T04GTR

stock 26 deck height is 0.5mm above the deck a few i have heard of are custom cp's. a fresh decked head will come in around 64cc. (just measured one at work)

well its abit hard to mesure the oval x section of a cast manifold. what with all the bumps and turns and differant radius's it starts off as the same exact size as the port then turns away... so by forming a round pipe to the same size as the port is easier. and it just so happens that run of the mill 1.5" stainless pipe is the same. so in mm its about 35mm. 38mm outside minus 1.6mm wall thickness. cheers.

haha. i can sell some "nismo" control arms ,il paint them silver.... drag version box. no... 3 or 5 speed. only. 4th is no gear. just a direct drive.

inner are 2mm wider than the outer bracket. if the noltec ones are the same on both ends then thats the drama

f50,and f40 calipers are diferant. f40 suited for 343mm f50 355mm disc. f50 has 40 and 44mm pistons f40 has 38 and 44mm pistons ive used f40 ones. they have been on fire and still were fine. the seals were still mint. good caliper.

yeah, id stick to imperial. far easier.

without a mill to put the block in, would be hard to get it exact

just do it with an old gasket. besides is a 15min job anyway...

you can read?

that moroso kit looks the business!

pipe cleaners, but for the life of me no one knows where to buy them. theres the "brush man" that comes around that no one knows and apparently pipe as is pop eye, pipe cleaners from the tobaconist

what ecu are you using? if it has an adjustable dwell setting then any coil will do. wasted spark is good but your are halving the dwell time with that option. if in doubt cdi is the way to go. of the waste spark coils i have used, rx7 s4 is the best. then 1ggeu then mitsu gto tt coil pack. of them the mitsu coil had the easiest mounting options.

1.1/4 " id pipe is the same x section as the port. any bigger is usless and makes for lag. 1.5"external diameter 1.6mm wall stainless pipe squashed to an oval is the perfect size for the port/flange plate.

there is NO GAIN from going bigger than the piping. so a 75mm tb is perfect. xt6t across from my work made 538kw @ wheels with a 75mm tb. so your 2 litre something will do fine.

thats a cool mod, but why didnt nissan use this mod?

all are the same rating, but..... the p trim wheel has a quite narrow eficancy range. going from a .84 split to a .96 open will give more power, how much really depends on the engine combo. but will be noticably laggier. what have you got?

the metal is seasoned. years of heating and cooling makes the iron tougher. bmw used and proved this with there m20 f1 turbo engines. all were 100,000 mile old blocks sourced from scrap yards because they would hold together alot longer than new m20 blocks. basicly all the heat and vibration cycles relax and stress relieve the metal so it has a higher threshhold for stress fractures because it is efectivly "heat treated" over a long period of time. most new truck blocks are left out in the weather for up to a year when they are made. hence the term "weatherd block" im sure if someone got a brand new rb30 block it would not take as much abuse as a 200k old one from the wreckers.

what about piston pin oiling? any dramas? what level of vacuum does this become a problem? ps is it spelt vacume,vacum or vacuum?

yes it will. same clutch. pull type.

ross all the way.

ls1 coils will explode. they have interal igniters. i have spent ages trying to find a propper "cdi" spec coil for my autronic. i have been using s4 13b 2 post coils. the 1ggze 2 post ones are good to, aswell as gto tt cols. i dont like the idea of running 2 coils in parallel for waste spark. each coil will be getting halve the energy. but it has been made to work well with the factory 26 coils. for cdi you want the lowest inductance coil you can find. higher inductance makes good spark in normal transistor ignition, but for cdi they take to long to saturate. they work but not ideal. motobike coils are the gun thing but ive yet to test any. in your case id just use the factory coils wired in parallel. having said all that, i can get a 3" spark from my mazda/denso 13b coils. but they are really big.

oh i see. i did not realise that.

unless you have everthing stock. ie camber, caster, ride height the bushes will flog out... if anything is changed the upright wants to tilt off the original axis and twist a couple of degrees. the midori style arms work for a while but because of the twisting motion they always come loose and eventualy the thread will gall up ans make a creeking noise. the uas ones are more expensive but do not bind and are very easy to adjust. i have replaced many adjustable arms, noltec and all the differant adjustable bushes. (my grubby hand in duncans pic) for some reason the light blue bushes in the sliding arms turn to powder. and for the record each uas arm is hand assembled to matching components to ensure reliability and function. this takes some time to do hence the extra cost.

perhaps if it was 8.37:1,or 8.35:1 your issues will go away..... if the engine was put together "corectly" and tuned "properly" you could just keep putting boost into it till it stops making power. which will be injectors,spark breakdown,turbine back pressure, valve springs. generaly in that order. not your comp ratio. back in the day, "group a" ran 7:1 nowdays 9.5-10:1 is the go. fuels and ecu's are alot better today. all for about the same power. with spark, it will missfire or not missfire. changing coils will not solve the problem. (unles they leak) alot of the jap drag cars still use stock coils.

cant be n1 pistons, differant pin height. and the only differance is "slightly" thicker ringlands, thats it. as for the oil pump, i dont think so.