T04GTR

you can use one with no down sides. (the one in the middle of the block) the front one supplies the vct)

"The workshop that built the motor removed that mesh filter and ran a straight pipe. I have no idea why" please explain? from what i heard it was advised that the sump/pickup was of a very inferior design and was a reason for previous failures, and it should not be used..this was disregarded, the "filter" i was told had nothing in it and was simply replaced with a -12 hose. since an empty filter housing will not filter and can create a restriction. unfortunatly at the end of the day, if the sump and or pick up was "allowed" to be modified to the standards of the workshop in question, this would still be going.. also a picture of the oil pickup installed in the sump will explain allot to those people who are struggling to grasp the nature of the failure. im sure the workshop who built the motor would of not installed the rocker covers with bolts broken off. it almost sounds that you are insinuating sabotage? mayby someone pulled the covers of, broke the heads of and then added them later at an oil change? please.. i get the impression that this is a very one sided debate with not all the facts out on the table. like i said. a picture is 1000 words.

if your paying for new pistons its a good idea to throw some rods at it. a minor cost in the grand scheme of things.

how about a nice big picture of the sump that has been used on the engine from the get go? im sure the actual cause will present its self in spite of what some people may think.

os 88 and os88v2 is a complete os giken design. nothing to do with hollinger. pros.. bigger than a hollinger. apparently shifts well. cons. 1 piece lay shaft. ie. cant mix and match ratios, and over seas so parts are abit harder to get. also intergral bellhousing not seperate. both use the chev 26 spline input shaft. ie os r3c etc clutch or custom setup. both come with a digital display for gear selected. the os is fairly new on the block so not as well used as hollinger.

ihi rx8 indy turbo.. the compressor cover and backplate are made from magnesium and hard anodized the comp wheel is investment cast titanium and is ptfe coated( teflon) inducer is 74mm,exducer is 91mm a/r is 1.0 the turbine housing is investment cast from titanium it uses v band clamps for manifold and outlet. the turbine wheel is a super alloy inconel 738. inducer is 89mm,exducer 79mm the a/r is 1.2

IF YOU HAVE A HEAP OF BACK PRESSURE it may help. but thats a pretty small turbo for a rb25.... chances are you have some mad back pressure.

RAD!

that is an example of what not to do.. but proves it works! a gearbox that recomends an atf fluid should have the yellow super lightweight in it. you dont want to go to far from the factory viscosity

yes. that is the nice way. or you could remove the back of the pump, get a magnet and remove all the vanes. put it back on and block off the outlet. can be done in the car.

fine. il eat my words. it is alot better. kinda like turning the boost up but not..

THE COST OF REBUILDING A TURBO OFTEN EXCEEDS A NEW CORE OR CHRA.

lolzz. looks pretty functional.

yeah no problem, ignore everyone who has first hand experiance and go on what castrol oe factory fill says. you have a completly standard car? and want the lowest grade oil? no problem. may aswel take it to nissan for a service. dude. the fact that redline do a specific synchro oil, is one thing. but the fact remains that the shockproof light PROTECTS the selector hubs from damage caused by crunching. you want your gearbox to last on a side note, frank modena of modena gears who do ALOT of competition dog boxes recomends using castrol lsx140 mineral lsd oil for the gears....

factory is divided... the vl turbo guys weld a wastegate flange onto the top of the collector

that is really nice! but its an expencive 250rpm gain in response and 35hp

.84 twin entry on a ebay manifold had full boost by 4k in a loaded gear, anout 5k in 1st. (t04z) 115 is a rotary sized housing, evan .96 is to big. most turbo shops will have some laying around. p trim turbine .

i do know how to plumb... im talking in a perfect setup. not a half-way backyard track hack setup. take a look at the gibson gtr fuel system. all that to supply a hilborn mechanical fuel pump. if you could stick to cheap walbro's in the tank to fill the surge that would cover 99% of the street cars out there. and in most cases trying to fit a 3+ litre surge tank under the car isnt easy. and if you are one of those who is worried about weight, running a skyline at 1/4 tank at a track day is a big ask.

wrong!! TEFLON OR HARD METAL PIPES are the only way to go for no smell. (btw most of the really hi end hoses like xrp 79 and pro-gold teflon are a more flexible hose than the regular pure teflon braided stuff that use an olive to terminate)

damn, thats crazy. id hate to see the boost leval...

JUST A QUICK SIDE NOTE, the "pre pump" ie the the one that fills the surge tank must outflow the main pressure pumps or you will run into trouble. 2 044's/ put a carter or holley blue in there instead of the stock pump.. the size of the surge tank has to be big enough to sustain the main pumps for less than 10 seconds. and the bigger the lift pump the smaller it can be. as for smell. teflon or solid lines are the only option for no smells. evan under the car. because you now have double or three times the length of hose leaking smells.

so are you fitting a pull type clutch? im not sure there a differant thickness bearing carriers.. if its a push type.... then you need all the early gtr hardware including a 12mm bearing carrier and bearing (smaller diameter face) available from otomoto..

vmx80 is like water in comparison. back when i had my dr30 i blew up 12 fj20 gearboxes. they lasted twice as long when i put in syntrax. and then longer again when i put in redline shockproof. my gtr. i was running redline shockproof for over a year. then broke the input shaft gear. put in another gtr box, with syntrax. (had some at work when i was doing the change) it lasted a week before it sheered all the teath of third. then bought a ppg.... for someone who treats there gearbox like a mongrel, i would suggest using the redline. lightweight. (blue one) the data sheets will not really tell you anything. you need a very high sheer load but at the same time not being so slippery as to not make the synchros work..

cant go past the supertech ones. 600 ish of ebay. good for 13mm lift and comes with titanium retainers. and they actually have a HIGHER SEAT PRESURE wich alot of the jap springs dont.

you have twice as much boundary layer with 2 pipes.. so i would say with confidance that a 4" pipe will flow better. and if its going from a single to 2, then you have to take into account the transition.