T04GTR

hrmmmmmm. mona i believe had the same problem. im asuming that your tuner is going off the "knock reading" from the power fc. you need to go to a tuner who is confidant. ie: one that listens to the engine with a chassis ear or the like, not the unreliable power fc knock reading. (if they are) how old is the engine? and is it modified at all?

yeah i dont know hey.. abit confusing

are you running aircon?

you cant rely on the standard gauge!! its not accurate. what your describing is lifter noise. why its noisy could be the not so good oil you are using. or there is excessive sludge in the oil galleries in the head. something has blocked their oil supply. ps jarrod83, your problem is bits of piston (melted aluminium) blocking the tiny little oil holes and valves in the lifters, or the check valve in the head is blocked and the head is starved of oil. have a mechanic install a good quality oil pressure gauge. and go from there.

just make sure your head shop does a good job of the seats and heights.

yes this is true. for the flow. make sure you use a filter with a relief valve in it. ie: most toyota ones. z 386 and z418

oh, rev limiters kill the pumps too. if you have a "soft cut" limiter its not as bad. but a hard cut. (power fc) wont be helping. your crank is ok. it just dont like the revs and or limiter. and if you are reving it past 7k id be getting a better balancer. a r33 gtr n1 one at least

rb20/25/30 is 180nm.. 26 is 460nm

this is a "sfi" balancer on a ford xr8 boss 260. it shows quite clearly why they break the oil pumps in these motors too : and this is how the group A rb26 got around the same problem, with a nice big balancer. this is a gibson motorsport engine :

this is a good picture from ati showing what your crank does when revved past redline and what the damper does to combat crank whip.

got harmonics??????? time for a better harmonic balancer..... the factory rb30 redline should be observed to avoid this. nothing wrong with the crank. just the harmonics of it killing it.

makes our laggy bumpy pain in the ass gtr's look abit pointless lol.. so good for standard!!

yes, was getting a hot choc when it happend. then it was called off due to a 13 degree track temp giving poor traction. the car looks repairable but or 800hp thru a 28x9 tyre lol.

yeah, killed my 26, badly. turbine wheel going back up thru the manifold into 4,5,6. 40" bore out needed

its 98.... it will aleays be differant each time you get it. besides, how many refineries are there in nsw?????

wow a whole 0.5% improvement lol........

oh, ps. it is a great power graph, but it doesnt seem to come on to boost very urgantly. not muck in a fast rize in torque. looks alot like a good v8 curve

Just trying to work out the crank.... from what i gatther its a rb30 crank.. offset ground. standard 30 stroke is 85mm with a bigend bearing size of 50mm~ this mated with sr20 rods, same bigend as rb25-26 of 48mm~ so.. .5mm offset ground off will reduse the stroke to 84mm with a 49mm size, then ground down to 48mm to suit the sr/rb bearing.. then using the 26 block with 20mm taller liners... rb26rods are 121mm sr20 rods are 136mm long, rb30 is 151 so the rods are half way in between. (sr20) that leaves the pistons. asuming they go all the way to the top of the block, with a flat top to give a decent comp ratio. (not to high) rb30 are A 32mm pin height where 26 are 30mm. so using 30 pistons would be about right i think.. anyone?

yeah. the mainshaft of the gearbox will break before the diff will.

yes it will. just make sure you have the corect bearing carrier and thrust bearing. (comes with it when you buy it knew)

just for referance.. the "nvh" is a result of either an unbalanced shaft or incorect driveline angle. with a one piece shaft the amout of angular diferance is around 2 degrees. (diff pinion/gearbox output shaft angle) has to be a paralelagram. the more pieces the shaft is the less acurate or critical the angle has to be to not induce vibrations over around 80kph. so.. with a 2 piece shaft you can be 4 degree out. 4 degrees on a 1 piece shaft would blurr the rear view mirror over 60kph lol. a one piece shaft is better. lighter and more direct. well suited to racing with dog engagement boxes etc etc. since our cars dont have a live axel you can make the angle very close. (shimming the box up or down.)

any comptant clutch shop, aka truck ones.. can machine the flywheel. they might charge abit but you need to do it. cant just throw in new plates with out squaring it all up first. it wont last half as long..

ANYTHING TILL THEY CATCH FIRE i spose. to many variables. generaly the 280x26mm disc they suport is the issue. so not much really, standard power at a track day with good tyres is there limit in my opinion.

so,, 44+17 = 61psi. at a minimum. so ya get the 023. the 040 is the same as a new gtr one anyway. in flow @ 3bar.

try sevan hills carpark. the most cars stolen out of any car park is australia. was up to 10 a day at one point. they evan have armed guards, but still they get knocked off...