrag. presuming you have the r34 giff ratios..

no 1 engine is the same.. you say the ecu is tuned for the turbos.. there is intercooler,exhaust,injectors,headwork,CAMS,and fuel pressure all to bugger it all up. with those cams it will be way rich down low and super lean up top... you need to get it dynoed or it will pop.

cool you can make tnt from it..

i do remember the shell at easter creek had 20 liter drums on a floor display 4-5 years ago.. not sure about now. (methylbensene)

interesting..... although e85 seems easier.

WELL WHEN MINE WAS TUNED IT WAS 375AWKW. dyno comp did 376rwkw.. so f**k all. bear in mind that the skyline has a locked center when on a dyno.. if the transfer was slipping i would expect to see a differance.. not a viscous coupling sapping power.

why? theres twice as many joints to fail..

yeah they guy who i bought it off had a reciept for 12.5k... and if someone buys mine i will have enough for the hollinger... modena are good. but mainly porsche. what about albins?

i wonder what we all did without knock control!!! it really isnt a be all end all function.. some one needs to work out how to adapt a map sensor for nistune...

2 piece shafts are nicer to the car maker. drive line angles etc etc. also as said previously, the critical rpm at wich harmonics take over. 2 short shafts will not hum like a long single one. im no engineer but i dont think the length of a gtr shaft will be an issue. the longest 1 piece in use is the oe ford falcon station wagon at 1.7m.. pre ba series. and its alloy.

you probably need a new cv joint at the rear.. alot of people dont realise that the 1 piece offerd by everyone re uses the 20 yr old cv.... albeit re packed, unless you get uni joints on the back... and a new cv is like 700 bucks or something. i replaced my one with a ba-bf v8 falcon center cv joint. same inner spline and same bolt pcd. only thing is the body needs to be machined to suit the rear dif flange as it fits into it. rather than bolts to it only.

thats why im saving up for a hollinger. ive got the "full monty" ppg atm. and havnt had any problems with it. ive pulled it down recently and has not needed anything yet. its done only 2000km but i wanted to see for myself. but with the car being pulled done and re built i want to upgrade. people spent 20k on a motor no probs so its just a case of slowly saving up...

only if you can get the parts. generaly they last ages unless they have broken or stripped a clutch. thye rest is just standard rebuilds.

one thing ive heard is that people seem to thing that as soon as its got straight cut gears its a dog box and smash the crap out of the synchros... if its actually a dog engadgment box then yes. bang thru them. but i did hear that the par tooling cannot cut a gear with synchro hub or dog face. requiring the dog or synchro face to be friction welded together and its the weld that breaks leaving a loss of drive.

pretty sure its 28 spline for r32gtst/silvia and 29 spline for r33gtst/r32gtr and 30 spline for 33gtr onward yours should be a viscouse lsd with one stub axle having one 28 spline and one smaller all on the one shaft.

oh, the braided hose with the crimped ends and red stripes on it. jj ones have -10 ends but the hose is 1/2" (-8an) in size...

i dont use the o ring fittings. well i modify them. they are a pain in the ass. best thing to do is to put the fitting in the lathe and machine off the o ring lips and use a copper washer with locktie. never had any leaks after. added bonus is when you want to undo them,just the hose end undoes and not the whole fitting. thread tape is a big no no. ive seen so many bb turbos fail from a stray piece of thead tape blocking the oil feed in the turbo.. if it is the kind that just squashes a o ring with no recess for it then just use a washer.. also you should check that the fittings that screw into the filter/adapter block dont go i to far and restrict the oil flow. i always have to take 3-4mm off the total length of the thread.

for a really high low presssure there is a blockage somewhere or the tx valve is stuck open all the way. i wish we copuld just put an orifice tube in there instead... what was the hi pressure reading? and did the pressure drop when you reved it up?

ok. with pon cams and the small exhaust porting my engine went from 305 to 376awkw @25psi.. i doubt the cams were the only power adder???

most cnc jobs ive seen either are a really raw machined finish but as far as im aware you can ask for a smooth/polished surface.

ID BE KEEPING IT SIMPLE. also stick to a list. new r33/34crank or get your old one grub screwed and linished. (crank collar if early 32) the eagle rod/arias piston combo works well give the exhaust ports a touch up on the short side radius head service aswell. supertech valve springs and tomie pon cams. n1 oil pump and ross balancer port matched stock ex manifolds with -5's. and oil restrictors, tomie dump pipes (cast ones) nismo oil/air seperator kit. and a full nitto gasket kit. tomie head oil restrictor. rb20 oil filter boss assembly and aftermarket oil cooler kit (trust or hks) 1000cc injectors (14mm o ring type) with matching rail. sump baffel at a minimum or a hi octane fabricated/baffeled sump probs go a nistune with z32 afms's(cost and knock control features) or a map sensor based ecu. all that should see a very relable 330-400kw (16-25psi)

IN THIS COUNTRY its abit of a black art and those who know dont tell. from my own and some other local hi power track gtr's ive seen the heads of the common thing to do is.. short side radius on inlet and more importantly exhaust. you dont have to touch the port entry at all. most of the material needs to be removed from the short radius and smoothing of the bowl area where the factory has bored for the valve seats. sharp edges are left from the factory tooling. once youve blended them all nicely i go over the whole port with a flapper wheel just to smoth out the carbide bit marks. the exhaust side is where alot of gains can be had. there is a really big step on the short side radius and the bowl area is quite square shaped. so blending all that nicly takes a really small bit and lots of time. the hump in the port opening can be removed with no down sides. without going into alot of details it is alot easier to do it with the guides removed. the combustion chamber doesnt need much. i prefer to leave the squish pads there but generaly just unshroud the valves. so the chamber will have the squish pads partialy removed around the valves. and the edges rounded. then once you have cc'd them to the same go nuts with the polishing. really rough up the inlet port and polish the exhaust and chamber. a flex shaft tool is a must. or a long die grinder that can take 1/4 and 1/8 shanks. it takes easily 2 hours a port if you take your time. ages!! but thats with the guides installed. they get in the way especialy the exhaust. i would cnc in future. because it long and hard work. but for a quick garenteed gain id just open up the short radius on the exhaust and leave it at that. thats all i did on my gf engine. (rb25) no changes except for valve springs and exhaust for mod went from 270kw to 305kw on first pull. no tune changes same boost.. hope that helps

i was looking at up grading. but ive yet to have a missfire with 1.1 plug gap and 30psi.. with my waste spark rx7 coils. bulky and abit messy.

you would be much better off getting the nismo oil air seperater kit.. it actually works and returns the oil to the sump.

the m and w coils seem to be the go. (modified mercry ones) i personaly use mazda 13b coils.. mounted on a bracket above the loom.