T04GTR

good idea but.. eg: go to the drags with some race fuel or octane booster and a few extra pounds and happy days..

pitty its not a subaru. in them if there is a knock sensor fault it pulls back timing 10 degrees while under any load..... lol

awsome. wind in some more timing aswell and watch her blow lol

no wrong.. you need to understand the mechanics of how it works and you will realise this is just because its a boost conrol issue. and nothing more. wasnt aware that a "gtrs bolt on" evan had an option for a external waste gate no wrong again.. dude learn how shit works THEN make a input on the issue. this ones free a bov has a spring yes? it has one chamber with said spring pushing the valve closed with the engine not running..... it has a chamber with a diaphram generaly twice the surface area of the valve its self..that is conected to the inlet manifold via a hose.. soooo that when the engine is running the chamber has manifold vacume acting on it.. and when its on boost it has boost acting on it. so whatever your engine is doing the bov has either boost or vacume controling it. now.. when an engine is on boost, it has BOOST and THE SPRING keeping the valve shut. ie: regardless of what boost you have the bov has BOOST and THE SPRING acting on the valve.... generaly at a 2/1 ratio. so with 10 psi on the valve diaphram it will require 20 pound to overcome the valve.. and thats without the spring!! so unless you have 30 pound boost in the piping and 10 in the manifold it wont leak. the spring adjustment is there SOLELY TO ALLOW THE VALVE TO BE CRACKED OFF ITS SEAT AT IDLE. to avoid "flutter" and "reversion" on airflow meter equiped engines. i use gtr bov on my engine. the bleed of at 12 pound, with no vac line attached. and with it ive no problems sealing 28 pound..... chris your problem can be 2 things, most common is the actual setting on the boost controler. (if its electronic) or the turbo is running out of puff. by looking at the graph id say is more the setting but could be the turbo reaching its limmit. cheers

thats ok, i got an ebay one that looks very similar for 250. its lasted 2 years so far.

r30 "goods"

screw the decals i wants the wide body super-silhouette kit!!

yeah will be close. someone shold just do it with a bango instead oneday. i dont use them. cant see whats wrong with the 2 drains in the block directly below that said drain . lol. anyway...... 7500kms later and with 6 litres in the stock sump still nothing in the catchcan

what is the differance in chamber volume with 26 vs 25?

heres what i did with anna's engine. all the lines are insulated and run down the back of the motor. the 90 degree fitting on the turbo was replaced for a 130 degree for a better fit. water lines are as follows, out of the standard position at the rear heater hose, thru the turbo and round the back into the throttle body out of the throttle body into the bottom hose nipple on the block.

well it would of been knocking badly if it was that starved of oil..... easy check is to pop the belt off and see if you can spin the motor.

yes lol. but on the contrary, 99% of jap drag gtr's use the standard coils.... well all the ones ive seen in rev-speed etc etc. im using mazda s5 13b turbo twin post coils with my autronic 500r cdi. no dramas running 1.1mm gap and 26 psi boost.

yeah. best to live with it, or find a low kay motor at the wreckers thats got water dammaged bores an pinch them out of thet.

mine did the opposite. and no they are not standard fitment for the 33gtr. a plain old rb30 one is the stocker. only the n1 come with it.

ok dude. you need to see if there is any back and forth movement in the turbo. not up and down. very common to have highflows shit a thrust bearing if still using standard oil lines and banjo bolts. 30mls is nothing to write home about. the symptoms you are describing is valve stem seals or turbine oil seal. just check the turbo again and let us know

5 puck, cerametalic and berry are all the same friction plates. basicly you should go with what your budget alows for.

r32 gtr gearbox partly dissasembled. smashed input shaft. suit rebuild or gearset upgrade. $250 r32gtr gearbox smashed 3rd. complete un-opened.. suit gearst upgrade or rebuild. still drives fine with no noises except no 3rd lol. $350

porsche cup car slicks. 24-64-18. aka 240-40-18. these are almost completly new. again used for only one practice session. new tread depth is 3.1mm the LOWEST on these is 2.4mm. so around 15% worn on average. $600 a set.(4) ($550 each new) 6 available total. (2 on hold.) also available is the rear. big ass gibson gtr size. (if you can fit 275's under the rear of you car these will fit.) 27-68-18. aka 270-45-18. also only about 15% worn. 350 a pair.

advan 048 semi slick race tyres. 20% worn. $385 a set. ($450 each new lol) 235-45-r17. medium/hard compound. these have been used for 1 practice session at barbagallo.

npc rebuilt (jacobson spec plates) os giken ts2bd. (not damperd anymore) the "g box" one has the dammaged spline. pulled out due to motor rebuild. drove fine but upgrded to a r3c.

yeah. i think russ, aka giant runs a 10 pump fuel i think. 450rwkw~

i personaly prefer the z418. has a relief valve. same dimensions as the z145

both have the same footprint.. 3/4 unf thread. same size o ring. bigger is better.

yeah, idealy you want the spring to be just stong enough to hold your boost. too stiff and it will spike. my garrett 42mm gate has a 9psi spring, it holds 26psi dead flat all the way with a profec b.

yeah, off the shelf aftermarket diff centre..