T04GTR

hey, what balancer is that?

yep. but dont forget to use a toyota (z418) or any filter with a relief valve in it as the block hasnt got one.... unless you get one of a 20 or 30.. one of a stagea is angles abit better for the front diff.

rb26 crank is around 400nm rb20/25 is around 180nm flywheel is about 120nm for all

this is very cool topic! anthony, if you could post up a dyno graph once you have done your final power tune on e85 vs pulp. our supra race car used to run on vpower racing but now has to use et 102. then we will take this to the ute racing board for a comparison. mayby next year we will run the utes on e85. that will give it some decent exposure. concidering we get almost the same tv as v8 supercars.... but yeah, pulp vs e85 comparison. looking forward to it! ps.. might have to get those indy blues after all heheh

what bb said. i have a trust 100mm one. gets hot at the track. evan my little 100x200mm ps cooler made the temp go up 5 degrees.

umm, id take 5 thou of that. for both. there gaps are a little big for a street motor.. somwhere around 15 and 18 is fine.

would be hiring a car trailer to come get it if all the boxes are ticked for the asked price!

you say "old scheme" wich one is it? dotars will not give out this info if its not in my name.... how long since it was landed? and what is the month and year of the car? the import approval will have all this info on it!! (including the "scheme" it was imported on..whats it say?

lol. just read article and my ngk one was the shittest.... oh wells (mine came with the ntk sensor not the bosch one but. )

for ACCURATE tuning i wouldnt go past the autronic. there is a reason why its 2k. but i use the ngk one. good for cleaning up the map on the road. if you do get one, make sure it has a 9-20:1 resolution with a linear 0-1v and a 0-5v aux output. as most ecus require this for exact afr targeting. the ngk one does 9-16:1 :s found that out after i got it lol. but does the job i need it to do big red digits and a simple air cal. has never dropped cal once. and is .1afr away from the autronic one.

so with the oil pump setup, im asuming the -10 on the front of the oil pan is conected to the oil pickup in the sump?

some secrets happening there ???? <_<

they are better. pads are easier to get. not saying that they are rubbish, just under the extreems of the utes racing they just barely cut it. but as a road caliper they would be faultless. they would benifit from some better pistons but.

ok, i will put it into perspective. the utes weigh min 1810kg. we have had temp strips on them and in the hard braking tracks, hidden valley,simonds plains etc etc. they have reached over 180 degrees. at wich point the seals just perish. once they have reached that temp, the caliper warps and you are forever replacing seals.you go to change pads and the knock back springs just push the piston out... but we did have a driver melt 2 pistons to a backing plate once . the utes are way underbraked. and and show the shortcomings that not many classes would experiance..

yes. i looked into the ap kit. but after working on the brute utes, i did not get them. the cp 5555 caliper is shit. pads are expencive. and they leak.we were advised to replace them every 12 months. just not a real good caliper. alot of people would not find these short comings on a road car, but a race car there not much better than willwood. the rotors are very good. but expencive. the strap drive is good, (been around a while now) but changing pads is a delicate exercise, they bend easily and get runout. ie: shudder. floating is always better. especally on rotors greater than 340~ mm evan a completly flat bolted disc will still warp under hard braking. also it puts alot of thermal stress on the disc and can lead to early cracking. the bigger the disc the worse it is. ive recently changed from fixed 355x32 alcon. to pfc direct drive 355x35. about the same money as ap. but the shizel. i have to get custom hats made to suit but will be alot better. the only real problem is that floating rotors on a road car ware out depending on there design. iether the holes in the rotors flog out or the slots in the hats flog out. i went the pfc option because there is no holes to ware out.

if your looking at bosch injectors youl see that they rate them at only 250kpa...... not the usual 300..

interesting! nice job getting them apart! i havent tried that yet... but you should go with the most "modern" lifter. nissan would be superseding parts for better ones. as there is the same part number for all nissan bucket hydrolic lifters. ie: ca,vg,rb. all the same and all interchangable. just the newer ones have been improved. (lets hope its not a cheaper one the go for!!!)

yeah, we dont want to re-invent the wheel here.... if only they would make a piston with a small dome.. problem solved

i use the plastiguage way. but you have to be carefull. the main problem is the crank spinning, and the dowls locating the conrods can grab and squash it more when you knock the caps off to check them... works great for mains but. oh and i use a dial indicator for thrust. feeler guages is just not as spot on... as you actually have to push on the crank to get the best reading. ie: 4 thou with feelers would be 5 or 6 or with a dial indicator. ps, getting the girdle to sit in the right spot takes a while with a plastic hammer moving it back and forth so the thrust bearings are both contacting the thrust side squarely. from experiance a well maintaned crank without scoring, given a light linnish tends to end up aroung the 1.5-1.7 range. but its imperative that you have the crank grubsrewed when its at the shop ,so you can actually clean it out properly before assembly.

yeah thats a propper oil/air seperator with a return to the sump. best way to do it. and best of all no big can telling you how bad your blowby is

lets not get confuzzled stevo, you are still using the standard oil pump, but with a scavenge pump filling a tank, with your standard oil pump sucking from the tank.. not quite a "drysump" setup. but halfway. still got the oil pump explosion issue :S

yes they run a dunlop 215-45-17. we run one and have LOTS of tyres building up n3ed to get rid of a few soon. same as the 24-64-18 cup tyres... needs them gone.

what revs?

yes, where !!!!!!! lol <_<

standard thrust of about 3-4thou mains around 2 and bigends around 1.5-2. if youve got a big hp and high rev motor, add .25 thou. this is using a standard wieght oil. ie 40-50 hot. the bigger the clearance the, the bigger the oil pump needs to be. also the bigger the clearance the less the oil will heat up all the engins ive built have 1.7~ bigend and 2~ mains and 4~ thrust. (with a light leverage when checking. not just pushing with your hand)