T04GTR

yes you need to be patiant. rotate it a few times while levering on the cv housing like the others sugested. ps. rather than undoing all the ball joints. i find popping the boot offt th upright (lower side) and undooing the 22mm nut(the part that turns with the steering) the seperating the upright from the lower arm/hub is easier and quicker.

thats called oil surge mate. next time it does it. just stop acellerating. and it should leval out. basicly keep filling oil till it stops surging.

arriyyyigggan

interesting. looks familiar. whats a quarter worth?

and being that thin. i dought it would stop any significant heat.

for that money its worth a shot. nothing like actual titanium inserts but worth a shot. also alot of the heat is transferd thru radiation off the rotor.

255 easy. 265 really hard and expencice.

and the rear casing too

ps, i have gts4 diffs front and rear sitting in my bottom draw of my tool box that i wont be using any time soon.

yeah, sory i couldnt come help mout. i was pitting at indy. we won the round outrite but hehe

but.. could be ok. just not good to not use the whole disk.

yeah coolo. that rotor will crack as soon as it gets red

YEAH, dont for a second think that you will get someone to spend 6 hours and about 200 dollars worth of raw bends etc etc to do it for less than 700. just very time consuming. oh and btw. ally is the easist to do it in. id offer my services but im flat out at the moment.

nexan 3000. cheap but no good. refer sig

need any bits when stuff brakes let me know.. see sig

I will never know now

yes, nice result. but you are banned till the belt alignment is fixed bloody lowmounts hhahah

sik

5th option if you want to do trackwork. but you must get the upgraded input shaft.

damn. the saurus one only wieghts 1220kg eek

yeah, at then end of the day its the stopwatch thats the judge. nice videos. man shes abit louder now hehe also, i was studding the gearchangng. is there a revcut? also do you find going from 1st to second way harsher than anything else? (just getting to know mine now lol.) mayby its abit worn, but damn it sounds and feels like the diffs gonna come out of it when hitting first to second, not to mension the amount of force needed to push it in. you guys use a shortshifter?

yeah, if this one i got didnt pop up i would of gone helical and synchro. after a week of learning it ive got it 90% down. but.. you can change gear faster at normal cruising speeds with the synchro one. ie. 2000-4500rpm. (most street revs) one thing i found with the dog box is that at low revs you have to rev match it or its just a nasty hand jarring experiance. and not to mension hard on the diff/tailshaft. so cruising around is a chore. have to revmatch it and take time on upshifts. so basicly rev match it or change at 8 grand if you want it nice. but 1st to 2nd is a nasty change. no matter how hard and fast i jam it in it atill doesnt feel as nice as 3rd.4th,and 5th. anyone else have this issue? and is it because the 2nd gear has more dogs and is bigger?

they are all identical if from the same model.

this is a s3. observe the vent holes in the bellhousing

yeah. i have run a os twin, nismo twin, both damperd. nismo tripple and a r3c os. all without issue untill the power rose. my frst one(route6 ) stripped the input shaft gear.when changing to 3rd. and the second standard gearbox smashed all the teeth of 3rd after ONE QUICK change.