T04GTR

for it to sieze solid and not make noises, it will of spun a main bearing. the cambelt will snap at the wieght of the whole car. if its just the head siezing, its a pretty damn strong belt!! so no oil in the head.. all of a sudden. somethings blocked. does it have an oil cooler with remote filter?

nice newish orc 709. drives like standard to

spotted haltech R35GTR going up gips road at around 3pm today. with no plates on it lol

hey all, i cant post in this thread. rb30 conversions comes up with board error thingy, also fast reply aint on either..

stiffer ones will.

well on an engine i recently built.. i ditched the adjustable gear. and with some small head reworking it gained 40rwkw overnight.

FKNLOL!! amen.

if its noisy making a wiring sound its to tight.. end of story. regardles of brand. the little 5mm allen key is for LOOSENING it for removal. the spring is for the tenson.

im using par ones.. pretty good. billet 4340 one piece. again for the money, cant complain. and all the meat in the right spots.

spool rods looks pretty chunky. although abit of unused wieght in them. sact and eagle are similar too. either way for the money, who cars.. all capable of the same power. and all made from 2 seperate bits.. not a tru billet. but then again for the money, all the same.

wasnt aware you can "adjust" the clearance of a hydraulic lifter............. they are very hard to bleed, and most peeps dont really want to pay for new lifters. as above what anna said

3x r33 1000hp. depending on price and delivery time.

thats abit odd. i hope your turbo bolts havent come loose... also it will feel harsher. youve gone from jelly to hard rubber. lots more harshness.

how does one get around the r33 gtst 3 rib power steering belt

lol. thats the spirit

what about rb20?

all garrett everything except the housings..

if you had your oil on the gigh mark on the dipstick.. and booted it in first gear. it will surge. do that a few hundred times and the bearings will scuff up. a minimum of 1.25L extra is needed to combat this with a standard sump. (this is for a stock gtr running 15lbs.) to fix this propperly you will need: new crank new rod(s) new oil pump. $5 tomie oil restrictor all at a minimum. ps. your turbos will have to be removed and propperly cleaned out. ie: oil restrictor/bearing locator pulled out and then the whole lot flushed out. its a shit, but not every mechanical shop will tell you how bad they really do surge. or.. you could of picked up some shit thru an oil cooler or the old block having not been propperly cleaned. an easy way to see if its oil suply or debris is looking at the bearings. if only a few are rooted around the no 3 and 4 on the bigends and mains its debris if the bigends are only worn its the oil suply problem. 1 or 6 will of spun. and they will get better as you head towards the middle of the engine. the mains will look ok.

no.. its a garrett or more than likly a turbonetics one. either way its a garrett. does it have a alluminium plaque on it anywhere?

yeah, get a normal viscose complete diff. that is all. too hard. and they dont work properly anyway. there was a massive thread on theese a while ago.

ats recomend some "light deliberate slipping" to warm up the clutch proir to every thrashing. we installed a twin into a tt350z and apon reading the BOOKLET (was quite thick) for using it... i decided it was all abit to tricky. evan this one did slip on the first drive but seemed to grip up fine when warm.

so you used the better ventilated z31 discs? alot is similar, the struts would be. but the caliper bolt spacing is not the nice 100mm for 4 pot conversions and the like. if swapping anything make sure its a jdm one. not a aussie one.

hrmm, standard engine? yes you will have to get used to it. unless you replace the pistons. you have got ring flutter. very common on engines with "factory ring gaps" unfortunatly not much you can do. just get a custom catch can made that drains back to the sump. no matter what oil you use it will come out. have you checked the compression latly? doesnt take much to crack a ring land on the initial tune following the mods. also, check the turbo. i have seen worn bearings in them alow boost to leak past the compressor wheel and presurise the sump.. (happenend to me, filled the can in 5 mins up the old road once)

mayby expect about 270-290 with the said op6 housing. ie .63ar ish.. not the 25 one (.5ar ish)

that turbo on a er34 neo makes around 290rwkw at around 1.2-3 bar..