T04GTR

hows the progress?

lol. always something simple.. what sort of ampage does the a1000 pull? ive seen a bosch 044 burn out a 30 amp relay.. (more to do with the poor contact with some aftermarket relay holders melting

after the first blow up, was a new crank collar fitted? not a bunrnout/rev limmiter motr is it?

so this black smoke, has it just started with this build or has it just happened out of the blue? you could check your duty cycle on the injectors at the point it starts blowing soot. and try playing with the injector end angle aswell. mayby you have got a unevan mixture (black smoke) because the injectors are squirting on an open valve and not a closed one.. another idea is to crank up the fuel pressure to reduce the duty cycle and improve atomisation. you have an 044 so 65-70psi base pressure is fine!

sory to here.. assholes. ps, nice work on the cnc!

ok, then why on the r34gtr i serviced had yellow redline oil in the gearbox, and red atf in the transfer case, both with seperate fill points....

cant use aircon with ati 1000hp. (25% overdrive....)

i would get the ross one. local and they do a nice external crank trigger set up aswell if you ever need it. no orings to replace and doesnt have the belts running on the damper part of it. (bad if they do)

instilation error is the only way. from the look of it, where it has broken is the loaded lobe when instaling. ie cam clocked in the timing of #1 tdc.. they can get caught on the front thrust bearing/cap if not done very carefully.

tunes dont just fall away. either its a injector problem, or its a faulty ecu. (that is if it was fine and now it isnt..) from the sounds of it you may need to do some swapsies with some friends who have the same afm...

(Well the aussies general rule is to tune rbs to a full load afr of 12 and then tweak ign timing to suit for max power where as the japs throw in a shit load of fuel eg 10.5-10.0(keeping in mind that their pump is 100+) and then throw in a shit load of timing on top of that..) one might say your question is, do you want a sas tune or a crd tune. both very good but both very differant.

do not run a motec unless your are going to use ALL the features. power fc is good, but you still have a afm getting in the way.(makes doing a legal air box abit tricky if your not running stock turbo/suction pipe.) link or vipec plug in would be the go. id say autronic but as far as features go the vipec/link have more.

600's will be fine. depending on the type. 550's will be pushing it. so 600 is ok. for cheap is good, but your not planning to get more power later? better to get big ones and leave some head room. (awkw/rwkw SAME)

what about nice etfe mil-spec wire?

yeah lol, my bet is the feed was restricted. sounds to me it was cavitating...

was it a new pump?

i didnt know the gearbox shared the same oil, r34gtr i worked on recently has seperate fills. redline yellow in the box and redline aft in the transfer..... the fact that both oils are probably red in your car, you could have no oil in the box.... and way to much in the transfer.

no, its on the back burner for now. saving for hollinger

this is my 5 stage one. as you can see there is not enough room for it to come back any more because of the engine mount. this is with a highmout single turbo, stock twins,no chance of fitting. depending on how the last section is, you may be able to fit it, but i doubt it.

so no big ends? was an exhaust leak? lol?

also, check the drivers side rack bush. it is usually covered in oil and perished. with the car on the ground jiggle the steering wheel. you will be able to see the rack move side to side if it is worn.. this can feel like freeplay when driving.

noted. peak torque at 7k? where did you get that figure from? the engine in question was paul, dirt gararge.. went from 260's to 288 jun and made low rpm torque gains.. i do see with the brakes etc etc. tuning wise, should be fuel of the tps, just like na with map for ignition and fuel once at zero or near to it. pretty standard gtr tuning concept..

get multi meter and adjust the throttle switch to 0.4volts at idle. if still no good, you need to splice in the attessa tps signal wire to the engine ecu signal wire.(bypassing the in/out that the ecu uses)

nothing wrong with big cams. just need to play with the timing to move it all around. it has been proven a few times to get low end gains from larger cams. once the turbo is boosting all normal cam concepts go out the window.

do you mean dead as in freeplay, or no assistance?