T04GTR

HEY ALL, just doing a poll to see where the bulk of the work in the auto trade lies. is it me, or are other mechanics twiddling there thumbs of late. cheers.

that is gonna breath alot. 10 and 15 with 28psi, 50,000km empty catch can...

the gaps from cp are shit. blowby city. if you are going to revv it heaps yopu must have the second ring a good 5 thou looser. i have done 10 on the top 15 on the second with good results. that is with nitrided chrome rings. fyi. stock nissan vg30dett gaps are 9 on the top and 25 on the second...

not a skyline, renault clio, sock exhaust . 2" press bent with lots of mufflers. went to a 2.5" no cat and 2 straight thu mufflers gained 10% @ wheels.

double post.

pretty sure the hanger that goes onto the rear x member is the only differance. so yes it will fit.

pitty those shocks are not really a "racing" style. i find the valving is nowhere. we had a customer with them in his r32. pulled them out and put in his old tien superstreets and was 4 sec quicker at eastern creek... dont need the rain on your parade, but if you have the oportunity to swap them for the normal bc's id advise it.

pitty those shocks are not really a "racing" style. i find the valving is nowhere. we had a customer with them in his r32. pulled them out and put in his old tien superstreets and was 4 sec quicker at eastern creek... dont need the rain on your parade, but if you have the oportunity to swap them for the normal bc's id advise it.

pitty those shocks are not really a "racing" style. i find the valving is nowhere. we had a customer with them in his r32. pulled them out and put in his old tien superstreets and was 4 sec quicker at eastern creek... dont need the rain on your parade, but if you have the oportunity to swap them for the normal bc's id advise it.

pitty those shocks are not really a "racing" style. i find the valving is nowhere. we had a customer with them in his r32. pulled them out and put in his old tien superstreets and was 4 sec quicker at eastern creek... dont need the rain on your parade, but if you have the oportunity to swap them for the normal bc's id advise it.

get them in a 45 profile and go faster at the track

similar argument would be to build up a full house L series and put that in........

any ester based oils are no good for e85 its not the moisture that is the issue, a byproduct of burning ethanol breaks down the oil molecular structure. "hydrocracked" synthetics are "more" suitable, something about the ethanol structure wich is close to the chemiclas used to make/blend the oil, so it starts being "unmade" if that makes sense. straight from our motul rep, liquimoly rep and penrite rep. would be worth asking holden what they use for there flex fuel commo.. as far as oils go, penrite syn 15 is my oil of choice. 15w50

pro cams. pretty sure they come in a 260 degree with the small base circle

throw a double row timing chain at it. when i was with the ute team, we started snapping timing chains very regularly.

do it! there is a reason nissan went from the vq30tt to a vk45de in there gt500 car, and in gt1. sounds like arse but goes great. no lag, flat torque curve. and it will do 100k befor any rebuild is needed. t56 box is also tough as nails. abit slow shifting but strong. also whats the go with engineering these days?

plenty of 1000hp race engines using a 75mm throttle body, and 3" piping to. 72 is a good size. abit bigger than stock but not so big that it will have nothing off boost.

no. z31 r200. if you have a r180 (wich you do.) you need to goto the wreckers and find a r30 shaft. if it was r200 you can get hr31 shafts, either all its hard to find. im pretty sure all earlier models had uni joints.

its not taperd,..... yes. it will push out. you will need to heat it up and make a puller, of a workshop can do it. the non hicas bush will go in in its place..

open boot, with hand/fingers on top of shock nut, bounce the car. you will be able to feel it. if it has no movement between the shock shaft and the body, its the valve in the shock, if it moves, theres you noise. new bearing needed. teleflex should have.

yes. the line between the "real' and fake walbos has blured somewhat. china being on par with oe stuff now makes them same same. the deutchwerks pumps being turbine are in thery a fit and forget. having no pump elements to ware. and good to 100psi. but with most small diameter pumps 70 psi is about as far as id go.

"gs" part number = real, "gss" = not a part number used by walbro... both perform the same.

im not aware haltech has a "fuel selection" option in the software yet.

are they meant to be forged or something? what clearances do they run?

dan, cool. i have measured just over 1 thou out of round with the studs. some are worse than others. and some dont deform. simply doing the bolts up to less than specified is scary. out of curiosity how did you measure the stud stretch? in a jig of some sorts? each engine is differant. if it is out of round it will ware badly. arp studs are a torque to yield fastner and are designed to stretch an amount. the wrong preload is very bad. as for rod bolts for crist sake. just get someone with half an idea to build you a motor before it falls apart. you must have some pretty rubbish machinests up there if they cant tunnel bore a cast iron 6 cyl. IF IN DOUT, FOLLOW THE ARP MANUAL. not a "itl be good mate"