T04GTR

you mean the chunck missing? thats just from balancing. all turbos have it.

pitty the jz range has 92mm bore spacing and rb has 96.5mm..... same as m104 merc and L series. with a larger gap seperating the first and last 3 cyl.. so unless you get out your metal stamp and punch in 2jz over the rb26 your nowhere. cheers.

fair enough, each to there own. i just think using tape is abit dodgy, atleast use some heat shrink on the boots.. personaly if i get a car with a ignition issue, the first thing i do is gap the plugs after inspecting them for cracks. and no i will not "tape" a cracked spark plug lol. if that fails, swap them around. still no good. replace coils. that is the correct method. not that you cant try using tape, but when a customer is paying for your time to isolate a coil issue, i will not put "taped coils" on the jobcard. it will be coil ## is in need of replacement. and from the look of it ypou have a r34gtt, wich is renound for killing coils, inbuilt igniter ones. and when they die the car goes into limp mode. because the ecu detects a issue on the LOW voltage side. which tape will NOT FIX. try the tape if that works for you. but more often than not its the igniter side of things in the coil that is the issue. cheers.

you could get a racepac power distribution unit.

hows the vq35 swap going? i want a m35 now...

yes. sometimes they come loose. but it could be the upper arms being flogged out.with the wheel on, give it a wiggle and see if it moves in the arm.

what he said.

no. you will need longer rods. using the 25/26 rods will still be too short.

heres an idea, get some new coils unless the tape can fix a broken winding inside the coil.. you would be better off taping the plug off and covering the coil in epoxy.

yes. nothing wrong with it. you dont need a mil spec sender for oil pressure. for a map sensor yes, but fluids no probs.

aem do a cheaper 0-5 volt pressure sender. like 60 bucks on ebay. its just not as compact as the other style sensors. same plug etc etc. 24mm hex. being a linnear sensor it will be in the haltech sensor archive. aem 10 bar

do up as per arp specs, then get tunnel bored. if not then just use the factory bolts.

anyway, back on efr specifics.

so does 'garrett" have there own foundry? or is that honeywell. what about ihi? what about mitsubishi?. i would of thought that since borg warner turbos is kkk,schwitzer and colaboration with holset. that they would have a pretty solid manufacturing facility. time will tell. im sure it will sort its self out before garrett takes up the challenge. i wish they would just put there ball bearing cores in the sx range. kind of funny that the have the toughest and weakest range all at the same time. lol

standard rb26 head SOLD

all looks fine by the pics.

the injector bosses that go into the manifold should have o rings. the injectors should have o rings to. was it from "clean injection" off ebay? i got that kit. ps. you need to use a good sealing washer on the -6 fittings in the rail, as mine leaked.

speak to ross. he has a external pump setup in the pipeline. smash the limmiter all you want

380kw on 20psi went 365 on 25psi...... i measured back pressure on a -10 equiped rb2630 we had at work that just would not makle power over 18psi. on 14psi there was 25psi back pressure. on 18-20psi it had 35-40psi back pressure.... (30psi boost guage the needle wraped around to 0.. and our dyno can only read 30psi.

do they have an odometer? is can they be a "street legal" dash?

food for thought. on our race car. we went from gt 2860rs to gt2871 51mm (x2) and gained only 4kw. going from 3.0L to 3.5L it actually went backwards with more boost. wich to me says the thurbine wheel is already at a choke point..

i just prefer the way the haltech is set up. they have taken all the good bits from alot of the more established ecus and combined them into 1 ecu. as far as support goes. a sydney distributer i have tried to contact is never available. as far as featurs go, the haltech has all you could really need. it can be tuned in ve mode or injection time mode. just a easy as pie ecu to get set up and tuned. drilling out a factory ecu case and retrofitting a whole circuit board into it is abit dodgy. its not a nistune....

anything red or hydrolic rated is fine.

haltech actually has sequential ignition, where as the vipec plug in runs batch fire.. haltech has more bells and whissles. and is quite easy to tune. + support is very good. where as vipec support is non existant ive found. you can run afms or map sensor with the haltech.

its abit more then an idle valve and retarded timing to actually get it to work.. and audi quattro "umluft"