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T04GTR

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Everything posted by T04GTR

  1. an oil filter is an oil filter, and are all made to the same micron filtration level. the only diff is the quality of the drain back valve and sealing gasket.
  2. goes to show how stupid the power fc is when it comes to "knock detection" how it cant see the differance from bearing knock and pinging........ genuine oil filter is best. any one with a anti drain back valve. and if its on a remote filter mount it will amplify the problem, unless the filter is upside down so it cant empty overnight..
  3. whats the reason for the weights? also.. with regards to balancing, going from a stock single counter crank, to a full counter crank, what is the effect on crank balancing and piston/rod weights?
  4. rad!! didnt want to go the 22lb siemens? $160 usd deka 4 220 lb/hr tech specs
  5. who wants to build a pro stock tractor puller out of the heap they have there..??
  6. already got about 30m of nice coax and some other things....
  7. would be a great upgrade if you want to have a very efective antilag setup/idle control setup. ve commodore 6 litre uses a 90mm unit.
  8. they dont have to be conected to anything, but helps if they are just joined by quicker warm up and better coolant bleeding. also if you are running a water cooled turbo, that where you can rout them.. if joining normal 5/8 hose is ok.
  9. haltech,autronic, are the main stream ones id look into. all around 2k. ems,vipec,link,adaptronic,wolf. "can" be just as good but due to there low usage tuning can be abit hard to find. microtech is good but from past experiances on there older models tuning resolution is abit poor. not sure on there newer "LT" models motec is very good, but unless its a top of the line m800 etc etc tuning software is still dos based and the fact you have to "buy" options for them ontop of there already high price is abit of a turn off. my pic of the bunch is autronic. very reliable and easy to tune. (ie: low cost of tuning) id steer clear of a maf only ecu. (i say maf only because most of the above ecus can run a maf sensor aswell,) makes plumning easier and a map sensor is far better than a 20 year old air flow meter that maxes out and then is tuned by a good guess.. power fc is a great choice for plug and play, but autronic and haltech and motec do plug ecus. either in the stock case or use a patch loom. cheeres.
  10. what is the dome cc of a rb25 piston?
  11. interesting. have you noticed any extra timing chain rattle on start up? not meaning to scare you but when mine started playing up it dropped the lower jackshaft chain and f**ked the motor... might pay to pull the roker cover off and check if the cam timing is ok and the ignition timing is as it should. have you got a cat converter? check its not melted. it would have to be a very big leak to reduce power. but.. it has nothin gto do with lag. if anything the oposite, as once the exhaust is leaking past the guide, the gate must be open, ie: on boost, so if anything it will overboost as the boost presure will be leaking past the guide intoducing a airleak in your wastegate plumbing. thats a gt35? have you checked the turbo shaft play? also are they rx7 injectors? i put them in my fj20. the fuel line i squeezed over the end of them had the inner shieth bunched up on the end of one of the injectors resticting it. and i melted a piston. with your plenum, not great. you should use the factor turbo one. dr30. use a 180b brake booster. much smaller if thats why you changed it. also the na plenum is bigger and has slightly smaller runners and will give you better midrange without any loss up top. use a xf falcon throttle body.
  12. 30 blocks have all the oil lines there.. turbo or na all the same. 99% sure. and 99% of 30det's running around started life as $100 clapped out auto r31/vl commodoore engines
  13. lag or heaps of lag?
  14. uras is right. steel bango lines are the way to go.
  15. done 45k~ on mine with 376awkw no dramas. gf car has around the same, rb25. 50k and going strong.
  16. so you want to turbo your n/a rb25? chances are the turbo head will be abit secondhand. easy. just run a teflon -4 line from the oil pressure switch. (steel t piece it) not brass. im not sure if the n/a block has the oil return tapped into the block and just plugged. so a custom oil return will be needed if not.(as high as possible) ps.. the oil coming out of the breather has nothing to do with oil pressure or lag. just blowby. you will need to swap all the electrics over from the 25t. and the parts that dont fit on the na block/head will still have to be plugged in, in order for it to work properly if you are using the stock ecu. dont bother about lowering the compression.
  17. ANY synthetic hose apart from teflon will melt. if it doesnt melt it will get very brittle. best thing to do is to get some heat sleave ($100/m) and put some "fire foil" over it. basicly just insulate the shit out of it. it would be better to change them all to teflon braided hose. abit expencive but you wont have to worry about them braking 300km from home..
  18. ok, to save everyone your headache. take to mechanic or do it youself. borrow or buy a aftermarket oil pressure gauge.(not autometer or any one that uses olives on nylon tubing) the thread on the block/engine is 1/8 npt. install it, and check. ps..every car really needs one. factory is shit.
  19. in what respect?
  20. v bands are easier. the springy ones. the 2 piece ones are pretty fidly.. but flanges do allow for some missalignment if you much it up somewhere.
  21. back on topic. lol. my bad..
  22. yeah for sure. in my pants!! happy new year too.
  23. injector plugs differant. of set up to run cdi not nissan igniter.. can be done but not set up for it.
  24. cool. im decided on a platnuim 2000 mainly because i can run 12 injectors sequentialy, yes? anyone after a autronic smc (hi current inj drivers) + loom for rb26 cheap?
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