T04GTR

3.5" GTR TI EXHAUST? you could sell it and get one custom made out of stainless with change

our one for the supra, the flywheel didnt have the same chamfer on the crank flange as stock so it wasnt sitting home properly. bolts came loose and f**ked the crank and the alloy flywheels ive seen the screws come loose on the friction disk and destroy the clutch.

id get a ross one. couple of hundred. better than standard ie. makes oil pump last alot longer

weve used castrol syntrax in our supra race car for the last 4 years with no problems..

you could use stainless. and braze it. ie swage the stainless pipe up so the ti fits into it and braize/silver solder it. yeah titanium is a hard and expecive material to weld. often cracks at the weld aswell if its not exacly the same grade too. :S

because the factory tuning thinks its got more air coming in from the standard turbs. only way to fix it is re tune.

NO

was it a bush turbo or ball bearing? did it have the standard oil lines going to it? if so then that why its gone. if its ball bearing then one of the oil passages is blocked in the turbo.. thread tape, silastic etc etc. if you grab the comp wheel, does it pull in and out?

dont be afraid of non ball bearing. one thing not mentioned is boost pressure between the bw and garrett. but who runs 35psi on a track car anyway il be testing my bullseye s372r soon.

s256 vs gt3582r bullseye power s256 a good comparison gt35 vs borg warner

i was going to get a gtk. but through hours of searching on the net in the us, i didnt get one. seems the fancy comp housing and relativly small exhaust housings are a restriction, something in the reigon of 60-65mm inducer will do. its either garrett or borg-warner/bullseye ive had a thrust bearing go on a tdo6 not sure how much stronger the l2 version is but.

plan for the worst. turbos, and crank and oil pump. and if you dont need them then thats cash in your pocket.

chain drive?

have you messured the diametre of it? rb25 and z32 are both 80mm so a similar voltage would be expected i spose. also z32 is a old stlye hot wire design (thin wires in the airpath), where as 25 is a hot film design (flat plate in the airstream) thats not a z32 plug... mayby a late model one? if its got 30p anywhere in the part number its a z32 series. could it be out of a laural or something?

if its not stock then thats your issue.

ps. i have about 40 2.5l bottles of sin 80 if anyone wants some for less then retail.(were sponsord by them

sin 75 and sin 80 are hypoid diff oils. not sutible for your gearbox. penrite manual gear 70 is the corect oil.

i dont have it on hand, but you need to basicly snip it from the oe ecu plug and splice it into the new loom. in the factory ecu the signals mentioned above go into the ecu and back out via a differant pin. all that needs to be done is these signal wires going FROM the ecu to the attessa to be cut and joined into the INPUT pin on the ecu so there is no "relaying" of signals. ive had to do this mod for power fc's as some of them "loose" the output for tps some how..

interesting, so the aftermarket oe REPLACEMENT afm's from bosch are no good? why are they a oe replacment? putting a bigger airflow meter on with standard ecu is pointless. just like throwing a big four barrel on a mini... unless tuned you will go backwards. also the voltage logs above appear to have no real gain in putting a z32 on? as its outputing the same voltage? ie it will max out at the same cfm as standard it would appear.

ive had great success with 2 on mains and 1.8 on bigends with 4 thrust , using a 15w40 or 10w60 with a jun pump hot max oil pressure is 7-7.5 bar by 4500

its cavitating. verry common. you can fix it by switching off and then on, but it will come back. just put a 044 in there. ps. 040 is only rated about 200mls more than a stock gtr pump.

only things that you have to worry about are : tps signal to atessa spliced into the tps sensor wire. rpm signal to attessa spliced into tacho out speed signal wire to attessa spliced into loom near ecu. with a rb26 ecu pinout diagram its a 5 min job with a pair of side cutters and a soldering iron the rest is a straight forward wire up..

bonet latch sold. black shell sold. rear swaybar sold black l/h guard on hold, black bootlid on hold.

gt springs on hold v-max 9k springs and retainers sold pending payment.

item one has a circlip on the end of it so it clips in and doesnt fall out. if its missing any driveshaft shop should have one. ps.. make sure it not sitting in the the diff centre.. item two is a straight swap but swap the bearing cone from the damaged one over and all the shimms with the dammaged one. (critical too keep the factory backlash and bearing preload.)