T04GTR

lol. yes common fitmant to most n/a nissans etc etc. everything is differant nothing will swap over. cheeres

and tis mod to the oe bov has done what on the dyno?

things that make it last. safe tune keeping it under 8k with a soft limiter. not thrashing till the oil is up to 70 degrees or so. good air cleaner (not k and n) foam types filter the best. if you can incoporate a paper one then better lots of oil. kepping everything under 110 degrees. oh and obviously a well put together bottom end.. my engine did 50k before i pulled it out with 376awkw on 1.6 bar ,didnt loose 1kw on same dyno from initial tune to last time it was run. not much blowby but having a good sump is key. 100k between rebuilds shouldnt be out of the question.

nar. shel be right. if you want to be creative take it for a thrash and get it cherry red and use a tyre leaver between the FLANGE and head. (not the housings) a gentle leaver should give you a mm or so..

are they these? gt monobloc

umm, you will have to organise shipping. i have the guard and radiator. will be shipped out of wetherill park 2164 nsw. a pallet would be a option. cheeres

bonnet latch sold [pending payment. still heaps of stuff available

what differances were noticed when upgrading?

damn.. using the cima style set up?

ive just built one for a race 202, make sure you have it sitting on engine mounts.. other wise it will shake rattle and roll all over the floor.

they are fully devided, and on the td08 they are of a differant size. ie front half is .9a/r rear half is .7 a/r etc etc

they are both/all the same. n1 has a bigger entry to the turbo (matches t25 lnon standard ex housings,where as stock is abit smaller but still t25)

year 300kw on 1.5 bar with 34 n1's

only use the standard nissan one. about 50 bucks but is 10 times better than the single layer generic ones out there... ps if its not completly rooted yoy can just tighten up the loose nuts for the turbo.

ps jhon, that looks very much like bosenjack's work

best way to go about it is adapting v8 super car brakes. they run 17's but not your normal ones.... things you need to look for are pad availability, and pad thickness. anything taking less than 25mm thick pads is a waste on a race car in my opinion. also thick rotors 32mm isnt gonna last. 35 and 36mm thick is the norm these days. for comparisons, i got my 355x35 pfc direct drive rotors for about 650 each. where as a brand new ap supercar rotors at 375x35 were only 510 each lol.... but i can get my pads of ebay ex-nascar for $100 a set of brand new bedded pads, where as the supercar pads are about 800 a set brand new.. hats wherever you go will be on average 500 each for a floater with anadising regardless of what size disc.. anyone know off any brembo front supercar calipers for sale?

well this is all very interesting. porche figured this out with the 924 turbo.. with a factory oil air seperator then off to the breather pipe. nismo has a oil air seperator for the gtr that t's into the rear turbo drain to return the oil with the air continuing on to the rear breather.

oh, is there any paint on them?

if they are tomie, and have etainers then they are probably type b's. wich with your jun cams will do the trick. best to mesure the installed hieght and see what the seat pressure is. more often than not most jap springs and retainers have the spring sitting higher up. ie longer to compensate for the extra lift required with a thicker spring wire. so you need a spring tester to see whats going on. seat pressure and then your 10.5mm of lift and still have enough travel so they dont spring bind.

pics, specs?

g sensor sold!

yes i know thry didnt cost you 8k richard you know what im talking about...

ALL FS5R30A designation. ie same. ratios abit differant from each model, and the newer it is the better the synchros are, but same gears.

sounds to me you have a cerametalic clutch in it.

not sure about the machined surface on the retainer but,