T04GTR

thats why i work for a race team. as soon as the welder or lathe or mill gets used its $140/hr...... but we only do race cars. and the pay is shit people dont seem to understand that a "custom" job isnt like a "bolt on" kit.. ive f**ked around for 2 days now doing the diff and gearbox coolers for the ute that we are running in the 12hr.. just takes ages.. end rant .. bring out your car adrian i live 10 mins from the wsid..

86k later and refer to sig...... lol.

you must have one big ass 300+ amp tig there!!!

i knew that i should of orderd the $78 blitz gtr manifold adapter plate when i was at autobarn.. doh.. funny what you find in the system when your bored. i just typed in the search "rb26" and bang...

the chemical dude next to my workshop can jet me denatured ethanol (meths) for $1.30/L E98 anyone??

from what ive been seeing people seem to use the smaller ones or bigger ones.. not much around in the middle (368-374) it will be interesting to see the differance from my t04z to a 372.... pitty they are uber expensive here from the dollar. i got a quote from nz. $3450nzd!!!! lol.

owwwww nice to see some one with a 372. i take it has the bigger 87mm turbine wheel if its a s400 label?? il be getting mine (borg warner) very shortly

because they are refering the gtst box as a 33 one.. 32 uses a smaller box same as sr20

yes. the only differance is the auto ecu is similar to a gtr one, ie it relays the tps signal to the auto ecu.. apart from that im 99% it will work. what is no.6 fuse for?

yeah, early ones (non gtr) have 11mm bolts late ones have 12mm bolts. are you sure that its a gtr 2 way not an s13 one? do the stub axels fit?

yeah, i just think the 35 is boring compared to t04z, besides hks doesnt do a gt35 equivalent.... lagmaster ftw.

you would be better of getting a decent harmonic balancer to soak up the oil pump smashing vibrations from your rb30 crank.

to me it felt like the inertia of the t4 kept it spinning longer than the 35r inbetween changes. both cars had a properly functioning bov vented to atmo (ie no flutter)

i was supprised and sold at the same time....borg warner s374r vs gt4088r on 18pound rb26

a t04z will run out of puff. check my comparo i found between a 4088 and a s374 borg warner....... im changing to one (s372r) a gt4294 or a combo gt4298r? or 4598r would be easy to get that power. but will be laggy.

ive drivven both round a track. the 35 is more lazy and comes on sooner but much less urgantly. it drops right of on gearchanges t04z has to be driven in anger comes on much harder but makes more power. it is much laggier on the track but. it doesnt drop of nearly as much as on gearchanges once its going. unless you are a gun driver (which im not) the 35r will be a better choice. but you will miss the exitement and power of a t04z. you really need to work out if you can live with lag. 350-400kw is a very broad and dificult target to reach with minimul lag.

just my 2c on failures i have seen.

interesting. lets see. dammaged main bearings. lets see the photos. also lets see the crankshaft in question. has it been grub screwed? or just linnished prior to assembly. did you have arp studs in the mains? if so was it linebored? did you use arp head studs? if so was it torque plate honed? what was the end float of the crank once installed? what was the bearing clearances of the mains? having blocked pick up? had it done 300000kms or had no oil changes? what was your oil pressure like. on cold start, hot idle, hot >5000rpm. (with a non standard acurate guage) i would like to see the oil pump. if its dammaged, youve overreved it. the ONLY things the ware out mains and they are not auidable are: bent crank,to tight oil clearance,incorrect thrust. ie to tight. and 99.9% of the time its shit in the oil. sounds to me the only thing that killed your engine is shit in the oil. if all the other bearings are ok. like the bigends have no scratches on them, then its definatly shit in the engine. oil starvation starts at both ends of the crank. ie: 1 and 6 are the worst. 3 and 4 are the best. its the opposite for oil contamination. check all the bearings all laid out in order. for an engineer to say "bore wash" is an absolut load of shit and will be thrown out. besides its a non standard engine and reqires more oil changes. ive had my oil so wet with fuel it was like water and no bearings were scuffed after it was pulled down 50,000k later.... dirty engine rooms and not cleaning out crank and block galleries is what kills engine beaings early.

aahahha, no. just noone sells them here.

hi all, just wondering if anyone knows where to buy the bullseye power turbos here in australia... ie s366r and s372r etc etc.. cheeres gt4088 vs s374 borg warner... lol. funny how the big one comes on the same and makes 115hp more..

if you want the noise try a borg warner... they sound insane and seem to shit all over the garrets in power and responce despite being bush bearing

that's awesome!!!! pity i couldn't see it.

il do it. wetherill park. not far from hills.

*anna here* ^^ thanks BK... I understand whats involved and only drive 3kms to work each day.. besides there are a few spare daily's laying around for the quick jaunt to the local shops.... Daves has the PPG full monty dog box... which I have experienced... at least it drowns out the sound of his damn brakes! There is only one synchro still in tact in my gearbox and thats 1st ..... and that's borderline..... whoops.... The PAR synchro option is only a strengthened 5th which is useless to me... and I have been told that I am rough on my gearbox anyways.. (slamming into gear and not waiting for synchros - especially at the track) The dog box will outlast the synchro option by far and the cost of replacing a synchro works out roughly the same replacing a dog gear anyways And yes lots of track days planned now the car is finished .... and with Dave driving mine as well (he likes to destroy std and OS Giken boxes, granted both our cars have in excess of 350rwkw) its the only sensible option in terms of reliability and factoring in rebuild costs..

*anna here* Ok did my research Decision - I wants a PAR full billet 5 speed straight cut dogbox (yes they are billet forks , i checked it out today) .... Your pricing is for synchro-mesh ... I wants the true dog box....ie Daves PPG with out the 11K price tag Be needing it soon.... my gearbox is holding together by a thread.... lol So price on me dropping the box off and picking it back up.. we can throw it in the car ourselves P.s... call me Steveo... got some interesting info